Texas Two Step Taco

Rotax, one half of a SkiDoo 700

John I saved your string that was on two stroke world for the street taco, in fact have it printed and have used it for reference,’love the husky head on it, but the Rotax head is very intriguing. Is that the 160mph bike? Would love to hear more...


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John on your top header pipe for this
IMG_6375.jpg

for this chamber did you split a u bend and get the correct id and weld it back up? Also did you use replaceable belly sections on dyno to get a tuned length?


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They're actually one and the same bike. When I finally "get this land speed thing out of my system" - my wifes words, not mine - I'll put the air cooled motor back in and it'll go back on the street.
John on your top header pipe for this chamber did you split a u bend and get the correct id and weld it back up?


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Yes, the entire header tube from the port face to the diffuser progressively flares out. So really the header and diffuser are one thing.
 
They're actually one and the same bike. When I finally "get this land speed thing out of my system" - my wifes words, not mine - I'll put the air cooled motor back in and it'll go back on the street.


Yes, the entire header tube from the port face to the diffuser progressively flares out. So really the header and diffuser are one thing.

My buddy Brian Hobbs, he is part of team treachery and old age and you are hereby inducted also, said that is the way I should do it....but of course I had to do it the hard way because I didn’t want to wait for a u bend.


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John I saved your string that was on two stroke world for the street taco, in fact have it printed and have used it for reference,’love the husky head on it, but the Rotax head is very intriguing. Is that the 160mph bike? Would love to hear more...


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They're actually one and the same bike. When I finally "get this land speed thing out my system" - my wifes words, not mine - it'll go back into street trim.

I'd kinda underestimated the potential of the air cooled engine and thought it lacked the horsepower to set records. I think I was wrong about that but was getting frustrated with the engines limitations. That's when the other engine project started in earnest. What I wanted was something with a more modern port layout than the old Pursang engine, and with a better bore:stroke ratio too. I chose the Rotax cylinder not because it has more potential than anything else - it doesn't - but because the cylinder mounted reed housing made it easier to adapt to the Bultaco crankcases. I could've just used a complete modern engine but I wanted something that was still fundamentally a Bultaco that looked like a Bultaco.

The Rotax uses a 72mm stroke, while the longest stroke Bultaco used was 64mm, and even these are a tight fit. I had to basically cut the walls of the crank house out and weld in some machined rings to make room for the crank, and of course these were positioned right where the original case studs were, so these were repositioned too. The crank itself was machined from a KX250 unit and uses a long rod from a LT500 and a Husky piston. Mallory slugs were pressed in for balancing. The cases were grouted for strength.

Aluminum deck plates were welded to the top of the cases to allow the Rotax cylinder to be bolted down. The port layout was determined with EngMod2T and while the porting is relatively mild it's about as far as I can go without welding. It was designed from the start to run methanol so needs no radiator, just a couple of small water tanks with an electric pump and thermostats to get it warmed up quickly and prevent the head from getting too hot.

The pipe was based on EngMod2T as well, the original max speed being 9800, this being raised later to 10500 and then 11000 when the engine proved to run smoother than expected. Many happy hours were spent on the dyno, not just getting the numbers out of it but also making sure it was able to withstand prolonged running at full load and RPMs. To hear it run like this on the dyno for a minute or so continuously sounds cruel and unmerciful but that's what has to be done. Depending on the weather and the tune power is between 70 and 80hp. With a bike as light as the little Bul it accelerates quickly, even with the LSR gearing.

The fairing chosen was an old Peel Mountain Mile design and seems to work OK. The first couple of years were a bit of a flop really, though records were set. It just didn't make the power on the lake that it did on the dyno and I had no idea why. Eventually it dawned on me that the fairing - which was almost sealed at the front due to not having a radiator and in an attempt to minimise drag - was creating a low pressure area at the carb inlet. It'd pull very strongly off the line but as it picked up speed it got progressively weaker and weaker. When I finally woke up to what was happening I cut an air intake slot in the front of the fairing and ran ducting from there back to the carb. This made a massive difference, and it was a huge relief to see the bike finally show it's potential at its last run. The fading power with speed was gone, but wheelspin became an issue even at 120+.

I'm pretty pleased with how it's turned out so far. It took a lot of work to get the clutch up to the task - they're quite anaemic - and so far the gearbox has been fine. I'm still battling some torsional vibration issues but I'm confident these can be overcome. Sounds pretty simple I guess but there were teething problems of course, and wrong trees were barked up. But it's been a fun project.
 
My buddy Brian Hobbs, he is part of team treachery and old age and you are hereby inducted also, said that is the way I should do it....but of course I had to do it the hard way because I didn’t want to wait for a u bend.


