theonlychrisj
New Member
First video:
https://youtu.be/KL5KfRYATrQ
https://youtu.be/KL5KfRYATrQ
Progress on my 1981 Honda CM400e cafe project
- Thread starter theonlychrisj
- Start date
theonlychrisj
New Member
Second Video:
https://youtu.be/D4CzslCXWn0
https://youtu.be/D4CzslCXWn0
theonlychrisj
New Member
https://youtu.be/TbX1XPwwCLE
Ok, I've run into my first snag. Clubmans came in today, and I installed them. My problem is: the throttle line is getting a big bend in it from the more compact position on the new bars. The bend is throttling up the motor and causing a really high idle. It's not actually idling, I know...
I need to know how to adjust the throttle cable to account for the new position of the throttle. The end of the cable has the little ovular catch so it will fit in the slot in the throttle handle, so I don't want to cut it without knowing how to reattach the end.
I think I may be over thinking this problem. Help!
Ok, I've run into my first snag. Clubmans came in today, and I installed them. My problem is: the throttle line is getting a big bend in it from the more compact position on the new bars. The bend is throttling up the motor and causing a really high idle. It's not actually idling, I know...
I need to know how to adjust the throttle cable to account for the new position of the throttle. The end of the cable has the little ovular catch so it will fit in the slot in the throttle handle, so I don't want to cut it without knowing how to reattach the end.
I think I may be over thinking this problem. Help!
Welcome to DTT. 
heres a link for the manual you may need.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=14484.msg141684#msg141684
Its a good looking machine. Im afraid you may find the clubmans to be uncomfortable on that bike. (Or, clubmans are just plain uncomfortable on any bike, for that matter) Your knees are gonna be in your armpits. The frame on that model will not lend itself to "Cafe styling" as easily as an earlier one from the 1970s. Unless you have some major frame modification skills. Also, personally Im not too keen on the whole "remove the rear fender idea" Slinging shit all over yourself and the bike just doesnt appeal to me.
But do whatever you feel fits you best.
The "H" pipe allows for the engine to breathe easier, it lets the exhaust pressure from each header to expand using both mufflers to escape. Instead of trying to squeeze it through one muffler. Best of both worlds, running better and quieter.
You can just search for shorter off the shelf cables. DIY Kits are readily available for shortening cables. Or there are places that will make custom cables for your particular application. If your not comfortable w the idea of making your own.
As long as shes running well now, you, may want to look into taking care of safety stuff first. Fresh brakes, tires, suspension...etc.
Heres the link to the 81 CM200 I recently picked up for my wife.
prolly skip page 2...gets a little off topic w the wifes subaru...but picks back up on page 3.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=67505.0
heres a link for the manual you may need.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=14484.msg141684#msg141684
Its a good looking machine. Im afraid you may find the clubmans to be uncomfortable on that bike. (Or, clubmans are just plain uncomfortable on any bike, for that matter) Your knees are gonna be in your armpits. The frame on that model will not lend itself to "Cafe styling" as easily as an earlier one from the 1970s. Unless you have some major frame modification skills. Also, personally Im not too keen on the whole "remove the rear fender idea" Slinging shit all over yourself and the bike just doesnt appeal to me.
But do whatever you feel fits you best.The "H" pipe allows for the engine to breathe easier, it lets the exhaust pressure from each header to expand using both mufflers to escape. Instead of trying to squeeze it through one muffler. Best of both worlds, running better and quieter.
You can just search for shorter off the shelf cables. DIY Kits are readily available for shortening cables. Or there are places that will make custom cables for your particular application. If your not comfortable w the idea of making your own.
As long as shes running well now, you, may want to look into taking care of safety stuff first. Fresh brakes, tires, suspension...etc.
Heres the link to the 81 CM200 I recently picked up for my wife.
prolly skip page 2...gets a little off topic w the wifes subaru...but picks back up on page 3.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=67505.0
theonlychrisj
New Member
trek97 said:Welcome to DTT.
heres a link for the manual you may need.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=14484.msg141684#msg141684
Its a good looking machine. Im afraid you may find the clubmans to be uncomfortable on that bike. (Or, clubmans are just plain uncomfortable on any bike, for that matter) Your knees are gonna be in your armpits. The frame on that model will not lend itself to "Cafe styling" as easily as an earlier one from the 1970s. Unless you have some major frame modification skills. Also, personally Im not too keen on the whole "remove the rear fender idea" Slinging shit all over yourself and the bike just doesnt appeal to me.
