RFY shocks

The fishing = Searching....

If I was really annoyed, I wouldn't have bothered, but so many people do like everything handed to them without effort.....
 
You aren't the only one reading this...some people need things spelled out...LOL
 
I found max pressure 'should' be 75PSI, mine are at 110PSI but have ALL the air bled out (which isn't possible on stock set up)
To be quite honest, I wouldn't use them without a re-build on anything over 200cc (I know how I roll ;D )
Unless you can modify them yourself it isn't much cheaper than buying decent shocks in the first place as re-build/modification will cost about $220.00 (or more, depending who does it)
 
I did a full rebuild on my RFY's before trusting them. After removing the spring it was obvious that they weren't filled properly. There was at least an inch of travel where it was clear that the piston was experiencing cavitation. This would ultimately lead to poor damping performance.


Here's a photo.

RFY-Internals-break-down.jpg

I also updated my website with a write up on the shocks.

www.chrislivengood.net
 
I have decided against it for now, my RD shouldn't over stress them. On a bigger bike it's likely needed though.
 
You have to consider what they are going on, the stock Honda shocks were not much more than pogo sticks to start with a and age didn't improve them one bit , I will be buying a set of these for my streettracker, it beats the bent up pogos sticks that are on there now, easily $90.00 worth of improvement.
 
wfo speedracer said:
You have to consider what they are going on, the stock Honda shocks were not much more than pogo sticks to start with a and age didn't improve them one bit , I will be buying a set of these for my streettracker, it beats the bent up pogos sticks that are on there now, easily $90.00 worth of improvement.

If they aren't even close to evenly dampened, they won't be much - if any - improvement over the beat up stockers.
 
When modified they are the best cheap shocks out there, but, if you can't DIY them it's better to buy some $300.00 shocks.
They have to be drilled and tapped for a bleed hole, it isn't possible to completely fill them because of top out spring
 
You can get them about damn nearly completely filled without tapping a hole. And by damn near, I mean 99.9%.

You can get oil to fill the piston, top out spring, and bushing with a little work. The seal is where the issue is. It has a large-ish cavity on the backside. That means that when you lower the seal into the shock body it traps air in this cavity. You can work around this by applying a vacuum to the seal at the shaft. There's a correct order of operations required to get it right, but once you get setup you can get them almost perfect.
 
That may be so, but, I don't see any point in going to all the work of stripping shocks then not drilling and tapping 5mm hole to allow 100% filling. It isn't difficult and there is a boss available
Shocktop3.jpg


Shocktop.jpg


BTW, new shock base is really only needed for bikes with a clevis mount, (Honda and some Suzuki) the space is 0.800" wide and mount is usually 0.750". Clevis cracks when tightened
 
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