Honda CB200 coil working or not?

Ok I will check out that electrical stuff. Also I got some size 15 pilot jets and the plugs are no longer black but they are still rich I believe. As I have found out 15 is actually the smallest size they make. So what could be causing richness beyond what the carb can adjust for. The mixture screw wants to be more than three turns out. But the carb doesn't work like that. Hills are better slightly but still suck. Top speed isn't where it should be. And I also get pretty bad gas mileage, only 80 miles to reserve. I guess I am still at a loss as to what it is.
 
How old is your battery? My CB350 does real funny/strange things when the battery isn't holding a charge. It had horrible carb related symtoms. I opened the carbs up like 15 times and couldn't fix the broblem. Then I canged the battery and everything was working fine. It was very frustrating.
 
That's sounds eerily similar to what is going on with mine. The guy I bought the bike from said it was new and it looks new but I wouldn't trust that because he also said a bunch of other stuff that was total lies. Plus I would hope that the shop I have been taking it to would have noticed that but who knows. Is there a way to test if a battery is good from home? That information is probably in the electrosport pdf. right? I have noticed my battery "boiling" but supposedly that's ok right?
 
caveman592 said:
That's sounds eerily similar to what is going on with mine. The guy I bought the bike from said it was new and it looks new but I wouldn't trust that because he also said a bunch of other stuff that was total lies. Plus I would hope that the shop I have been taking it to would have noticed that but who knows. Is there a way to test if a battery is good from home? That information is probably in the electrosport pdf. right? I have noticed my battery "boiling" but supposedly that's ok right?

Try to swap it for a mantenance free modern battery. Something that wont boil...
 
m511y said:
Try to swap it for a mantenance free modern battery. Something that wont boil...

good idea, but remember to upgrade the stock Rectifier and regulator for a solid state type. They are around 60$.
The stock system will fry a ion or lipo battery.
 
Oh man I really need to take some time to go over that electronics test sheet. You guys are making me want to go replace all the electronics on my bike. I will work on that tomorrow hopefully.
 
So I had lower than 13.5v on the if I remember correctly it read 12.3v or something close to that. So how do I go about the next step because my RR are two seperate things what wires do I need to check? Should I still be looking for a red wire?
 
caveman592 said:
Well I am thinking its electrical because the two sides of the bike run slightly differently. It won't idle reliably, has no power, can't take hills, spark seems weak and sometimes it revs to 2 or 3 k rpm when I turn it on. My plugs are white when I pull them. I have been in the process of jetting vm20s. Maybe I just need to go leaner? I actually just discovered some issues with the throttle cable but I haven't ridden it since I worked on it. That might fix some issue but it really feels like I am running an electrical issue. Although maybe cable problems are a bigger issue than I think. I guess I am kind of stuck over all. The only thing I can really think to do is just go leaner. The coil is probably good based on what I have seen in texasstar and zeke's build and I am just not seeing the real problem.
Have you checked the compression? Make sure you use wide open throttle when you do. Remember if it sucks it probably doesn't suck...
 
Hey Texasstar I have checked my compression in the past and it was good. And I had a shop check it and do a leakdown and they said it was all good but all of that was a couple months ago. I can always check it again. And that was the reference video from your cb200 build that I have used on mine. And that's how I got the numbers I did.

I tried to ride it around today but it died on me every time I let out the clutch. It would rev fine in neutral and with the clutch in but as soon as I went to pull away from a stop it died on me. Don't really know what's up with that. I am assuming it's because I didn't let it warm up for the half-hour or so it takes to get it warm. I think I might just throw in the towel and take it to a new shop because I don't know what I am really doing and I have tried all kinds of jetting and electrical stuff. Also my old shop might suck and finding problems too. Any ideas?
 
What were the compression numbers. We need plenty of squeeze... Fine to a shop that doesn't know that our cb's need to be 150-170 may be a problem. Don't give up! You can do it. How do you have your pet cock set? We leave ours on reserve. Have you tried running it on reserve? We changed to see through fuel line. It is a really simple solution to make sure your carbs are getting fuel. Have you checked the screen in the bottom of the petcock? We also run dual filters.
 
Lets make sure we are getting plenty suck and squeeze...then we will address the bang. Do you have the stock carbs? If so pull the mikunis off...and put the keihins back on. if they are Chinese mikunis you will have a problem tuning them for our cb from what I have read.

Get the compression numbers and we will go from there...
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    179.2 KB · Views: 262
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    265.1 KB · Views: 1,118
I let it warm up for a long time today and did a plug chop on the jet needle 1/2 throttle and it looked lean so I moved the clip one down. It seemed to run better and it gave me more revs in high gear and improved hill ability but it doesn't run right still. And it still dies on me as I come to a stop. Air screw at 2 1/2 turns out.