The "H" pipe allows for the engine to breathe easier, it lets the exhaust pressure from each header to expand using both mufflers to escape. Instead of trying to squeeze it through one muffler. Best of both worlds, running better and quieter.
You can just search for shorter off the shelf cables. DIY Kits are readily available for shortening cables. Or there are places that will make custom cables for your particular application. If your not comfortable w the idea of making your own.
As long as shes running well now, you, may want to look into taking care of safety stuff first. Fresh brakes, tires, suspension...etc.
Heres the link to the 81 CM200 I recently picked up for my wife.
prolly skip page 2...gets a little off topic w the wifes subaru...but picks back up on page 3.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=67505.0
Thanks for the manual link! I took it around the block a couple times with the new bars on, and they didn't feel too bad. I'm a tall guy, so time will tell I guess. and now that you mention it, I actually may leave the rear fender and just replace the lights.
As far as safety goes, the tires are ugly, but in great shape. Almost new. The bike was fairly well maintained by its PO. It runs great currently, but could use a little tlc here and there.
theonlychrisj
New Member
Ok, new snag:
I got the cables rerouted so the throttle no longer sticks. As soon as I got it re assembled, I noticed that the clutch was now not taught enough to allow shifting. I used the threaded tension adjusters at the lever and at the actual clutch to bring a little tension back to the cable and now I'm able to shift.
I took the bike around the block and now when I shift from 2nd to 3rd, the bike seems to not actually engage 3rd, or any other higher gear for that matter. It's like I can feel the shift take place, but when I pull the throttle, the bike maxes out and I don't get the higher gear. No idea what that's about.
Maybe the clutch cable is too tight now, and it's not allowing the higher gear to seat properly?
I got the cables rerouted so the throttle no longer sticks. As soon as I got it re assembled, I noticed that the clutch was now not taught enough to allow shifting. I used the threaded tension adjusters at the lever and at the actual clutch to bring a little tension back to the cable and now I'm able to shift.
I took the bike around the block and now when I shift from 2nd to 3rd, the bike seems to not actually engage 3rd, or any other higher gear for that matter. It's like I can feel the shift take place, but when I pull the throttle, the bike maxes out and I don't get the higher gear. No idea what that's about.
Maybe the clutch cable is too tight now, and it's not allowing the higher gear to seat properly?
theonlychrisj
New Member
trek97 said:
I'm reading 3/8-3/4 inches, which it definitely doesn't have now. But it wasn't shifting well when it wasn't adjusted. I guess it's not shifting well now either. I'll reverse my changes in the morning and take another look.
theonlychrisj said:
Im assuming it was shifting good before you swapped in the new bars?
Did you lube the cable, nice and juicy, while you had it apart? Cable not kinked or bent around anything too tight?
Just trying to think of different things here...
Having it over-tight, Maybe, possible the cable has been stretched, out of spec.
I dont know if its even possible it bent the shift forks??? Ive seen bent shift forks...dont know what caused it.
Did you change the engine oil? Makes me wonder if maybe the PO might have changed the oil for the sale. Maybe just dumped in whatever left over from his lawn mower. The guy I got Rachels 200 from, couldnt remember. But thinking probably Pennzoil from Caseys down the street from his house. :
Good Lord.Adjust to manual specifications and report back.
theonlychrisj
New Member
Problems solved(ish)!
Thanks, Trek97 for the guidance!
https://youtu.be/m7lqrcge0gY
Thanks, Trek97 for the guidance!
https://youtu.be/m7lqrcge0gY
Glad to hear re-routing did the trick!
Yes...paint it...go crazy.
No...Dont remove air filter box or side covers. It will be difficult to get it to run as good as it does now. And by difficult I mean Damned near impossible.
Yes...sync carbs...good maintenance always pays off.
Exhaust popping on decel is completely normal for carburetor engines. It popped before you removed the exhaust mufflers...you just couldnt hear it. :
When you roll off the throttle, still in gear w clutch engaged. Its "engine braking" during this, the engine is still being driven by the rear tire spinning. Forcing rpm to remain higher, engine sucking air in through the carbs, but it shuts off the fuel by dropping the needle into its seat...causes a lean condition. This, lean condition, is what makes the popping. Next time your out and about. Roll off the throttle and pull in the clutch lever. It wont pop. Because RPM will drop a lot faster...engine not being driven by the spinning rear tire.
there is nothing wrong w engine braking...keep doing it...saves brakes for when you need them most.
If you ever hear this same sort of popping during acceleration or just while cruising...stop. Something has clogged and shes running too lean...and probably about to burn a valve.
