Handlebar knurling problem

[BenJammin865]

I am doing a cafe' racer build with a '73 Kawasaki F7 175 and I am having a little trouble finding handlebars for it. I found some on Amazon that are extremely affordable and all of the measurements match up, except for the knurling. The knurling on the Amazon bars is further apart (4.5" from outside edge to outside edge, 3" inside to inside) than on the stock ones (3.5" and 2"). Could I still use them or would this be a problem? Could I use a dremel tool to put knurling in the correct spots on the new bars? Help is appreciated.

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

Knurling on bars is not groves, it's raised ridges. Use a cold chisel to make your knurls.

 

[notlob]

AS Alpha says the knurling is raised, a knurling tool deforms the metal to give a wider diameter on handle bars so that when clamped it flattens slightly and provides a better grip to stop them moving. Removing metal with a dremel is not a good idea.

 

[BenJammin865]

Chances are I'll keep looking until I find some that fit, I plan on hitting up a salvage yard this week. Otherwise, I've thought about taking the stock handlebars and removing the cross bar, shortening them a bit, and installing them upside down in a low forward position. This will just be an experiment/last resort if I can't find any at a salvage yard.

 

[Scruffy]

Shim them. Cut a couple pieces out of a beer can, set the bar in the risers, put the strips on the bar, add the riser caps. You'll catch enough knurling to lock them in fairly well. Yes it's cheap, yes it's cheating, yes it works. Except on ape hangers, those I pin in place with stainless steel self tapping screws. On low bars shimming works just fine.