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Thanks for accepting me into Team Treachery and Old Age, in return I hereby appoint you as head of the Texas chapter of Team NFI Racing.
 
So more or less a bolt on. Just a little welding, machining a different crank along with the cases, moving studs etc.

That's a serious upgrade and a load of work. Nicely done. Do you happen to know any of the guys doing LSR on GT750 Suzukis? Steven Finn or Bob Prior?
 
Yeah pretty much a bolt on. Of course there was a lot of detail work as well, like replacing the single front downtube with twin tubes to allow the central exhaust to pass through, adapting the primary drive and ignition to the new crank, making the flywheel and trigger, making the starter, fuel and ignition systems etc etc.

Don't know Steve or Bob, but I'll keep an eye out for them at the next event. If there is one.
 
They're actually one and the same bike. When I finally "get this land speed thing out my system" - my wifes words, not mine - it'll go back into street trim.

I'd kinda underestimated the potential of the air cooled engine and thought it lacked the horsepower to set records. I think I was wrong about that but was getting frustrated with the engines limitations. That's when the other engine project started in earnest. What I wanted was something with a more modern port layout than the old Pursang engine, and with a better bore:stroke ratio too. I chose the Rotax cylinder not because it has more potential than anything else - it doesn't - but because the cylinder mounted reed housing made it easier to adapt to the Bultaco crankcases. I could've just used a complete modern engine but I wanted something that was still fundamentally a Bultaco that looked like a Bultaco.

The Rotax uses a 72mm stroke, while the longest stroke Bultaco used was 64mm, and even these are a tight fit. I had to basically cut the walls of the crank house out and weld in some machined rings to make room for the crank, and of course these were positioned right where the original case studs were, so these were repositioned too. The crank itself was machined from a KX250 unit and uses a long rod from a LT500 and a Husky piston. Mallory slugs were pressed in for balancing. The cases were grouted for strength.

Aluminum deck plates were welded to the top of the cases to allow the Rotax cylinder to be bolted down. The port layout was determined with EngMod2T and while the porting is relatively mild it's about as far as I can go without welding. It was designed from the start to run methanol so needs no radiator, just a couple of small water tanks with an electric pump and thermostats to get it warmed up quickly and prevent the head from getting too hot.

The pipe was based on EngMod2T as well, the original max speed being 9800, this being raised later to 10500 and then 11000 when the engine proved to run smoother than expected. Many happy hours were spent on the dyno, not just getting the numbers out of it but also making sure it was able to withstand prolonged running at full load and RPMs. To hear it run like this on the dyno for a minute or so continuously sounds cruel and unmerciful but that's what has to be done. Depending on the weather and the tune power is between 70 and 80hp. With a bike as light as the little Bul it accelerates quickly, even with the LSR gearing.

The fairing chosen was an old Peel Mountain Mile design and seems to work OK. The first couple of years were a bit of a flop really, though records were set. It just didn't make the power on the lake that it did on the dyno and I had no idea why. Eventually it dawned on me that the fairing - which was almost sealed at the front due to not having a radiator and in an attempt to minimise drag - was creating a low pressure area at the carb inlet. It'd pull very strongly off the line but as it picked up speed it got progressively weaker and weaker. When I finally woke up to what was happening I cut an air intake slot in the front of the fairing and ran ducting from there back to the carb. This made a massive difference, and it was a huge relief to see the bike finally show it's potential at its last run. The fading power with speed was gone, but wheelspin became an issue even at 120+.

I'm pretty pleased with how it's turned out so far. It took a lot of work to get the clutch up to the task - they're quite anaemic - and so far the gearbox has been fine. I'm still battling some torsional vibration issues but I'm confident these can be overcome. Sounds pretty simple I guess but there were teething problems of course, and wrong trees were barked up. But it's been a fun project.

You level of commitment is unparalleled. To see you solve the limitations you had before is inspiring. To go from 60 to the 70-80 whp is simply amazing. We chose the peel also for our first build lucky the cb200! Very slippery! We won’t tell your wife that there is no cure for the taco virus.


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We won’t tell your wife that there is no cure for the taco virus.