Yes...paint it...go crazy. No...Dont remove air filter box or side covers. It will be difficult to get it to run as good as it does now. And by difficult I mean Damned near impossible. Yes...sync carbs...good maintenance always pays off.Exhaust popping on decel is completely normal for carburetor engines. It popped before you removed the exhaust mufflers...you just couldnt hear it. :
When you roll off the throttle, still in gear w clutch engaged. Its "engine braking" during this, the engine is still being driven by the rear tire spinning. Forcing rpm to remain higher, engine sucking air in through the carbs, but it shuts off the fuel by dropping the needle into its seat...causes a lean condition. This, lean condition, is what makes the popping. Next time your out and about. Roll off the throttle and pull in the clutch lever. It wont pop. Because RPM will drop a lot faster...engine not being driven by the spinning rear tire.
there is nothing wrong w engine braking...keep doing it...saves brakes for when you need them most.
If you ever hear this same sort of popping during acceleration or just while cruising...stop. Something has clogged and shes running too lean...and probably about to burn a valve.
Oh and just saying. Some, Clip ons can be set up more comfy than clubmans. Due to being pretty much universally adjustable, to best fit the rider. Height, angle, pull back, all that stuff. If the angles of the clubmans you got are comfy for you...good show. You got lucky.
As long as your controls dont hit and dent the tank.
As long as your controls dont hit and dent the tank.
Did you get the drive chain properly adjusted and lubed up, as per manual?
Maybe time for a new chain. clean it and inspect closely w a flash light for small cracks in the links. Any stiff or frozen rollers.
A loose chain will destroy sprockets. Quicker than you may think.
Maybe time for a new chain. clean it and inspect closely w a flash light for small cracks in the links. Any stiff or frozen rollers.
A loose chain will destroy sprockets. Quicker than you may think.
theonlychrisj
New Member
Thanks so much for all your advice, Trek97!
Duly noted on the air box. The air filter is pretty dirty, so I'll replace that asap.
I'm adjusting the chain tomorrow, but it is time for a new one regardless. I don't see any cracks, but it's rusted all over.
Duly noted on the air box. The air filter is pretty dirty, so I'll replace that asap.
I'm adjusting the chain tomorrow, but it is time for a new one regardless. I don't see any cracks, but it's rusted all over.
theonlychrisj said:
Your sure welcome. Replace the rusted chain soon. Inspect the sprockets for wear. The bottoms of teeth will be cupped shaped or sharp teeth w sharp edges if worn. Replacing the chain today will be cheaper than buying a chain AND sprockets, later. Also a broken chain can crack the engine crankcase or kill you.
see these pics...
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=worn+chain+sprockets&FORM=HDRSC2
theonlychrisj
New Member
Sorry for the radio silence lately, guys. I started a new job and have had very little time to work on the bike. To update, I checked the sprockets and they're not in need of immediate replacement. I'll replace them probably after the new year, just for the experience. I want to replace the sticky old throttle, but I need to research a bit more before I do that. It's still running great, and handles well, although I have nothing to compare it to, so it might handle like crap...
[instagram]https://www.instagram.com/p/8mOpoutMQ_/?taken-by=theonlychrisj[/instagram]
[instagram]https://www.instagram.com/p/8mOpoutMQ_/?taken-by=theonlychrisj[/instagram]
theonlychrisj
New Member
Partial update:
So, stripped the tank. New chain and front sprocket are in and will be on asap. I have to buy a chain tool. I've been riding it back and forth to work, about a 20 minute ride at varying speeds (20-60mph) and it handles well, but is under-powered. I know, I know.
This pic is a few days old. Rear fender is now gone, and I put a TC Bros license plate/tail light mount on the left shock.
So even though I've seen a TON of CM400's with pods/stacks, I think I've ditched the idea. Everyone thinks they're a bad idea, and I don't know enough to dispute. Even though the bike runs great as is, I desperately want to squeeze more hp out of this thing, so I welcome ANY honest advice to that end.
So, stripped the tank. New chain and front sprocket are in and will be on asap. I have to buy a chain tool. I've been riding it back and forth to work, about a 20 minute ride at varying speeds (20-60mph) and it handles well, but is under-powered. I know, I know.
This pic is a few days old. Rear fender is now gone, and I put a TC Bros license plate/tail light mount on the left shock.
So even though I've seen a TON of CM400's with pods/stacks, I think I've ditched the idea. Everyone thinks they're a bad idea, and I don't know enough to dispute. Even though the bike runs great as is, I desperately want to squeeze more hp out of this thing, so I welcome ANY honest advice to that end.
ponycarman
Been Around the Block
Nice looking bike! I like the simple looks. Great work so far 8)