No Lights

> I believe there must be a short somewhere inside of the switch, causing it to give power when off.

"In God we trust; all others, bring data." - W. Edward Deming

Get the old multimeter out and check the ignition switch first, if you haven't already. Eliminating problems with certainty is less expensive than belief.
 
Where do you see those results? Sorry, I don't know which wires you're reading 500 Ohm between.
 
Without a diagram, I'm not sure what it should look like. If you can use jumpers to mock up the things that should be happening when the switch is in use, you can figure out where your issue is.
 
Also, check the fuses for the lights, I had an issue with my head and tail not workning, good fuses, but there was just enough corrosion on the clips holding them they would not pass power. I used my test light, had 12V going to one side of the fuse but it wasn't passing through and out the other side. 5 mins with emery cloth and shined up the contact clips and 12V started flowing again. Di-electric grease and no more corrosion. The brass wasn't all green or chalky just a little darker then it would be new. Never would have thought it if I didn't do the test light.
 
I'll try cleaning the fuse holders. The holder in the solenoid is new, so I'd hope that one is fine. I'll check though.
I'll post a picture of the wiring for the ignition switch below if that helps to show what I'm talking about.
 

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Rich Ard said:
Without a diagram, I'm not sure what it should look like. If you can use jumpers to mock up the things that should be happening when the switch is in use, you can figure out where your issue is.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by using jumpers?
 
CALfeRacer said:
I'll try cleaning the fuse holders. The holder in the solenoid is new, so I'd hope that one is fine. I'll check though.
I'll post a picture of the wiring for the ignition switch below if that helps to show what I'm talking about.
Click to expand...

Do you have the whole diagram in a digital format?
 
Rich Ard said:
Do you have the whole diagram in a digital format?
Click to expand...
I've been using the one in my manual. tried to scan it, but it didn't come out right. I got one off google images that I'll post below.
 

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CALfeRacer said:
I'll try cleaning the fuse holders. The holder in the solenoid is new, so I'd hope that one is fine. I'll check though.
I'll post a picture of the wiring for the ignition switch below if that helps to show what I'm talking about.
Click to expand...
The one in the solinode has to be ok, bike wouldn't run without it. Power for the whole bike comes from it.
 
This may be more shade tree. .. one of my co-workers whom was a sickle technician for many years before me says unless you want to educate yourself in the ways of the jumper wire to determine a bad pole.... and I quote " replace the fuckin' switch, they are cheap" personally I like to verify the concern with data.
 
I don't buy a bad switch as the culprit. It means that 12V is getting to the coils but not to the comparably low-draw lighting circuit.
 
This is getting ridiculous.

Disconnect the connector that connects the main harness to the ignition switch.
Now use your multimeter to figure out which wire is always hot. (Red probably)
Now using a wire with the appropriate connectors on the ends connect that wire (the always hot one) to the others (probably brown and blue?)
If you then have lights your switch is bad.

All the ignition switch does is connect the permanent hot lead from the battery to the rest of the harness. So bypass the switch and see what happens.
 
What about it is ridiculous? ;)
I took advantage of a break in the rain to go out and try to get a diagnosis. I got a piece of wire with a couple connectors on the ends and plugged one in to the red (hot) off of the harness and the other in to any wire in the headlight bucket that had to do with lights. I got nothing. I'd normally say there must be a problem in the solenoid or in the hot wire itself, but the fact that it still runs is throwing me off.
 
CALfeRacer said:
What about it is ridiculous? ;)
I took advantage of a break in the rain to go out and try to get a diagnosis. I got a piece of wire with a couple connectors on the ends and plugged one in to the red (hot) off of the harness and the other in to any wire in the headlight bucket that had to do with lights. I got nothing. I'd normally say there must be a problem in the solenoid or in the hot wire itself, but the fact that it still runs is throwing me off.
Click to expand...

Ridiculous in that it's a simple problem that can be fixed in 10 minutes with a multimeter or a test light haha.

So do you have power to the red with the key on? With the key off?
 
Bought a multimeter today to make it easier to do this stuff, no more trying to get up to the shop to borrow one while they're open...
Anyways, 0V draw with the switch off, .12-.13V draw with the switch on.
 
Soldered the connections on the bottom of my switch, so it works properly now. No lights still though. I was told that I had wired my new solenoid backwards when I first put it in (the terminals are opposite of the factory) so I was wondering if that could have fried it or caused battery problems. Just a though. Friend said he thought he saw my headlight come on super dim for a few seconds the other day. Not too sure what that means... Battery?
 
Think I have battery issues. After almost 24hrs on the charger it is now flashing the "charging" light. On the charger/tender this says "Flashing for aborted charge." Bike runs without the battery (ask me how I know ;)) so a dead battery seems to make sense as far as no lights/accessories. After a new battery we will see what happens.
 
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