New DTT member 360T build

kagraves said:
Exhaust leak???

From some searching that seems to be likely, can it do damage if I ride it?

I see some exhaust gases escape from the engine/header intersection every once and a while, but why all of a sudden the noise...
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exhaust leak won't do much damage. Been riding around for three weeks right now, still got to weld it shut.
Inspect for black carbon deposit spots on the exhaust or areas close to it. In the neighbourhood of the hole you should see a black spot if you've driven it around for a while.
 
So the exhaust leak was old exhaust gaskets, I bought new ones and replaced them. The engine still seems to have a weird ticking going on. It's not the valve gaps or cam chain, so I've been playing with the timing and trying to do it dynamically. The timing at idle is spot on, but the advance marks aren't lining up till around 5500rmp if I I remember correctly.

I also noticed some smoke out of my left exhaust when I rev from idle, I don't think I ever checked my float heights and when I cleaned my carbs up so I may check the heights to make sure they are in spec. The left plug has always been a little richer than the right. I know people said the stock heights were wrong and had a better setting but I can't find that link for the adjustment.

I also replaced my gauge lights and idiot lights with the ba9 leds from superbrightled.com, they are a great upgrade and use a lot less power for my charging system. And I installed the h4 conversion headlight from common motor to help see where I'm going. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-classic-car-bulb/4/
 
Sounds pretty normal to me.
Valves may be a little tiny bit loose but not too bad
Cam chain sounds fine
Setting left side can be difficult because magnets in generator and srings on right side valve are trying to turn motor further than TDCC
I use a 14mm box end on rotor bolt jammed onto footrest or gearchange, others use a socket and long bar onto floor or frame
One other major advantage with LED 'bulbs', vibration doesn't affect them 8)
 
So last night I checked the valves and did them so that there was a little more resistance on the feeler guage without going too tight, so I'll stop panicking about the valves.

Does anyone know if I should have the timing mark line up with the advance marks at any specific rpm?

And what do you guys recommend for float height settings? I've been seeing anything from 14-20mm, and I'm running all stock filters and exhaust. One plug tends to be more rich than the other so I'll start with adjusting to the level of the better side.

Thanks again everyone!
 
I think mine are at 18mm on the 360. A good way to do valves is to set them using the feeler gauge 1 thou up from what you need, and set it a bit on the tight side. So if your intake calls for .002, set it at a fairly tight .003, check it again with the .002 and it should be good. Either way works but I thought this was an interesting method when I heard about it and it worked out for me the last time I did the valves.
 
I used to teach people the 'go-no go' method.
Use a 0.002" feeler for intake, it should slide in relatively easy.
Try a 0.003" feeler, it shouldn't go in at all
Use the 0.003" on exhaust, 0.004" won't go
Simple and more than accurate enough.
Eventually you get 'the feel' and don't need go, no-go (although it's handy to check if you haven't done a valve adjust for a year or two)
 
so the bikes been running great for the past few weeks as my daily commuter and as my weekend warrior. but yesterday I noticed some popping from the right exhaust almost like its misfiring... and it seemed to be running a bit rich at idle. Got it home and today went to check the valve clearances and cam chain. They were good. started the bike up and its still popping and now, with the valve caps off I hear what sounds like somethings bouncing around the camchaft... and the engine is making a weird noise around 3.5 - 4k rmp. I'm scared to ride it or even rev it above 4k. any thoughts??
 
All the locknuts are on adjuster screws?
May be a good idea to pull rocker cover and take a look at the cam sprocket bolts?
Check it isn't the advancer rattling first though
 
Advancer seemed to be all good, lock nuts were all snug with proper gaps. Took the cover off and everything seemed to be good, chain tensioners still intact and in proper position. All boots were snug even though I thought the bolts holding the cam gear was going to be the cause of the problems. Cleaned everything up and re installed it. I'll going to go over the point gaps tomorrow. And the valves even though they shouldn't be different. Going to re set the timing and then start her up to see if there's any change.

