Rebuilt bike making clicking noise at first startup!

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Pat383ram

Active Member
Here is the noise. It sounds like it's not getting enough juice to turn the engine over but I have it hooked up to a car battery so I can't imagine that's it. Also the kick start is stuck but I don't think that is related because it goes through the gears and rolls fine. Thanks
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5UjSbNFoMLY
 
The clicking is your starter relay.
A couple of times, in the video, it sounds like the starter tries to spin, but then disengages.
Does the motor turn over freely?
 
A little info about the bike would be helpful. Have you had the motor running at all?
Not likely the starter is locking up the motor. It should have a one way clutch that allows the motor to turn regardless of the condition of the starter.

You will probably have to pull the stator cover and try to rotate the crank with a wrench.
 
since I rebuilt this engine it hasn't been run. It wasn't locked up like this after the build origonaly. I removed the side cover and tried to rotate it manually with a wrench but it's stuck. The kick start is also stuck.
At first when I chicked it it did turn a bit and stop, now it will not turn.
 
Loosen all the valve adjusters to allow the valves to relax into the seats and try to tun it over
 
As Tune-A... has suggested, it sounds like there may be interference with the valves and pistons, possibly.
How much did you rotate the crank after the build-before the kick starter locked up?
Did it see several rotations before lockup?
Turned freely while setting the crank/camshaft sequence? What about immediately afterwards?
What was the reason for rebuild and how far did you get into the motor?
 
I loosened all four bolts under the side covers and it may have given a little bit more rotation but I don't think so. I rotated the crank after the build and before the start manually, enough to check and see if it was running through the gears, I would say a few rotations 5 plus. I rebuilt the engine due to the manual kick not working, and I also replaced the cam chain tensioner to an aftermarket and put in slightly larger pistons, so everything was smooth, up until now.
 
Personally, at this point, I would double check that the crank and camshaft timing are correct.

Make sure the transmission is in neutral so we can eliminate the transmission from the equation.
Pull the spark plugs and look inside the combustion chamber. Do you see any of the valves hitting a piston while trying to rotate the crank manually.
Remove the valve inspection caps and verify the valve are loose from the rockers.
 
It could be any number of things. The engine is obviously locked mechanically, but after a full engine rebuild the only way to find it is to go back into it. You said it rotated freely before, then when you tried the starter it locked up. I would start there.

A tip : if a fully charged motorcycle battery wont turn your freshly rebuilt engine over, and the kicker wont turn the engine over, do not hook a car battery to the motorcycle and try to start it.

Since it rotated free before, my money's on the starter gear assembly or something in the kicker or trans. Noone will know until it comes apart.
 
After pulling the spark plug on the clutch side, it looks like the air intake valve is opening as the piston is rising.... I'm pretty sure that is incorrect. Is it possible that the overhead cam shaft is installed but in the wrong position? Thanks!
 
Likely 180deg out. Put Num1 piston up @ TDC 1/4 mark, big notch at clutch side of cam up two small groves horizontal.
 

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You said you rotated the engine freely about 5 times after the build. Cams don't magically jump 180 out and if the valves were clearing the piston before, why would they be stopping it now?

That's not to say it isn't timed incorrectly. I''ll go with it just so that you start disassembling stuff, because something isn't right and you won't know what it is until you find it.

You said the kicker locked up first, then the engine locked up.
 
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