Stator is not charging battery - wiring diagram included

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djsmiles

Been Around the Block
Hey guys, I don't know how many of you remember me or not, I mostly finished my build last year but the bike wasn't charging the battery and then the winter came so I stopped working on it. Now it's spring time and want to ride. Could someone please take a look at my wiring diagram and help me figure out why the battery isn't charging? I don't know much about the multimeter but I get the same reading on all three wires on the R/R. So when the battery dies I have to push it home.
If my wiring diagram is correct, then what is the best way to find the culprit? Maybe I have a bad connection somewhere?
75 Honda CL360 Scrambler
Aftermarket Regulator/Rectifier
Lithium battery from EarthX
 

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First thing to check is the stator. I see that your white and yellow are spliced together, so the only reading you need between the stator windings is resistance between the pink and then then white/yellow combo. It should be around 2 Ohms.

Next, read between the pink and ground. You should get Open Line or infinite reading, depending on your meter.

If those check out OK, repeat the first reading, but measuring AC voltage with the engine running and the stator disconnected from the R/R. You should have about 12-20 volts at idle, climbing quickly to around 50-60 volts at 5000 RPM.

If everything still checks out, the problem is almost certainly with the R/R or the wires leading to/from it.
 
Thank you for responding, I appreciate it. So I'm waiting on some parts before I can put fuel back in the tank and then I can start the engine.

Question: For steps 1 and 2, do I do this with the engine off? Just asking because for step 3 you said "with the engine running".

I also updated my wiring diagram, the wire coming from the middle tab on the R/R actually goes straight to the battery and the ignition wire does too, they are not physically connected except at the battery terminal.
 

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Yes, that's correct. Engine off for resistance tests.

Wiring for the R/R and ignition switch shouldn't change anything.
 
I'm getting 0.5 Ohms between the two stator wires. none of the other readings match up to what they should be either.

Did I mention that I have a Lithium-ion battery from EarthX ? It requires a special charger so it just occurred to me, why would the bike's old system keep the battery charged? Am I missing an important piece of the puzzle?
 
Guess what happens when you read? you learn stuff. EarthX's website specifically says If you have a vintage bike, older than 1990, you must verify you bike has a modern charging system/regulator that keeps the voltage between 13.8V-14.6V or do not use a lithium battery. So a friend of mine says I would benefit from a Mosfet regulator/rectifier which keeps the voltage that high constantly. Has anyone found a good quality Mosfet R/R, I need it to be as small as possible to fit in the place of the R/R I have in the battery tray.
Thanks in advance

I've been searching around and found what looks to be the smallest one I can find, it's for a Buell 1125, measurements are 3x3 7/8x1":
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosfet-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-For-Buell-1125-CR-R-2008-2009-2010-Y0302-1AM/232263683668?hash=item3613fe8e54:g:KiMAAOSwbtNaAbmr
 
We do MOSFETs and we'll pre-wire them to fit your bike: http://www.sparckmoto.com/Products/Detail/103

That said, our standard 12V Single Phase unit is safe for LI-ION use and we specifically designed it for use on the Honda twins: http://www.sparckmoto.com/Products/Detail/7
 
Now I wish I would have waited, I already ordered the part for the Buell. What are the dimensions of the Sparck Moto 12V Single Phase Regulator/Rectifier? I don't see that on the site.
 
I'll have to go back and check. Fairly small though. I want to say maybe 3" center-to-center on the mounting holes?
 
So I got the new mosfet R/R intalled and my results look much better. I have over 15 volts coming out of the R/R. The battery shows 13.2v at idle. When revving the engine it goes up slightly to about 13.4 which tells me there is enough being sent to keep it charged. Switching to lithium has been interesting, this whole project has been interesting but it's almost done.
Thanks for all your help.
 
13.4V will definitely work, but it's still a little on the low side. I'd keep an eye on things.
 
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