modified, aftermarket, or custom. nothing is safe (78 KZ1000)
- Thread starter doc_rot
- Start date
thanks. I wouldn't consider myself a painter, I do buy good products/tools to compensate for my skills so that I can get the results I desire.
The paint turned out pretty good. there are a few blemishes here and there that you will only notice if you really scrutinize the paint, but I'm OK with it. There is some weird stuff going on with the clear around the stripes so I'm going to do a light sand to knock back the high spots and then another coat of clear before I buff it out.
The paint turned out pretty good. there are a few blemishes here and there that you will only notice if you really scrutinize the paint, but I'm OK with it. There is some weird stuff going on with the clear around the stripes so I'm going to do a light sand to knock back the high spots and then another coat of clear before I buff it out.
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CarbsAndCylinders
Careful With That Axe Eugene
I can see now that Brodie was right about the straight lines on the fender.
Tune-A-Fish
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Think the painter on mine buried the graphics in 5 coats of clear then "cut and buffed" the whole surface. Zero line definition result.
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Tune-A-Fish
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HerrDeacon
Over 1,000 Posts
Beautiful paint, looks custom but with a stock Kawi feel, perfect.
Tune-A-Fish
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doc_rot said:
Looking at all of the recent paint work leaves me to wonder if the shop is open for business
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Sorry Tune, bike stuff is mostly just a hobby for me. If I was trying to profit off of it it would make it less fun. I actually really do not enjoy painting, it stresses me out. so much can go wrong with so much money in material on the line.
The front wheel spacer My buddy turned for me left a little to be desired, but at the time this was the only stock we had so not his fault. I remade it to cover the oil seal and make it a bit more sanitary.
I got a start on the brake mounts. I bored all the holes and then used a thread former to cut M10x1.25 threads. It was my first time using a thread former, and man they are trick. produces no chips, so no backing up every quarter turn, longer tool life. better in every way. I'm never going to by a traditional tap again. I also bored the recesses for the caliper and cut them out of the plate. II still need to clean up theoutside and I want to do some pocketing, How much material do you think i can safely remove? I was thinking about having 1/4" think walls and bottom.
I got a start on the brake mounts. I bored all the holes and then used a thread former to cut M10x1.25 threads. It was my first time using a thread former, and man they are trick. produces no chips, so no backing up every quarter turn, longer tool life. better in every way. I'm never going to by a traditional tap again. I also bored the recesses for the caliper and cut them out of the plate. II still need to clean up theoutside and I want to do some pocketing, How much material do you think i can safely remove? I was thinking about having 1/4" think walls and bottom.
Tune-A-Fish
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Spacers cool, but I don't think it should transfer any load to that hub shoulder. Hope you have a few thou clear, most use an abs dust cap no load.
slikwilli420
Been Around the Block
I do quite a bit of waterjet work, how were your brake brackets cut out? Why only cut them out part way?
Tune-A-Fish
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Yeah Doc, I just had to ask :-[
Look... millings... jet cut,nope yep. lol But yea... why not cut all the way, maybe you cant to keep shit from flying or to complete end ops (tap holes) in a sturdy cage then release the material for final detail?? What up Doc? lol
Look... millings... jet cut,
slikwilli420 said:
You were the one who gave me the idea to try this out actually, had them water-jet cut at a local place. It was an experiment. I figured since the parts would need a fixture for the cuts and I have to pay for the drops I would turn the whole sheet into a fixture by just throwing it in the vice. This allowed me to only have to index one hole since I had a cad drawing I could quickly bore and tap the remaining holes using a digital read-out. In the end it didn't really save me much time or from having to make a fixture as I had to make one to finish the outside edge. The connecting parts to the sheet are only on straight sections of the parts so I should be able to mill them flat pretty easily. I maybe have 100 hours on the mill so I'm still learning here.