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She outsmarted me one day. The conversation went something like this:

Her: "blah blah blah blah..."
Me, reading and not really hearing a word: "mmhmm mhmm"
Her: "blah blah blah"
Me: "mmm uhuh.."
Her: "blah blah blah blah. Bultaco."
Me, suddenly looking up: "What??"
Her: "I knew you weren't listening!! Is that the only way I can get your attention? "
 
She outsmarted me one day. The conversation went something like this:

Her: "blah blah blah blah..."
Me, reading and not really hearing a word: "mmhmm mhmm"
Her: "blah blah blah"
Me: "mmm uhuh.."
Her: "blah blah blah blah. Bultaco."
Me, suddenly looking up: "What??"
Her: "I knew you weren't listening!! Is that the only way I can get your attention? "

They are devious creatures. Speaking of Bultaco’s lol can we talk about the diffuser design how it applies to where our engines will live? Do you know one of my favorite youtube two stroke mechanics aumechanic? His software is based on Blair.
. I used his software to design a chamber and was wondering if you would give it a look.
IMG_6385.jpg




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Blairs work has been largely superseded for quite a long time now, especially his port time-areas. Having said that you can still use his pipe formulas and they'll get you into the ballpark, which is a good thing because nearly everyone uses them as the basis for their own recipes. But for everything else, well, if you use 70's technology you'll end up with 70's style horsepower numbers. Likewise Jennings and so on are only interesting for historical reasons. Thiel and Overmar almost doubled the horsepower of the old Blair based designs.

Please forgive me for being so blunt, but I suspect you need to rethink your approach. You're at least 15hp down on where it should be - quite a big chunk of power that's just AWOL - and it's not because of the lack of a trick head or a cool looking pipe with a 3 stage diffuser. You should be able to get into the 40's with a decent but basic air cooled head and a simple, basic pipe of the right proportions.

My approach when the numbers fall so short of the target is to do a sort of a stock take of what I have, not add any new trick bits or anything else that might muddy the picture. Just try to verify that everything is as it should be to get back to a solid baseline. Some of the things you might want to have on your checklist would include:

Is the cylinder in good shape? Acceptable wear and piston clearance, not too much taper or ovality?
Is the compression good? Does it align roughly with the theoretical? Poor ring seal absolutely kills power with a two-stroke.
Does the bottom end pass a pressure test? Even small leaks hurt power.
Is the compression ratio appropriate? Don't get too greedy, a very high CR reduces the EGT and the pipes efficiency, especially at high rpms.
Is the primary CR appropriate? For an engine like this you'll probably want to be up around 1.45:1 or more.
Is the porting appropriate for the rpms and power target? Be aware that it's entirely possible to port a cylinder and make it worse than stock. Are holes being partially uncovered that shouldn't be at TDC or BDC? A test with a stock cylinder would be interesting. Is the piston opening and closing ports at the right time? The intake especially is affected by variations in skirt length.
Has the ignition timing been checked with a strobe at max rpms? Static timing is meaningless.
Is the carb appropriate? Any signs of fuel frothing?
Is the pipe dimensioned appropriately? Even a simple pipe of the right sizes will get you very close to the output of a super duper 100 piece pipe.
Has the jetting and timing been optimised?
Have you done a sanity check on the jetting and timing? Does it seem to want unusually high or low figures for either?
Any problems with deto or preignition?

My gut feeling is that there is something fundamentally wrong - or just plain worn out - and that all the trick stuff is just a distraction. Reaching the power goal is one thing, but reaching it within a reasonable time frame is much harder and the more distractions and variables you play with the longer it will take. These engines made pretty good power in stock form, I think you need to fix things to at least get back to this baseline before adding any trick stuff. Don't get sidetracked by overthinking things, get the basics sorted first. You can do it. Beat that Ducati.
 
Blairs work has been largely superseded for quite a long time now, especially his port time-areas. Having said that you can still use his pipe formulas and they'll get you into the ballpark, which is a good thing because nearly everyone uses them as the basis for their own recipes. But for everything else, well, if you use 70's technology you'll end up with 70's style horsepower numbers. Likewise Jennings and so on are only interesting for historical reasons. Thiel and Overmar almost doubled the horsepower of the old Blair based designs.

Please forgive me for being so blunt, but I suspect you need to rethink your approach. You're at least 15hp down on where it should be - quite a big chunk of power that's just AWOL - and it's not because of the lack of a trick head or a cool looking pipe with a 3 stage diffuser. You should be able to get into the 40's with a decent but basic air cooled head and a simple, basic pipe of the right proportions.

