KZ 400 Carbs Overflow

2_DONE_THE_TON

2_DONE_THE_TON

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hi!

i had an airleak at the right carb boot of my KZ 400 1979.
the carb was tuned with that airleak (it was really hard to find a good and new boot).
the mechanic put the mixture screw on right cylinder nearly all the way out and on the left side all the way in.

now i replaced the right boot.no airleak left.

so heres the problem:

i put both mixture screws left and right in and 1,5 spins out....i thought this is standard configuration.

i tried to start the kz but after some time (she just started without choke)she died.
gas was coming out of the overflows of the bowls.
float levels should be fine,she never had these problems last season before we replaced the boot.
so i guess its pretty much a non lean condition :-)

question:i think ive done smthing wrong in the standard configuration...help please!


esa7unaz.jpg
 
You are right on the 1.5 turns out, but if fuel was overflowing, then maybe the choke is stuck on? or pne of the flots is sticking...
 
Could just be some crap has settled into the float needle valves. Drain the carbs, then turn the fuel back on. Draining the carbs will make the floats go all the way down, and open the needle valves completely. Then when you turn on the fuel, it will (hopefully) flush out the needle valve.
 
AW: KZ 400 Carbs Overflow

are the 1.5 turns of the screw from the very end of the thread?from which point of the screw thread do i make the the 1.5 turns?

ill check my bowls...the bike was sitting for approx 3months over winter...fuel was drained but gas gets sticky even after 1month.

ill try the 'flushing' method!
 
1.5 turns, back, from when they just start to bite and you can feel them seat tight as you turn it in.

float hight should be 26mm +- 2.5mm rough guide...

if your float boles were dry, i would say, it needs to be stripped and given a good clean out.
 
AW: KZ 400 Carbs Overflow

today i tried it again with the standard carb settings....the bike tried to start then died after a few seconds...what i now realised that the tailight and the license plate lughing was flickering HARD during the starting process....maybe electrical issue?

the starter turns...whats strange too that the kickstarter wont build up enough pressure to the 'sweet spot'.i just hear the sound of the enigine breather sucking air.
 
AW: KZ 400 Carbs Overflow

nothing done on the motor

air leak removed (new carb boots)

oil leak removed (clutch pushrod seal and sprocket seal)

new automotive fuse box, old glass fuses were replaced by new modern ones
 
Questions....

1. Do you have air pods on it? or factory filters?
2. Did you check the float height?
3. The reason the back light flickers, is down to the amps when cranking.. does it have electric start?
4. Have you tested you regulator & rectifier?
5. Not sure what you are saying about the kick start. if you had the side casing off, sometimes, the kick start can move and wind it self back a touch.
 
Response said:
Questions....

1. Do you have air pods on it? or factory filters?
2. Did you check the float height?
3. The reason the back light flickers, is down to the amps when cranking.. does it have electric start?
4. Have you tested you regulator & rectifier?
5. Not sure what you are saying about the kick start. if you had the side casing off, sometimes, the kick start can move and wind it self back a touch.
Click to expand...

i run pods.
didnt check the floats...they worked fine last season,it ran with pods and floeat made no problems.
it has electric start
didnt check regul/rectifier..how do i check them?

the kickstart,even the last season it ran worked only when the engine was warm,it was/is impossible to kickstart the bike in cold condition.
 
so i finally got the motor running.used some starter spray....motor runs fine but dies when i let go the gas grip.
so i think i need to let the carbs adjusted.
 
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