Self contained intake air cooling system ideas... Any thoughts?
- Thread starter VonYinzer
- Start date
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Sonreir said:
Yes, e85 is great for running high boost / high compression - the WRX guys love it for making large amount of torque on stock turbos. The one drawback is that it has roughly 30% less "power" per gallon than gas, but that's related to its high octane rating (105-115, depending on whom you are asking).
Does e85 work ok in a 2 stroke? I don't have any 2 stroke experience other than lawn and garden equipment...
Ethanol and methanol have a lower energy density so that loses power. The flip[ side is that they run a much higher stoichiometric ratio ie more fuel: air to burn completely. jetted correctly either will make slightly more power than straight gasoline. Methanol can make around 12% more power and stands much higher compression ratio and ethanol is 7% above regular gasoline in terms of energy (power) released per amount of air burned.
Gas burns at 14.7:1, ethanol is 9:1 and methanol is 6.47:1
It would be possible to run a 2 smoke on methanol, E100, E85 or E an other number, but it has to be jetted correctly or else the house burns down. For some reason that I never studied, 4 strokes seem to work better on methanol that 2 strokes. I suspect that's because it burns slower and the fire has to be ignited much sooner.
Gas burns at 14.7:1, ethanol is 9:1 and methanol is 6.47:1
It would be possible to run a 2 smoke on methanol, E100, E85 or E an other number, but it has to be jetted correctly or else the house burns down. For some reason that I never studied, 4 strokes seem to work better on methanol that 2 strokes. I suspect that's because it burns slower and the fire has to be ignited much sooner.
VonYinzer
Over 10,000 Posts
Now that is interesting!
Less as a way to cool intake air, than a way to dissapate heat quickly from the cylinders and heads themselves. Effectivly the same results but through different means. I need to read up on this tech some more. It seems that the power needed fkr the system to work would be the main hold up. That and the cost.
Thanks a million for the link!
Less as a way to cool intake air, than a way to dissapate heat quickly from the cylinders and heads themselves. Effectivly the same results but through different means. I need to read up on this tech some more. It seems that the power needed fkr the system to work would be the main hold up. That and the cost.
Thanks a million for the link!
VonYinzer
Over 10,000 Posts
Also... Teazer, I'm especially interested in what you might have to say about this...
Liquid cooling an air cooled RD motor. I've now heard at least two seperate people talk about doing this or seeing this done, but as these things usually go, the details are fuzzy.
I've been staring at my R5 jugs and heads while scratching my own head wondering how one might go about this. I've come up with a hair-brained theory or two, but that's it so far.
Anyone have any info on this type of modification?
Liquid cooling an air cooled RD motor. I've now heard at least two seperate people talk about doing this or seeing this done, but as these things usually go, the details are fuzzy.
I've been staring at my R5 jugs and heads while scratching my own head wondering how one might go about this. I've come up with a hair-brained theory or two, but that's it so far.
Anyone have any info on this type of modification?
I don't have an RD in front of me right now, but I'd opt for something that hugs close to the fins (you only need a very little bit of liquid so long as it's well circulated) and pumps into the jugs from the bottom. You have the outlet at the top of the jugs on the opposite side. Radiator can fit in a side-mount fashion or just in front of the rear wheel.
The tricky part is the pump. An electric pump that would circulate quickly enough is likely to be big and take a lot of wattage to run. Mechanical pump is better, but hooking that up causes its own problems. It's a further drain on horsepower that will need to be made up with a combination of timing and/or compression (other engine mods can usually be accomplished without a need for increased cooling). I'd probably opt for a pump in a confuration that would allow it to act as a chain tensioner. Of course, this means the water's only flowing when the bike is moving, so the whole thing would stop working if you got stuck in traffic for too long.
The tricky part is the pump. An electric pump that would circulate quickly enough is likely to be big and take a lot of wattage to run. Mechanical pump is better, but hooking that up causes its own problems. It's a further drain on horsepower that will need to be made up with a combination of timing and/or compression (other engine mods can usually be accomplished without a need for increased cooling). I'd probably opt for a pump in a confuration that would allow it to act as a chain tensioner. Of course, this means the water's only flowing when the bike is moving, so the whole thing would stop working if you got stuck in traffic for too long.
The simple way is to fit an RD350LC top end. That way you need a radiator and pump etc but it's a "simple" mod that also gets you a reed top end.
FAHRON used to offer a water cooled top end but that may prove a touch elusive.
You can water cool each cylinder but the transfer ports are almost siamesed and work better as a single casting. You could also get an old TZ cylinder barrel and head and weld up the roof of the exhaust and floor of the intake to change to whatever port time you want and then cut the heads to a lower CR. Weld on reed cages and cut boost ports and you are good to go.
Fonseca in the UK now offer replica TZ750 barrels with reed cages and they may be 6 transfer port OW31 type. I have heard about them but haven't checked them out.
The most cost effective way though would be an LC top end from the UK, Canada or Europe.
FAHRON used to offer a water cooled top end but that may prove a touch elusive.
You can water cool each cylinder but the transfer ports are almost siamesed and work better as a single casting. You could also get an old TZ cylinder barrel and head and weld up the roof of the exhaust and floor of the intake to change to whatever port time you want and then cut the heads to a lower CR. Weld on reed cages and cut boost ports and you are good to go.
Fonseca in the UK now offer replica TZ750 barrels with reed cages and they may be 6 transfer port OW31 type. I have heard about them but haven't checked them out.
The most cost effective way though would be an LC top end from the UK, Canada or Europe.