My approach when the numbers fall so short of the target is to do a sort of a stock take of what I have, not add any new trick bits or anything else that might muddy the picture. Just try to verify that everything is as it should be to get back to a solid baseline. Some of the things you might want to have on your checklist would include:

Is the cylinder in good shape? Acceptable wear and piston clearance, not too much taper or ovality?
Is the compression good? Does it align roughly with the theoretical? Poor ring seal absolutely kills power with a two-stroke.
Does the bottom end pass a pressure test? Even small leaks hurt power.
Is the compression ratio appropriate? Don't get too greedy, a very high CR reduces the EGT and the pipes efficiency, especially at high rpms.
Is the primary CR appropriate? For an engine like this you'll probably want to be up around 1.45:1 or more.
Is the porting appropriate for the rpms and power target? Be aware that it's entirely possible to port a cylinder and make it worse than stock. Are holes being partially uncovered that shouldn't be at TDC or BDC? A test with a stock cylinder would be interesting. Is the piston opening and closing ports at the right time? The intake especially is affected by variations in skirt length.
Has the ignition timing been checked with a strobe at max rpms? Static timing is meaningless.
Is the carb appropriate? Any signs of fuel frothing?
Is the pipe dimensioned appropriately? Even a simple pipe of the right sizes will get you very close to the output of a super duper 100 piece pipe.
Has the jetting and timing been optimised?
Have you done a sanity check on the jetting and timing? Does it seem to want unusually high or low figures for either?
Any problems with deto or preignition?

My gut feeling is that there is something fundamentally wrong - or just plain worn out - and that all the trick stuff is just a distraction. Reaching the power goal is one thing, but reaching it within a reasonable time frame is much harder and the more distractions and variables you play with the longer it will take. These engines made pretty good power in stock form, I think you need to fix things to at least get back to this baseline before adding any trick stuff. Don't get sidetracked by overthinking things, get the basics sorted first. You can do it. Beat that Ducati.

Don’t place any merit in that dyno test. It was fundamentally flawed. Bill had a problem with his computer and the data was skewed. We also don’t know where we are because of some of my fundamental flaws. First was having the timing set at what my manual said was 3-3.25 mm BTDC and not putting a strobe on it. Being dumb and not thinking through that we are at 14:1 compression. Being as excited as I was the first time I drove my go kart under the house because I got the racer fog. Second was putting the Magee expansion chamber that was made for a H2 on our first dyno pull. Then using 50:1 ester based oil in pump gas. Fine for breaking the engine in not so fine for a dyno pull. Doing 10 heat cycles and not using the Paris Hilton tuning and slowly knocking the piston in shape and putting a load on the engine. 30 whp after a trick head, ported professionally cylinder, assembled under the instruction of a world champion drag racer was a kick to my balls. Piston to wall was .0055” but I have heard from other racers who used that piston and stuck it. They guy I bought the new piston from designed it because of that.

You are right and I will quote you. “I have come to believe the engine is ancillary to the pipe.” - John Murray.

I am learning the basics on why Blair doesn’t work from guys like Baxter, Flannery, Nowson, Murray, and Ralf. Thy dyno was off by 10whp on Bills mule run after our run. So hopefully we are in the hunt...and Blunt makes you better. Thank you. You gave me even more food for thought...my checklist is growing.


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Oh and bulls may love cows but a bultaco is not a Kawasaki...


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Ok I don’t have a Blair in the world let’s move onto putting on the Frits! Let’s make another chamber or at least the Venturi for the end of the baffle cone! http://www.pit-lane.biz/t3173-gp125...jan-thiel-and-mr-frits-overmars-part-2-locked.


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No no no no no - keep it simple and stay focused on the basics. Get back to a solid foundation first. The dyno numbers may be suspect but the timeslips always tell the truth. It isn't slow because it lacks tricks, there's something wrong. I'd even consider putting the stock head back on for dyno testing. I tested a variety of chamber shapes on my 360 Pursang engine and the stock trench style chamber came out on top - not by much but it beat the others that should have been better according to internet wisdom. At some stage I'll be welding up the Husky head and replicating the trench chamber in it.
 
No no no no no - keep it simple and stay focused on the basics. Get back to a solid foundation first. The dyno numbers may be suspect but the timeslips always tell the truth. It isn't slow because it lacks tricks, there's something wrong. I'd even consider putting the stock head back on for dyno testing. I tested a variety of chamber shapes on my 360 Pursang engine and the stock trench style chamber came out on top - not by much but it beat the others that should have been better according to internet wisdom. At some stage I'll be welding up the Husky head and replicating the trench chamber in it.

My son says it is slow because I am slow! Lol ok back to the basics!


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Those time slips were from a stock tired engine with 26whp and 95psi compression. The first year we raced Zeke was on it in its motocross configuration. He did 12.6 in the 1/8th mile. The next year with no engine modifications but with an air shifter and a stretched swing arm and a lightened flywheel I did 10 something in the 1/8th. We have yet to make it to the track in its current configuration or off the dyno.


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I got this off the internet it is Frits Overmars FOS exhaust concept. Ralf Schipmann made a spread sheet for this the Bultaco. Look at the belly on this beast! Was curious about the Venturi at the end of the baffle cone.
IMG_6413.jpg

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