Quick battery question (1975 cb360)

S

ShadowPlay

New Member
hello, I have been trying to figure out what battery will work well with my bike and i have read through the faq threads.
basically all I am asking is for confirmation that this battery will work on my bike (this is my first build attempt)
The build I'm doing on my cb 360 will leave most of the stock electrical including the electric starter, I plan on changing the signals and tail light, and clean out the entire airbox area which is why i want a small battery.
anyways heres the battery, thanks in advance for your responses! :)

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-custom-motorcycle-electronics-parts-small-12v-sealed-trugel-battery-78-0531.html
 
It should work if you're planning on making changes to your charging system and lights (like a swap to LED) and if you spend you majority of your time riding outside the city (little to no stop-and-go traffic). I also recommend avoiding the electric start if you're going to use that battery.

Like I said... it will work, but it's about half the size of what you really want.

Go for 9Ah or better for peace of mind.
 
Okay, thanks a lot for the advice! the bike actually came with a 9a battery and i really only wanted to change it for the looks. but if thats the size i need, so be it. thanks again for your help
 
If you're after something small, you can always change format. LI-ION variants are much smaller than lead acid, but you will definitely need to upgrade your R/R. The one we sell on our site for $35 was especially designed for the Honda twins from the 60s and 70s.
 
The original battery was a 12a battery with 110 cca. Soeone had already reduced yours in the past.
 
I was leaning towards a Li battery, but all this talk about how sensitive they are to charging and uncharging, makes me think in my application it would be a costly mistake. What would be my options. I want small size for weight savings but need enough to power H4 headlights at night. I have no charging system at all, total loss. Only running lights and a small TrailTech computer. Want it to be sealed so it can be mounted in any configuration.
 
Sonreir said:
If you're after something small, you can always change format. LI-ION variants are much smaller than lead acid, but you will definitely need to upgrade your R/R. The one we sell on our site for $35 was especially designed for the Honda twins from the 60s and 70s.
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i dont think i would be willing to fork out the extra cash for a LI-ION battery to be honest, but i think i sould probably buy that upgraded r/r from your site. is there any other cost effective small batteries that might work for me or not?
 
o1marc said:
I was leaning towards a Li battery, but all this talk about how sensitive they are to charging and uncharging, makes me think in my application it would be a costly mistake. What would be my options. I want small size for weight savings but need enough to power H4 headlights at night. I have no charging system at all, total loss. Only running lights and a small TrailTech computer. Want it to be sealed so it can be mounted in any configuration.
Click to expand...

LI-ION is a poor choice for total loss. If you can find one, a small deep cycle battery would be a good bet. Unlikely they exist in a setup small enough for a bike, though.

ShadowPlay said:
i dont think i would be willing to fork out the extra cash for a LI-ION battery to be honest, but i think i sould probably buy that upgraded r/r from your site. is there any other cost effective small batteries that might work for me or not?
Click to expand...

Depends on your definition of cost effective.

AGM is the best option for "cheap" batteries, but they're still pretty big. 9Ah AGM would be your best bet if you're wanting to keep it under $100.
 
I've run total loss on LI-ION. It works well, and battery sizes can be very small. That said, I run a device that disconnects my battery completely once at 10v. This prevents damage to the cells. The other thing is that once you start losing voltage, it happens extremely fast. So you go from running great at 14v or better to the bike stopped on the side of the road in an instant. My bike doesn't like less than 11v, so once the voltage starts to fall the end is near.

I actually reinstalled the charging system and went to a battery half the size of the one I was running before. I take the battery out every 200 miles or so and check to see if the cells are balanced. I've never seen a delta more than .2v across cells. It's all working awesome! I've installed modern rectifier and regulator to do this though.
 
Sonreir said:
Depends on your definition of cost effective.

AGM is the best option for "cheap" batteries, but they're still pretty big. 9Ah AGM would be your best bet if you're wanting to keep it under $100.
Click to expand...

okay i will have to look into those and see if i can find one, under 100 is exactly what i was thinking, thanks a lot again! cheers
 
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