Rear shock bushings, correct fitment? + Couple other questions.

[bitten_by_tarmac]

Rear suspension was very stiff, removed shocks to investigate. Rubber part of bushings was wrong size, so I trimmed to fit. Aluminium tube that goes through rubber was OK for top mount, but too long for bottom, trimmed it to fit. Extra washers were on it, binding the rotation even with properly sized bushings, so chucked them in the parts box. It looked like whoever fitted the shocks intentionally made the friction really high, very odd.

I just want to confirm, these joints are supposed to be able to turn freely, right? Fixing the friction I intrduced a small amount of side to side play, approx 1mm. I'm guessing this will be OK?

The damper bit inside, I don't know the proper words, but the silver bit that slides in to the black bit is not polished and smooth like on the front forks, it looks a bit rough and slightly rusty. Possibly because the shocks have been locked fairly solid due to the bushings. I put some oil on, don't have the tools to disassemble the shocks. The silver bit is only slightly smaller diameter than the black bit, so I think this may actually be some sort of cover with the actual damper parts hidden inside. Any thoughts / advice?

Bike is a crossbreed of 1987 and 1998 CG125, if that makes any difference.

 

[xb33bsa]

amount of movement required depends upon the angle of the shocks,ie the design of your rear suspension
there will always be some movement needed but the more the shocks are straight up and down the less is required

as long as you dont have any extreme binding or rattling slack you will be ok
it is ok to have the rubber bush just crushed enuf to be snug
normally it is a bonded rubber and steel bushing and the amount of resistance is a fixed value

 

[bitten_by_tarmac]

I suspected the rubber binding was not a major issue, sounds like I didn't need to bother fixing it. Oh well. The metal to metal binding I would count as extreme.

Quick replys on this forum, thanks!