HELP!!!

CJT

CJT

New Member
My newly "finished" cl360 bobber is giving me fits! starts, idles and runs great! until it warms up, then popping, mis-firing and then dies and wont start again until it has thoroughly cooled. then starts right up idles fine, etc. This has got to be a no brainer that is beyond me, any help from those of you that have been working on these bikes for a while? Many thanks in advance!
 
You have spray either ? When it happens, spray a little ether into the carbs (A LITTLE). If it starts up, you have a fuel issue. If not, ignition...

We can go from there.....

Cause it can be vacuum leaks, float levels, vapor lock, overheated coils, valves out of adjustment, timing, the list goes on...You need to narrow the focus a little and eliminate things one by one...
 
It's probably not happening because it "warms up".... it is far worse. It is most likely popping , misfiring and dies because it is running dangerously lean and is seriously over heated.

I'm not saying it couldn't be a fuel supply issue to the carbs or a vacuum leak etc, I say this from looking at another of your posts and just eye-balling your exhaust and filters on the internet:

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=51454.msg573627#msg573627

CJT said:
Carb rebuild kit I ordered came with smaller jets than stock and that seemed to be a good match to the open baffled exhaust and pod air filters.
Click to expand...

I'm not claiming to know what jets you have in there or what you should use, however if they are smaller than stock, you will be extremely lean with that exhaust and filter pods. By the way, those pods are at least partially blocking your ports on the intake side of the carb due to the rubber shoulder inside ...


just sayin.... :D
 
Dean J. Thanks! yes jets are smaller than stock, thinking that with the open pods and open/baffled exhaust that smaller jets was a good thing(?) the reason I think (thought) it is running rich is that is ran(before) worse when warmed up and significant soot in exhaust pipes. wouldn't be any soot if lean right? don't get me wrong I am not arguing with you just trying to get it straight in my head.
 
ok. so confirm or rule out fuel issue with starter spray. trim lower 1/3 of inside boot on pods to reduce interference with idle port. Thanks Dean J!
 
Instead of looking inside your exhaust for soot, google "plug chops"

Let your plugs tell you the general a/f mixture by evaluating their color / condition at idle, off throttle, 1/4, 1/5, wot etc. Plugs are cheap (ish) You have the pilot/slow circuit, needle, needle jet, main jet air jets etc.. all doing different things yet also working together.

Also, I do not advocate pods on CV carbs, ( insert argument in favor of stock air box here ) however you might look at something that does not directly obstruct laminar flow ( that chrome cap on the back of your filter) also the emgo filters do not "filter" much. Hold one up to bright sunlight and see the massive holes ... you want to filter microns, not millimeters :D
 
DeanJ said:
Instead of looking inside your exhaust for soot, google "plug chops"

Let your plugs tell you the general a/f mixture by evaluating their color / condition at idle, off throttle, 1/4, 1/5, wot etc. Plugs are cheap (ish) You have the pilot/slow circuit, needle, needle jet, main jet air jets etc.. all doing different things yet also working together.

Also, I do not advocate pods on CV carbs, ( insert argument in favor of stock air box here ) however you might look at something that does not directly obstruct laminar flow ( that chrome cap on the back of your filter) also the emgo filters do not "filter" much. Hold one up to bright sunlight and see the massive holes ... you want to filter microns, not millimeters :D
Click to expand...

Yes trash the cheap pods. I'm going to suggest Uni filters cause that's what I have and love them. Others use K & N. I can not speak for them I have not used them. I would def agree you are way to lean.
 
CJT said:
My newly "finished" cl360 bobber is giving me fits! starts, idles and runs great! until it warms up, then popping, mis-firing and then dies and wont start again until it has thoroughly cooled. then starts right up idles fine, etc. This has got to be a no brainer that is beyond me, any help from those of you that have been working on these bikes for a while? Many thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Isn't that how 360s are supposed to run?
 
not helpful Trek97! and as it happens not helpful DeanJ! I trimmed the pod to allow for reduced restriction to the idle port and now the pod falls off!! and as it happens the pod grommet does NOT restrict the idle port after all!!! wish I had checked this before I took DeanJ's word for it! now in addition to the trouble I have I also need a new pod filter!! will know in the future to always take your advice with a grain of salt DeanJ.
 
CJT said:
not helpful Trek97! and as it happens not helpful DeanJ! I trimmed the pod to allow for reduced restriction to the idle port and now the pod falls off!! and as it happens the pod grommet does NOT restrict the idle port after all!!! wish I had checked this before I took DeanJ's word for it! now in addition to the trouble I have I also need a new pod filter!! will know in the future to always take your advice with a grain of salt DeanJ.
Click to expand...

Unless you have an unusual set of cheap pods, it definitely does
 
Ok heres the answers your looking for. whether you want to hear them or not.

your pods are crap. If you dont want to re-install the stock filter boxes, get uni filters and send carbs to crazypj so he can tweak-n-tune em.

your jetting is completely wrong. Its running too rich mid range rpm (3500-5000 cutting out and sputtering) then goes to lean at 5500 (popping, excessive over heating) OOPS I forgot you installed 100 main secondaries. Its lean...WAY TOOO LEAN. so it probably runs decent midrange rpm, then goes lean at 4500 and up. So, when you hit 50-55 mph she is already lean and getting hot. If you shoot for 70+mph she probably has barely enough fuel to run at all. I wouldnt be surprised to hear you have a fried valve or two.

the reason it dies and wont start until its cooled off, its probably boiling fuel in the gas lines due to the cheap thin clear lines and their proximity to CL high pipes. (watch for bubbles forming in lines)

and double check your float heights ( but this wont matter until you change out the jets.) And while your at it, sync them.

Didnt we discuss most of this about a month ago?
here...
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=51454.msg573627#msg573627
 
and your short CL open exhaust is robbing her of low end torque. and it probably pisses off the neighbors.
 
Thank you to all. yes we did discuss this about a month ago, and I thought I had the issue resolved. put over 100 miles on the bike without issue. now the current issue. So I do appreciate the input, sorry if I got a little snarky Dean. just frustrated. Will check out the suggested links and go back to the basics. please don't stop making suggestions, I obviously need the help
 
No worries, now please, please do back through the links and do everything step by step with zero shortcuts. I look forward to your post in another month showing a vid of a properly set up and tuned bike... :D
 
You want 38~40 pilots and 105~125 secondary main jets
Primary mains should be 68 but 70's will work after I mod some things, otherwise, it runs rich
Pipes are too short and need to end behind shocks, maybe fit some extensions with 'fishtail's'?
 
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