I will check compression again. And I am pretty sure that they aren't Chinese mikunis. I bought them from a parts dealer/shop here in Oregon. And they are identical to all the other vm20s I have seen on this sight. So I hope there good. I do have the stock carbs but the reason I had to change to the vm20s was because I couldn't get leaner pilot jets for it. And I needed the leaner pilot jets because it would not idle even after sorting the electrical issues. Although now that the mikunis are having the same problem that makes me feel like I missed something electrical. That if fixed would mean that I could still use the stock carbs. I mean it's weird right that you can use the stock carbs easy, while if I did that my motorcycle would run so rich it wouldn't idle.

It runs on both on and resrve. The tank is clean. I derusted the tank and and rebuilt the petcock. I also have clear line and fuel flows freely. I will get compression readings tomorrow.
 
caveman592 said:
I let it warm up for a long time today and did a plug chop on the jet needle 1/2 throttle and it looked lean so I moved the clip one down. It seemed to run better and it gave me more revs in high gear and improved hill ability but it doesn't run right still. And it still dies on me as I come to a stop. Air screw at 2 1/2 turns out.

I will check compression again. And I am pretty sure that they aren't Chinese mikunis. I bought them from a parts dealer/shop here in Oregon. And they are identical to all the other vm20s I have seen on this sight. So I hope there good. I do have the stock carbs but the reason I had to change to the vm20s was because I couldn't get leaner pilot jets for it. And I needed the leaner pilot jets because it would not idle even after sorting the electrical issues. Although now that the mikunis are having the same problem that makes me feel like I missed something electrical. That if fixed would mean that I could still use the stock carbs. I mean it's weird right that you can use the stock carbs easy, while if I did that my motorcycle would run so rich it wouldn't idle.

It runs on both on and resrve. The tank is clean. I derusted the tank and and rebuilt the petcock. I also have clear line and fuel flows freely. I will get compression readings tomorrow.
I put this video up for you. This is 100 jets in our Cb200 and she won't even hit the redline. We were 1500 rpms short of our redline!!!! Lucky was so rich it didn't even register on the graph.

http://youtu.be/xmOjumZerGM
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    236 KB · Views: 720
Anything below 114psi and she will not run right. Hang in their caveman your gal is just playing hard to get. Follow the procedure above and it will tell you where you are.
 
http://youtu.be/ntNw5dj6DtA now watch what happens when we are jetted slightly rich with 88 jets. We are running open cl pipes. Watch how fast she gets to 11k. This is after we addressed everything surrounding BANG! Compare the 3rd gear speed difference between the two videos. 15mph and 3000 rpm difference. Now we are running a racing timing chain and racing valve springs so I don't recommend you try this with stock components. When she is jetted right it is sucking and squeezing and bangin' and blowing baby! When we took her home we put the 85 jets in her and ran 82 in 4th gear...with 215 lbs on her back.
 
New issues maybe?

Thanks for the info. I won't give up it's keeping me busy so I don't fall back into a depression with the fibromyalgia. Compression on left 112 no oil and 135 with oil. The right is 112 with no oil and 137 with oil. I also did a leak down although it may have not been done right but the leak down was good maybe 10% loss. But again I don't know if I did the leak down right but the compression test is good. I also made sure there was spark on both sides and there is. But interestingly only the exhaust gases on the left cylinder got hot the right side was basically blowing cold air. Each side also put out different pressures at the muffler. There is also some misfiring and I am assuming that's mostly coming from the right side. To me it seems like the left side fires every time but the right is not.

So with those compression numbers I am looking at ring and valve issue, correct? And/or a top end rebuild? What do you think? I will get her running perfectly one day :). I should probably make a build thread out of it at some point.
 
Re: New issues maybe?

caveman592 said:
Thanks for the info. I won't give up it's keeping me busy so I don't fall back into a depression with the fibromyalgia. Compression on left 112 no oil and 135 with oil. The right is 112 with no oil and 137 with oil. I also did a leak down although it may have not been done right but the leak down was good maybe 10% loss. But again I don't know if I did the leak down right but the compression test is good. I also made sure there was spark on both sides and there is. But interestingly only the exhaust gases on the left cylinder got hot the right side was basically blowing cold air. Each side also put out different pressures at the muffler. There is also some misfiring and I am assuming that's mostly coming from the right side. To me it seems like the left side fires every time but the right is not.

So with those compression numbers I am looking at ring and valve issue, correct? And/or a top end rebuild? What do you think? I will get her running perfectly one day :). I should probably make a build thread out of it at some point.
Way to go caveman! Now you are talking! Now you know what she is doing! She is suffering from depression compression. Working on a bike is not only a metaphysical experience but it can be transcendent even spiritual and sometimes take you to somewhere outside of your pain. We won't let you sink into depression but the best way to stay out of it yourself is to help someone else. And she needs you!

So it is time to start a build string...get the manual... read it and start the build. But to build you need to break her down...and see what is going on in the inside and the way we do that is by examination...hang in there you are in for a journey!

If we can build a bike...anybody can and so can you! So let's see what will get you more squeeze! Hone, rings, valve job...no problem! The measurements will tell you what you need. Go read How to build a functional cafe racer by Sonreir and Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow by Kop! Congrats!
 
Back
Top Bottom