cb250nproject
If you can make it better do so
Well she’s still a bit chunky but far better than she was.
Now to sort out the engine
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Now to sort out the engine
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FRANKENHONDA II the 1982 DOHC CB 750F2 Build
- Thread starter cb250nproject
- Start date
Popeye SXM
Also used for MX
That's a BIG rear disc but much looking better now. Keep up the great work, looking forward to seeing you ridding this beauty
cb250nproject
If you can make it better do so
Popeye SXM said:
The OEM disc is mammoth, it’s pretty much as good as it will ever get now.
I’ll give the garage a clean then get back into this motor... I’m really looking forward to hearing kick over for the first time
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cb250nproject
If you can make it better do so
So I probably should have picked up on this earlier but all the cam tensioners are cracked and perished.
There was a part of me that was about to put them back in but the motor is already in parts, so if I’m going to upgrade them now is the time to do it.
I got onto Brent Hyde from Vince and Hyde Racing over in NZ I purchased the full kit;
(VHR) B cam chain tensioner
(VHR) Curved guide
AHM cam chain tensioner
She was more than OEM, but all their stuff is race proven and should last the life time of the bike.
It’s going to be about a week before the parts arrive. I figure why rush it now right may as well take the time and spend a few extra $ to do it right.
I’m going to grab myself a few wire brushes to help remove the crappy paint job off the gearbox. See if I can’t re prep it to paint it up again
Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
There was a part of me that was about to put them back in but the motor is already in parts, so if I’m going to upgrade them now is the time to do it.
I got onto Brent Hyde from Vince and Hyde Racing over in NZ I purchased the full kit;
(VHR) B cam chain tensioner
(VHR) Curved guide
AHM cam chain tensioner
She was more than OEM, but all their stuff is race proven and should last the life time of the bike.
It’s going to be about a week before the parts arrive. I figure why rush it now right may as well take the time and spend a few extra $ to do it right.
I’m going to grab myself a few wire brushes to help remove the crappy paint job off the gearbox. See if I can’t re prep it to paint it up again
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stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
cb250nproject said:
These are parts that you don't want to fail!
Crazy
cb250nproject
If you can make it better do so
Yea I’d hate to get her running only to have something like this catastrophically fail whilst riding.
Plus I’m taking this opportunity to respray the motor properly I’ve done everything bar the gearbox.
I’ll post an update once that parts complete. The last few days have been 38, 38 and 36 and I’m using a small garage oven to bake the pieces after spraying. She’s getting pretty warm in the shed.
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Plus I’m taking this opportunity to respray the motor properly I’ve done everything bar the gearbox.
I’ll post an update once that parts complete. The last few days have been 38, 38 and 36 and I’m using a small garage oven to bake the pieces after spraying. She’s getting pretty warm in the shed.
Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
cb250nproject
If you can make it better do so
I used header paint that needs to be cured at 120c so even at 38 it’s not enough to cure the paint. It drys but still remains soft
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cb250nproject
If you can make it better do so
Brodie said:
It is unheard of.
Although I believe today will be 36 with thunderstorms, which is more typical of Melbourne weather.
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cb250nproject
If you can make it better do so
So I’ve been in the shed trying to get a bit done before the cam tensioners arrive, which I hope will be any day now.
So bit by bit I’ve been respraying the components of the engine, first was the cam cover. I did all the parts in a primer then final coat was with aluminium finish.
Then I masked up the head, masking is more time consuming than the spraying itself I’ve found but it’s well worth the effort.
Unfortunately the size of my garage oven meant I did half bakes. This took twice as long because I’d have to wait for the part to cool down then spin it around.
So with the cylinders I ended up grinding the broken fins down on both sides so it was at least symmetrical. I know some of you are probably cringing but for the money and time lost on the build, I went with this option. To be honest I don’t think it looks that bad.
Then once the grinding was done, I masked it up and gave it the double bake.
Then I removed the chain guard, rotor stator cover, clutch cover, oil pump, oil filter, timing cover and sump before masking up the gearbox to spray it.
I ran a magnet through the oil and found just a few specs of metal I’m not sure if it’s anything to worry about.
I have set my oven up under the gearbox and have been out in the shed with the heat gun on the top parts of the gearbox.
When I went to the shop to pick up a oil filter I ended up seeing a helmet. I’ve always liked the bell Bullit helmet but unfortunately my misshapen head doesn’t fit into them.
I ended up seeing a Scorpion helmet in plain white. I thinking maybe my bro can make me some matching decals on the helmet
Tomorrow I’ll put the new pistons in, replace the oil filter, then polish up the side covers. Then I’ll be waiting for the cam tensioners and then I’ll have to reshim the head.
This is something I think I’m going to need help with as I think I bent 2 exhaust valves and don’t want to risk doing it again. Rex from T-Rex racing said it could be done with the head of the engine but I’m not 100% on it.
Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
So bit by bit I’ve been respraying the components of the engine, first was the cam cover. I did all the parts in a primer then final coat was with aluminium finish.
Then I masked up the head, masking is more time consuming than the spraying itself I’ve found but it’s well worth the effort.
Unfortunately the size of my garage oven meant I did half bakes. This took twice as long because I’d have to wait for the part to cool down then spin it around.
So with the cylinders I ended up grinding the broken fins down on both sides so it was at least symmetrical. I know some of you are probably cringing but for the money and time lost on the build, I went with this option. To be honest I don’t think it looks that bad.
Then once the grinding was done, I masked it up and gave it the double bake.
Then I removed the chain guard, rotor stator cover, clutch cover, oil pump, oil filter, timing cover and sump before masking up the gearbox to spray it.
I ran a magnet through the oil and found just a few specs of metal I’m not sure if it’s anything to worry about.
I have set my oven up under the gearbox and have been out in the shed with the heat gun on the top parts of the gearbox.
When I went to the shop to pick up a oil filter I ended up seeing a helmet. I’ve always liked the bell Bullit helmet but unfortunately my misshapen head doesn’t fit into them.
I ended up seeing a Scorpion helmet in plain white. I thinking maybe my bro can make me some matching decals on the helmet
Tomorrow I’ll put the new pistons in, replace the oil filter, then polish up the side covers. Then I’ll be waiting for the cam tensioners and then I’ll have to reshim the head.
This is something I think I’m going to need help with as I think I bent 2 exhaust valves and don’t want to risk doing it again. Rex from T-Rex racing said it could be done with the head of the engine but I’m not 100% on it.
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Attachments
stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
cb250nproject said:
It's barely noticeable ...
Crazy
I actually like it with fins cut down there. Looks good and definitely a better solution than paying to have them welded up IMO.
To shim the valves you should be able to just bolt your cams down, point the lobes so they are exactly opposite of the shim and bucket, then measure with feeler gauge. You'll then need to measure what shim you have in each bucket (that needs to be adjusted) and add a thicker or thinner shim based on that.
To shim the valves you should be able to just bolt your cams down, point the lobes so they are exactly opposite of the shim and bucket, then measure with feeler gauge. You'll then need to measure what shim you have in each bucket (that needs to be adjusted) and add a thicker or thinner shim based on that.
cb250nproject
If you can make it better do so
advCo said:
Thank you advCo my good man I shall give this a go, at least this way I don't have to worry about bending the valves "again".
Now I will ever so carefully try to piece her back together before getting out the buffing wheel to try and make some of the side covers bling. I will be super stoked if i can get the motor all back together and better yet back into the frame.