Newbie Engine Problems Please Help

Thanks guys I feel a new since of focus and pj you're right they were tight on that side. I got the new shims coming in but till then does any one know why my clutch is sticking I think it just needs a new one but any other ideas why it might be. So I don't replace it for nothing.
 
kingvillardgs850 said:
Thanks guys I feel a new since of focus and pj you're right they were tight on that side. I got the new shims coming in but till then does any one know why my clutch is sticking I think it just needs a new one but any other ideas why it might be. So I don't replace it for nothing.
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Probably gummed up plates if the bike has been sitting for a long time.


Whilst you are waiting for shims you can take out the plates and wash them in a petroleum based solvent. Make sure you re-oil them in fresh engine oil before you re-assemble.


You will probably need a new clutch cover gasket (you will probably tear the old one getting the cover off).
 
It doesn't die when I put it into gear it still goes it's just hard taking it out, like if I put it in first it hard going in second then even harder to get to third and going back down as well.
 
So it surges from N - 1 and wont disengage through shifts. Two possible issues I would address first. Pull it down and inspect the stack for contaminates and look at the basket for saw tooth grooves, if it has deep grooves its toast and will perform the way you explain, if shallow grooves, you may be able to clean up the stack and lightly file the basket evenly... like no dremel BS use a fine file.

Worn Basket:

38wornbasket.jpg
 
Well I think my basket could be worn because it looks like that a little but the grooves feel soft and not deep. I can't really tell here are the pics let me know how I should go about it. Also would engine or transmission cleaner work to clean the friction plates and the gear plates for the clutch or do I need the petroleum based solvent.
 

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Kinda hard to tell conclusively from the pic but those wear marks don't look bad enough to affect the clutch like you are saying.


Probably a combination of gummy plates / incorrectly adjusted cable.
 
I'm not seeing any grooves. I think your good, Just inspect the wear plates for dirt, if the drive plates all look like the one in the pic those look real good also. Could just be the cable is stretched passed the serviceable limit... everyone knows my feelings there... "no cable beats a new cable" also check the perch for wear, if the lever is wobbly you may have to replace it.

Your motor may be in better shape that you think if that basket is the one it came with, clutches say a lot about many things, but most importantly it shows how it was ridden.
 
Again it's hard to tell from the pics but those fibre plates look pretty new....and dry. Maybe the PO put in new plates but didn't soak them?


Tell me - how hard was the clutch cover to get off? Did the gasket stick / break or did it look new?
 
This driven plate looks like it has burnt spots from chatter or warpage. I don't see what your seeing lillsy those plates look soaked to me, and unless the cases were dry how do you suppose they could dry out when he's been running the motor :o

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Looks like New clutch time young man, Go through the cable and lever/perch too, but if its all got scored bunt spots I think it's likely trashed.
 
The pic of the fibre plate looks like it's dry in parts.


Not sure if those marks on the steel plate are from burn marks or just grime (??).


Anyway, clean them all up and measure.....
 
Stack em all every other like they install and see if they are all good and flat also. Measuring the stack is a good idea if you have the spec.
 
Lay the steels on a piece of glass and see whats the thickest feeler gauge you can slide under each in several spots.

Clutch fibers need only be dipped in oil before install, and even that is debatable. Soaking is a waste.

If your bike sits more than 24 hours, the fibers can appear to be 'dry'. Please do not rebuild your clutch every 24 hours.

If you can feel grooves on the basket fingers get rid of them with a file.

Your steels look funny. Pics can be deceiving
 
I just took them off but some of the steel pates are burnt and I checked only two friction plates so far and there up to spec. Also the clutch cover was a bitch to get off and the gasket look a little new if not new very lightly used and the all the plates were very soaked with oil because when it leaked the first time I put more oil in it. With the clutch lever I have to pull it all the way in before I can get any reaction out the bike so is that a sign I should get a new cable.
 
kingvillardgs850 said:
I just took them off but some of the steel pates are burnt and I checked only two friction plates so far and there up to spec. Also the clutch cover was a bitch to get off and the gasket look a little new if not new very lightly used and the all the plates were very soaked with oil because when it leaked the first time I put more oil in it. With the clutch lever I have to pull it all the way in before I can get any reaction out the bike so is that a sign I should get a new cable.
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The clutch sounds toasted, but if the budget is dry hit it all with a green scotch bright and some degreaser no harsh stuff like brake clean just to be sure, the gasket cant be used twice unless it's perfect if you have an older suzuki dealer you might get lucky on that. the cable if it's adjusted all the way out... go to Motion Pro or ebay and get a new one... Clutch cables are not that expensive.
 
How is the actuating lever (on the clutch cover) mounted? It should be a bit before 90 deg to the cable. This can affect the amount of (dis)engagement on the clutch.


I had an 1150 that used to slightly drag the clutch if it wasn't perfectly adjusted with a magic wand.
 
The actuating lever is at 90 I'm willing to buy a new clutch and cable if that's the problem the thing is I also want clubman's on there too so I got to find the new length for that.
 
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