lowering a CL360- suggestions

[XsjadoTwin]

Okay so I'm about half way done with my cafe build and am in need of some guidance. Once I decide on how much cushion/padding I'll need for the seat of my daily driver (1975 cl360) I need to look into replacing the rear shocks. Now I am on the smaller side of things (5'6" ~ 120lbs) and with the stock seat I was just on the balls of my feet. I would like to be completely flat-footed at a stop. I have straddled the bike w/o a seat on it and I'm completely flat footed. I know I'll need a decent amount of foam for the seat to make it a semi-comfortable ride (my avg daily commute is around 60-70miles) which will raise it up a little but enough back story onto the question at hand.

What size shocks would a rider of my size need to lower the stance a bit while maintaining a comfortable ride?

Follow up question: when/if lowering of the rear occurs how would I go about lowering the front in the sake of keeping all things equal?

Like I said this is my primary source of transportaon so I'd like it to be lowe while maintaining a comfortable ride.

(I live in the Phoenix area of AZ, most of the riding will be done on highway and surface streets. The layout of the streets out here is strictly straight lines with very very few twists and turns. However if there is an adjustable kit out there that can drop the ride height while being able to manage the twisties I'd be all for it, since there are some great switchbacks through the canyons and mountains just 20min away)

Sorry for the wall o'text and barrage of questions but I'm extremely eager to get out and ride before the 120°F+ temps start making their appearance

Thank you

 

[trek97]

Just remove shocks. "Set up" bike where its comfy and take measurements.
I have 2.75" of travel on the rear of my 360. I am 170lbs. I dont believe Ive bottomed on mine, though I am sure I have come close. 2 seasons, 4000 miles of rural Illinois roads. I got mine at DCC. They are stiff, I keep mine on the softest setting. I stretched my swing, so my shocks are longer...You will need a different length shock than what I have. This link is only an example.

I met a guy over the weekend, sits on a wooden skate board...no pad. Rode hundreds of miles this past 3 days.

I dont know how to lower the front.

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-suspension-eye-to-clevis-365mm-14-inch-black-chrome-shock-absorbers-damper-32-0203.html

 

[hillsy]

How to shorten forks:

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

That diagram does not resemble a CB/CL360 Fork. There are no spacers on a CB/CL360.

The only option is to either cut the springs (I do not recommend), or lower in triple clamp.

There isn't much clearance between the top of the fender and the lower triple clamp. A large bump may cause bottoming out, and some damage or loss of control...

People do it, but I don't jump off bridges, even though others do it...,

 

[hillsy]

You're right - that's not a CB fork (it's a GS500).

The concept is the same - shorten the top spacer / spring and add a spacer to the damper rod spring.

If you have spacers and you cut them, or if you simply slide the forks through the triples, yes, there is an increased chance of bottoming out. If you cut the fork spring you will stiffen the spring (less coils = stiffer spring) and the chances of bottoming out are reduced.

This is all within reason of course - trying to drop a 6" travel fork by 4" isn't going to work very well.

Don't jump off bridges? What the hell are they for then?? ;D

 

[crazypj]

The mudguard will hit the brake splitter if it's lowered more than 3/4" (not MAY hit, it WILL hit)
Fitting a one piece stainless line and a pressure switch banjo bolt is probably easiest thing to do but even then it won't get real low, maybe 1-1/4" max
With slightly shorter rear shocks that should be plenty though
You don't need or want a thick foam, too soft a seat, something that supports you will work much better
I used couple of layers of carpet foam underlay then covered it with vinyl, it's fine for 100+miles although I wear cycling shorts instead of boxers (or 'commando') if I know I'm going more than 50 miles

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

You're right - that's not a CB fork (it's a GS500).

The concept is the same - shorten the top spacer / spring and add a spacer to the damper rod spring.

If you have spacers and you cut them, or if you simply slide the forks through the triples, yes, there is an increased chance of bottoming out. If you cut the fork spring you will stiffen the spring (less coils = stiffer spring) and the chances of bottoming out are reduced.

This is all within reason of course - trying to drop a 6" travel fork by 4" isn't going to work very well.

Don't jump off bridges? What the hell are they for then?? ;D

CB360 has no spacers. Spring cut is the only option other then lower on the clamps.