Noob question: turning over the engine DOHC

surfish95747

Active Member
Hey guys I have my engine out of the frame for cleaning and want to turn over the engine. Which side cover do I take off the get to the bolt in order to manually turn over the engine. Like I said NOOB question. Thanks!
 
Need to know what kind/model of bike. If it's a Honda it's typically going to be under the smaller, round side cover or "stator cover". Mines on the left hand side
 
Do you have the manual? It will generally tell you how to do this the correct way. Most bikes it is the stator bolt you use and only turn it one way. Other bikes you can use the kick stater too do it as well but I don't think the DOHC Honda's have a kicker.
 
pull the sparkplugs out as well otherwise you may just undo the bolt when turning over
generally not a good idear to turn it backwards either ;)
 
xb33bsa said:
pull the sparkplugs out as well otherwise you may just undo the bolt when turning over
generally not a good idear to turn it backwards either ;)

Thanks guys. Took off the stator cover and found the bolt. Took out all spark plugs. Engine turns over great and had consistent compression in each cylinder. However, I found out the stator cover is crack along the bottom bolt. Sad. I'm looking on eBay for one now.

IMG_20140515_162113_zpssraqw0vv.jpg
 
Bah! Jb weld and sanding! Not really any oil pressure down there, no point in buying a new one, especially since it's on the bottom bolt. You'll be the only person ever sees it
 
plagrone said:
Bah! Jb weld and sanding! Not really any oil pressure down there, no point in buying a new one, especially since it's on the bottom bolt. You'll be the only person ever sees it

I always love a good excuse to break out my JB Weld! I'll do it.
 
That crack and those deep scrapes mean the bike was layed down. Go over the motor very carefully and make sure there are no other cracks or broken bits.
 
xb33bsa said:
a buddy of mine dropped his 900f at 2mph and that same damage occured as well as a fried stator

Oh ya... Not saying there IS any other damage. Just saying, make sure. I've seen more damage than that on bikes that just fell over in the garage. Always good to be sure though.
 
Well I turned it over and it's smooth as a babies bottom. I did a compression test with the engine out of the frame and each cylinder reported exactly 30 psi every time. Being consistent is a good sign of things working right on the inside, right? I'll probably be buying a new stator and regulator/rectifier after it's all put back together, just to have new ones. Thanks all for the help!
 
VonYinzer said:
That crack and those deep scrapes mean the bike was layed down. Go over the motor very carefully and make sure there are no other cracks or broken bits.

Oh and you know what, I think I did the crack. I'm so mad. I remembered when my brother and I were taking the engine out, we had it sitting precariously on the jack and resting on the frame slightly. Well, we were about to get our hands on it when it just fell out and landed right on the stator cover. That must have caused the crack, unless I just didn't notice it before. Do you think falling, not even a foot off the ground will have ruined the stator or anything else? Everything inside looks fine, but who knows until I try to start it up again. Oh well, live and learn right?
 
you will want to check the stator coil mounts and make sure it isn't been shifted over so it is rubbing the rotor as well
 
surfish95747 said:
Well I turned it over and it's smooth as a babies bottom. I did a compression test with the engine out of the frame and each cylinder reported exactly 30 psi every time. Being consistent is a good sign of things working right on the inside, right? I'll probably be buying a new stator and regulator/rectifier after it's all put back together, just to have new ones. Thanks all for the help!

Consistent is good, 30 is not. If you meant 130 then that's within operational limits. Otherwise, set the valves and try again. Excessive valve spacing can cause low compression readings.

Read up on how to do a proper compression test. You'll want to do this now whole engine is out of frame
 
plagrone said:
Consistent is good, 30 is not. If you meant 130 then that's within operational limits. Otherwise, set the valves and try again. Excessive valve spacing can cause low compression readings.

Read up on how to do a proper compression test. You'll want to do this now whole engine is out of frame
if you are turning over by hand with a wrench 30 may be all you can get hahahah but being all the same is good news
the issue with the case for the stator is they get tweaked till the stator rubs on the rotor
i would suggest doing a simple tes like a single layer of masking tape wrapped around the rotor
do a temp assembly crank over a few times take it apart and check for witness of it rubbing
 
If the starter is still installed you can jumper it to a battery and crank the engine over on the bench...
Are the Carbs off? If so it's OK... If not, open the throttle plates with the choke off to get accurate readings.
Pray for over 100 ;)
 
Wow, thank you everybody. I will do this come Monday. Ha, I need to buy a battery. Any suggestions? I was thinking one of those true gel ones. What do you guys like.
 
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