I hope so as I am taking the bike back to my alma mater on Sunday and will be teaching high schoolers about graphic and industrial design for the next 2 weeks. The 360 is still my only mode of transportation, which I love! don't get me wrong but she likes to act up every once and a while.
 
got the bike running, but the left cylinder it's not firing at all. I checked and have fuel and air but no spark. I have power at the points and they are gapped and timed correct. I'm checking the coils have 5ohms on primary, and 14k for secondary. I'm getting 12v from the plug wire and grounding on the engine. Tried new plus and the ones that were working on the right cylinder and still not getting spark.

Can't find any shorts in the wiring.don't know where to go from here.
 
make sure the points cover isnt contacting/grounding at the wire connection for the points. Or the wire connector isnt grounding at the connection (check the little insulating washers are installed properly on the connection on the points) or not grounding on the head.
 
Swap coils and see if problem moves w coil or remains on left side, w known good right coil.
 
trek97 said:
make sure the points cover isnt contacting/grounding at the wire connection for the points. Or the wire connector isnt grounding at the connection (check the little insulating washers are installed properly on the connection on the points) or not grounding on the head.
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+1

On a Honda twin, if you lose spark on one side it either the points or the battery 95% of the time.
 
If you swap plug wires side to side, you also have to swap points wires at the coils.
Most common issue is points wire grounding out either on cover or the backplate
 
I'm thinking that it's the points. The left set has a small crater in the center that seems to deep to take a pint file to. The plug boot was also loose, so that want helping any. I cooped the end of the wire and screwed the boot back on. Much better reading for checking the coil now. I have a parts guy near me that had a 360 in parts so I'm going to give him a call for some points.
 
kagraves said:
I'm thinking that it's the points. The left set has a small crater in the center that seems to deep to take a pint file to. The plug boot was also loose, so that want helping any. I cooped the end of the wire and screwed the boot back on. Much better reading for checking the coil now. I have a parts guy near me that had a 360 in parts so I'm going to give him a call for some points.
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Most Honda dealers can get you a good replacement set, if you are gonna replace them I wouldn't put used points on there as they may be worn as well. I think I paid $30-35 for points and condenser "ignition tune-up kit" at the dealer - and they had it in stock.
 
ya just started looking them up and at that prove ill be getting a new set, i made sure the cover wasn't shorting out the points with moving the wires and while running with the cover off. im out of town teaching for the next 2 weeks so dont have any bike time, ut perfect to order these parts to get on the bike asap.
 
wondering what peoples experiences with the PAMCO ignitions are like. Found these for $190, although I'm not looking to put that money into the bike at the moment.

http://4into1.com/pamco-ignition-with-electronic-advance-honda-cb360-cl360-cj360t/

is it a noticeable difference for performance and reliability or more so that you can set it and forget it?
 
I don't have experience of the Pamco but he's been around a while, was originally on XS650 Garage if I remember right?
Anyway, I do have some experience of electronic ignition on CB360's.
It's a major upgrade and worth the cash
Bike starts easier and runs much better as long as if it stays in one piece.
In my opinion, the issue seems to be the CB360 heads run hotter than CB350 or XS650, probably because of unitary construction instead of separate cam carriers with gaskets (may not be much but it does make a difference)
I think Pete has been doing some tweaking to keep it reliable plus, I think he has a settable rev limiter? (been years since I looked at specifications)
Dyna doesn't seem able to last more than a few thousand miles, even with slots cut in the outer cover to help it stay cool (you probably know heat is the major issue with electronics, makes them 'age' real fast then break)
when you start getting over 200f (normal for 360) it's only a matter of time before it breaks.
The Pamco has separate 'blue box' which can be mounted somewhere way cooler,
If the hall effect sensors fail they are relatively easy and cheap(ish) to swap out with new ones but I think they may be upgraded to military/NASA/aircraft spec now? (probably 10~20 times the price but still less than $10.00 each ;D )
 
Got the new points in and the bike was running great.

Until I was heading to work yesterday and the bike started to act up and make a lot of noise. Got to work and parked it. Checked it out when I got off work thinking it was the valves/cam chain. Nothing helped. Got a friend to trailer it back to my place where I took it apart. come to find the bolts for the chain tensioner holder backed out, one had come off and was crushed. Further searching for damage found this



crack in the cam... FML.

Anyone got a cam laying around?
 
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