We're mostly using damper rod forks which have no valving, just a couple of holes for oil to flow through.
Because of this, they only work 'properly' at a specific rate of movement (how quick they compress or extend)
Hitting a 20ft long 4"high undulation at 40mph doesnt feel as bad as hitting a 1/4" high raised white line or expansion joint at same speed because fork compression/movement is 'slower' in first case even though its moving much graeter distance
If forks are diving too much you probably need stiffer springs, then thicker oil 'may' work properly.
Personally, I'm having great luck with 5w/40 full synthetic multigrade motor oil, thinner than stock (which is usually around 10wt)
Changing to thicker oil may help prevent brake dive but only because the forks in effect, hydraulic lock during rapid movement. This means they can (and do)'hydraulic' during normal operation if you hit any sort of bump. (known as 'packing down')
It happens when forks can't extend before next bump comes along.
using 20wt oil with stock springs is generally a real bad idea unless your doing mods to damper rods for a specific fork acceleration. Except for the cost, emulators are the best modification you can make (but I don't think they are available for forks smaller than 35mm dia?)
PJ