HELP! Do CB175 +2.00 Pistons/Rings Exist?

And yeah, to be honest, a new set of sleeves and a new set of rings for stock pistons sizes will run way cheaper and don't require any math.
 
Can the sleeves be separated from the cylinder fins? I thought it was essentially a single unit.

I'm going to get my mechanic guy to take some measurements to see how deep the gouge is. At most I hope that a 1mm overbore and larger pistons/rings will cut it. What kind of performance losses will I be seeing if the gouge is just sliiightly deeper than half a mil (.5 mil on each side of the diameter)?
 
Put jugs in oven (not your wifes or moms), heat to 400 for a while. If the sleeves don't drop right out, they will pop out with the slightest use of a rubber mallet. They come out the top, obviously.
 
Wow, I had no idea.

I just want to stop and say thanks to you guys for all of thins information. I have no clue what I would do without this forum as a 1st time builder.

I'm not seeing any sleeves for sale separate from the fins. I'm seeing a NOS cylinder brand new but has a repaired cracked fin for 250 with free shipping. 50 bucks for new rings would put me at the same cost as having my cylinders bored with new rings and pistons. Is that a decent price even with a repaired fin?

With $100 bore cost and $180 for new pistons and rings, assuming I could get the cb200 to work somehow (at the cheapest scenario), it looks like buying all new cylinders is my best option.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-HONDA-SL175-SL-175-CL175-CL-175-CB175-CB-175-CA175-CA-175-OEM-CYLINDER-JUG-/360466167938?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ed753882&vxp=mtr

Here they are.
 
Just ask around here or elsewhere if someone has cb175 sleeves in reasonable nic (only needs a hone, whatever) for sale.
 
I posted a WTB posting.

What are your thoughts on this set? 30 bucks....looks like the walls are in really good shape. Just needs a soda blast on the outside.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/73-Honda-CL175-CL-175-Scrambler-cb-engine-cylinders-jugs-/310733330922?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48592659ea&vxp=mtr
 
Yeah, I PM'd him for confirmation on standard bore, condition..etc. Can't beat that for 30 bucks.

Thanks for the info mlinder.
 
As an aside since you're no longer looking at the 200 pistons
They won't work in a 175 without a lot of work the pins are different daimeter the crown heights different the stroke is the same between the 175 and 200 but the cylinders are taller
 
Thanks to your guys' help, I bought a 30 dollar set of cylinders on eBay and a new piston/ring set for a +1 setup. I'm going to yank my scored sleeve from my cylinders, yank a sleeve from the one I ordered and replace. Then I'll bore over 1mm, install the pistons and rings and off we go!! I hope...that was the cheapest but best route.

You guys rock!
 
Yeah. The set come with new ones. It was a Honda set but from Thailand...still makes me nervous.

To clarify, these are 175 pistons :)

Pretty much a whole new top end because my camshaft was just replaced right before I bought it.
 
Another aside,
The correct oil rings on the 175/200's are One piece not 3 piece. it was a 3 piece ring failure ( caused by either the ring itself or the installer) that brought about your headaches
I've seen a few threads recently of collapsed 3 piece rings in smaller Honda twins
The oem rings should all have different profiles and a top, its important to get both the order and which way up the rings are as well as the gap spaceing @ 120 deg
 
Simo, can you explain what you mean about different profiles? Sorry, I know the basics.

Also, by 120 degrees I assume you mean crank position? The set I ordered have a 1-piece oil set as opposed to the 3 piece kind. I'm relieved about that.
 
1sttimer said:
Simo, can you explain what you mean about different profiles? Sorry, I know the basics.

Also, by 120 degrees I assume you mean crank position? The set I ordered have a 1-piece oil set as opposed to the 3 piece kind. I'm relieved about that.
Click to expand...

By profile he means shape of the top edge of the ring
a la:
RingInstallation1.jpg


And by 120 degrees he means when you install the rings stagger the ring gaps by 120 degrees or so so that theres no easy path for gasses to bypass the rings.
 
Oook so you're talking about staggering the open part of the ring 120 degrees from the middle ring so their openings are not lined up allowing a passage?
 
1sttimer said:
Oook so you're talking about staggering the open part of the ring 120 degrees from the middle ring so their openings are not lined up allowing a passage?
Click to expand...

Right. Looking down at the top of the piston, the first gap would be at 12 o'clock, the second at 4 o'clock, and the third gap would be at 8 o'clock.
 
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