RadioShack Voltage Regulator - Will It Work?

[ncologerojr]

My 36 year old voltage regulator finally quit, so I did some searching to see what my options were as far as a DIY. I started thinking that maybe I could use one from RadioShack like I did with my rectifier. After a lot of searching I found this thread: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=29084.0
That was the only thread I could find that addressed this topic. So I decided to gamble $8 give it a try and make a thread for all future searchers.

I went by RadioShack and picked up a 12v regulator, an aluminum heat sink and some heat sink gel.

The issue is, the regulator is only rated to 1amp. However I've read that using the heat sink may solve that issue...

Think it will work?

 

[nrcb125]

I think it'll burn up the voltage regulator... A cheap Koehler one on ebay is ~$25.

You could try putting two (or more) of the radioshack regulators in parallel which should split the current between the regulators. But do note, these regulators do not play nice with current going the wrong way through them. A 0.5V difference between the outputs of two or more in parallel could fry them both.

I think it's best to buy a regulator/rectifier from ebay.

Also to calculate the current draw of your electronics, take the rated wattage and divide by the voltage. A 55W headlight will draw around 3.75A.

One more thing, if you're replacing a regulator/rectifier with this it will not work. This part does nothing to rectify the AC output (make everything positive voltage instead of positive and negative). It takes a DC input and gives a DC output. A rectified output is probably 'close enough' for a DC-DC regulator to work.

Please post back if this works or not. I'm curious to see if it does.

 

[ncologerojr]

I think it'll burn up the voltage regulator... A cheap Koehler one on ebay is ~$25.

You could try putting two (or more) of the radioshack regulators in parallel which should split the current between the regulators. But do note, these regulators do not play nice with current going the wrong way through them. A 0.5V difference between the outputs of two or more in parallel could fry them both.

I think it's best to buy a regulator/rectifier from ebay.

Also to calculate the current draw of your electronics, take the rated wattage and divide by the voltage. A 55W headlight will draw around 3.75A.

One more thing, if you're replacing a regulator/rectifier with this it will not work. This part does nothing to rectify the AC output (make everything positive voltage instead of positive and negative). It takes a DC input and gives a DC output. A rectified output is probably 'close enough' for a DC-DC regulator to work.

Please post back if this works or not. I'm curious to see if it does.

Thanks for the input. I Already have upgraded the rectifier, so the is only a regulator. I however have a bad feeling as well...

 

[brightrider]

Try a mid seventies porshe / audi voltage regulator. Available at many autoparts stores...under 30 bucks. Small enough to bolt in place of your old one.

 

[SONICJK]

Guaranteed not to work.
Its rated at 1 amp, says it right there on the package. You need something more in the 10-15 amp range (preferably above whatever your main fuse to the battery is)

 

[Bert Jan]

Guaranteed not to work.
Its rated at 1 amp, says it right there on the package. You need something more in the 10-15 amp range (preferably above whatever your main fuse to the battery is)

This^^

And furthermore, that one is rated 12v. It will never be able to give your battery enough punch to actually recharge after starting or long idle. You have not told us wich bike you have. If you have a dynamo, get the kohler/ Google for "kohler hondatwins regulator".

If you have field coil, get a combined new unit. No cheap (and good) way around it.

Lets assume you have a Honda. Dynamo system has a pink, yellow and yellow/white wire. Field coil system has 3 yellows, a black, a white and a green. Those are the wires coming out of the engine, regarding your issue.

I suggest you educate yourself on these systems before you fry vital parts or set your bike on fire.

And yes, that can happen with the wrong parts installed.

 

[ncologerojr]

This^^

And furthermore, that one is rated 12v. It will never be able to give your battery enough punch to actually recharge after starting or long idle. You have not told us wich bike you have. If you have a dynamo, get the kohler/ Google for "kohler hondatwins regulator".

If you have field coil, get a combined new unit. No cheap (and good) way around it.

Lets assume you have a Honda. Dynamo system has a pink, yellow and yellow/white wire. Field coil system has 3 yellows, a black, a white and a green. Those are the wires coming out of the engine, regarding your issue.

I suggest you educate yourself on these systems before you fry vital parts or set your bike on fire.

And yes, that can happen with the wrong parts installed.

It is a honda, 3 phase dynamo system. I am educated on the system, just simply giving something new a try. It is a 12v regulator just like stock, and if you look at a stock diagram for a '77 cj360 you'll see that the battery is not regulated. The battery is fed directly from the rectifier, so no problem there.
Furthermore you can increase the voltage rating of a regulator by adding resistors if needed, a google search will show that.
I was planning on running multiple regulators in parallel along with an aluminum heat sink to increase the amp rating. Each regulator is about the size of a nickel so a stack of them would still be quite small, and only cost about $8.
Thank you for your input, and please try not to talk down to people in your posts. It is not in good taste.

 

[Rich Ard]

Each regulator is about the size of a nickel so a stack of them would still be quite small, and only cost about $8.
Thank you for your input, and please try not to talk down to people in your posts. It is not in good taste.

In the interest of good taste, let me suggest that you have picked a good sized fire starter with no obvious benefit over a less expensive, more elegant solution (in the kohler replacement). I will tag along in case you decide to proceed.

 

[Sonreir]

It is a honda, 3 phase dynamo system. I am educated on the system, just simply giving something new a try. It is a 12v regulator just like stock, and if you look at a stock diagram for a '77 cj360 you'll see that the battery is not regulated. The battery is fed directly from the rectifier, so no problem there.
Furthermore you can increase the voltage rating of a regulator by adding resistors if needed, a google search will show that.
I was planning on running multiple regulators in parallel along with an aluminum heat sink to increase the amp rating. Each regulator is about the size of a nickel so a stack of them would still be quite small, and only cost about $8.
Thank you for your input, and please try not to talk down to people in your posts. It is not in good taste.

Actually, it's a single phase system. Also, the battery is regulated: The regulator affects the whole system, even though it's "down stream" of the battery.

You might be able to get the regulator to work by adding resistors, but that's like losing weight by stopping eating. It's not going to work in the long run because those resistors are eating up the power that would normally go toward feeding the electrical components on your bike. You're basically turning your 10A alternator into a 1A alternator.