So here's my problem. I have my breaker points set to the correct width for maximum clearance but everytime i go to set the left cylinder's timing when i have the test light connected the light never fully dies. It will stay dim as i crank the motor over then it will brighten up as i get closer to the 'LF' mark. It only does this on the left cylinder, as i go through the same process for the right cylinder it doesnt seem to happen.
Setting ignition timing on Cj360
- Thread starter renslow
- Start date
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
Set them for mid range clearance or less .014 -.012 I believe, its actually better to set them closer to the minimum end as they will wear larger and that also lets the coils charger longer.
Might need to dress them with a point file as well, as it can be pitted and not closing properly.
Might need to dress them with a point file as well, as it can be pitted and not closing properly.
Ah, im still getting the same results. The light is a lot more dim prior to adjusting to a narrower width but i cant get it to turn off completely. Another thing when i get to the first TDC marking 'LF' for the left cylinder on the compression stroke the light shines brightest atleast 1/8th turns off from the marking. I keep moving the breaker plate to adjust the light at the 'LF' mark but i cant get it to JUST turn on at the correct marking.
I'm glad i have this resource! I really appreciate you guys helping me out, first build trying to do things right im just trying to learn things as i go.
I'm glad i have this resource! I really appreciate you guys helping me out, first build trying to do things right im just trying to learn things as i go.
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
New points? Old points? How are you hooking the light up? I use a Plain old 12 volt test light and hook the CLIP to the spring on the point and then stick the probe in the fins.
You sure you are setting the gap to the highest point on the advance cam? There's a mark under the bolt and washer the you point at the foot on the point that indicates the highest spot.
You sure you are setting the gap to the highest point on the advance cam? There's a mark under the bolt and washer the you point at the foot on the point that indicates the highest spot.
frogman said:
Okay well theres the first problem to my mistakes. I didnt know there was a point indicating the highest spot. This probably has a lot to do with why it's not turning off completely. Im done with class around 3ish so i'll post up some pictures and keep you guys updated to see if i can get this thing working.
I'm using a 12v test light exactly how you described so i should be good there. I'll post some pictures as well i really hope i can get her running today! You guys are saving me a lot of time and money this is the last step of my build i just hope i dont run into anymore problems
Okay so i have some time to work on the bike and here's where im at;
I reset the width to the correct setting (.330mm or .013")
BUT
whenever i rotate the crank and when the light finally turns off and when i start getting closer to the 'LF' mark the light doesnt turn on but it turns on about 180 degrees off. Now how do i fix this? Gah !
I reset the width to the correct setting (.330mm or .013")
BUT
whenever i rotate the crank and when the light finally turns off and when i start getting closer to the 'LF' mark the light doesnt turn on but it turns on about 180 degrees off. Now how do i fix this? Gah !
This is fixed by loosening the big screws that hold the points plate and rotating it. Rotating clockwise will advance the timing and make the points open sooner and rotating counter-clockwise will retard the timing and make the points open later.
Once you have the left side correctly set, the right side gets set just by adjusting the gap.
Once you have the left side correctly set, the right side gets set just by adjusting the gap.
