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LF250T-6B Laguna cutting out?
- Thread starter freddy
- Start date
thank you for your counsel. I have resolved the matter. the yp250 motor parts and standards will exactly suit my engine because they are the same, if I have read the advertising on ebay correctly. I will remove the t'stat and sender and compare them to the operating standards of the yp250, replacing them iwith OEM Yamaha if they fail. I will then calibrate my thermofan switch & re-test the bike to see what is happening. I'm in two minds about the CDI-whether to buy a sealed unit without a heatsink, or a different one with an heatsink- which may not be attached to anything. I'll have to enquire further.
new temp gauge sender tested 25 Ohms at 100 deg C, thermostat changes around 65 Ohms. Neither marked. Repco premixed coolant seems ok. Bought 3x 1L Bike cutting out when on freeway, @>70kph in abt 6min. Could be elect, vacuum or fuel. Because it seems precise and consistent, suspect elect. Motor still has compression, so not valves. Takes 10-15min to be able to restart. Due to infirmity can't get bike hot on road them examine it to see what's wrong. Will have to disconnect fan and heat it up here. Suggest very wide part tolerances-no specifications given. New CDI in transit. Has heatsink, OEM doesn't. Looks like clone of Mortch CF250 unit. Will fit new parts later today.
CDI failed. No spark now. 6+2 connectors are actually only 5 wires, soit needs an AC cdi which I will have to custom connect. the variations between std wiring conventions and the colours used in the loom just make life harder than it needs to be. There isn't any logic to it. I have 2 green, a blue/white, a black and a purple. I assume the greens are ground-(one is kill switches), the blue/white is prob trigger coil, the others are exciter coil and HT coil primary.. I'll need to look more to separate them. 2 wires has 1/4" spade connectors, 3 wires have 3mm spade connectors. A new unit has 3mm spade connectors in a 6 block. If I can change the 2x 1/4" connectors I can prob just re-arrange them in the old 6 pin block. I am driven to parts substitution because of the stupid retail price of the OEM part ($AU232--). It's just insanity that it's so expensive, especially when I know what's inside it and what the components are worth retail, here, in the most remote place from Silicon Valley, where getting components at any price is the biggest problem for circuit maintenance. And ebay has much cheaper parts (-90%) that can be modified to fit & work. Why don't agents realize that they are not God's gift to riders, and plundering the market is ultimately counter-productive? IFF the parts were good quality, the price might be more justified, but they often aren't. There's no real way to tell except buy and try-and I'm not rich enough to risk being terribly wrong. People with brains will either stop buying altogether, or find cheaper solutions. It will be the independent repairers whom will work out what interchanges for cheapest repairs. They aren't bound to their supply chains by the weight of dealer OEM parts agreements. Especially once the warranty has expired.