Tire hitting electronics pan.

D

darockvo

New Member
I see many people cutting off their factory frame brace above the rear tire and welding in a pan for their battery and such flush with the frame. As I was getting ready to fab the pan for mine, I noticed there would be some tire clearance issues. I removed the springs from the shocks and the tire will clearly move past the top of the frame. My question is do people really ride with their tire hitting their frame?

Next how do I eliminate this issue. I plan on replacing the stock shocks, so maybe I need longer ones. But as I see it, I need to raise the rear about an inch to clear the top of the frame, and another .25" for when the shock bottoms out for top tire bloat on impact. Is 1.25 inches too much of a lift. I have some room to move the tree back up the forks because I have a cb750 front end, modified 1 inch shorter than cb750 stock, to make up for some of the 1.78 inch difference in the 350 to 750 swap. This also changed the front to a tighter trail which i know will make for a quicker steer geometry. Am I over thinking this scenario?
 
Glad you checked that before you welded anything. You need to make sure the tire won't hit as when you ride, the shocks will compress and if the tire hits the box at speed over a bump that will not be fun. I would move the box forward to allow clearance. you can raise the rear but you have to also raise the front the same amount or the bike will be very unstable and probably unridable. A speed wobble at 50 mph is not fun. you could also put a bump stop on your shocks to shorten the travel but that will likely make the bike uncomfortable. Whatever you do you need to make sure that at full compression on the shock the tire won;t make contact with anything. Also consider if you raise the rear and front to check the chain for rub on the swinger and your brake linkage for binding etc.
 
CONGRATULATIONS !!!!!!!!!!
the amazing thing is you are the first person i have ever seen post a concern over this issue
most are literally either too stupid to know it is going to happen or in a few cases they just don't care
you gotta leave room for wheel travel just like the oem did
leave the suspension geometry VERY close to stock
do not lower the bike front or back you will sacrifice cornering clearance
build your machine around the issue with the seat design
putting the electronics in a tray is a foolish thing to do anyway the regulator all locked into it's own lil oven ::)
 
Unfortunately, the ones you've seen like that were likely built by people more worried about the look of the bike than it actually functioning correctly.

When I built mine, I raised the electronics tray up so the tire would clear. I just bent the sheet I used for the tray. It is tapered to still fit inside the rear hump.

tank_seat_02.JPG


blogger-image--1898222316.jpg
 
xb33bsa said:
CONGRATULATIONS !!!!!!!!!!
the amazing thing is you are the first person i have ever seen post a concern over this issue
most are literally either too stupid to know it is going to happen or in a few cases they just don't care
you gotta leave room for wheel travel just like the oem did
leave the suspension geometry VERY close to stock
do not lower the bike front or back you will sacrifice cornering clearance
build your machine around the issue with the seat design
putting the electronics in a tray is a foolish thing to do anyway the regulator all locked into it's own lil oven ::)
Click to expand...

Lol. Unfortunately I did not see the issue when I built the seat. I wanted it to cover the ugly 71 cb350 frame rails, instead of putting it on top of the frame like most people, I wrapped it over creating a straight line from the tank to the rear of the seat. ugh. This is the reason I was looking a the rest of the tire clearence issue. It would not be a huge deal if I had not cut the hole for my taillight yet, so now I have to back the hole, glass over it, and start modifying my seat.

Also I am running a heat sinked regulator/rectifier so heat is not a big deal there. I also placed it under the frame, just behind the tank to let it breathe some, because this is where I was going to mount the stock rectifier anyway.
 
hahah you are doing good
the other thing to consider is these 350's are tiny bikes iand having the seat low on the frame is not only uncomfortable you also do not have as good control over the bike as if you were sitting up higher like the stock seat
 
xb33bsa said:
nice work flug
Click to expand...

Thanks. Hahaha, you must like my regulator oven. :)

You can't tell but I did design it to have airflow through the seat hump to keep the stuff cool but keep most water out.
 
darockvo said:
I see many people cutting off their factory frame brace above the rear tire and welding in a pan for their battery and such flush with the frame. As I was getting ready to fab the pan for mine, I noticed there would be some tire clearance issues. I removed the springs from the shocks and the tire will clearly move past the top of the frame. My question is do people really ride with their tire hitting their frame?

Next how do I eliminate this issue. I plan on replacing the stock shocks, so maybe I need longer ones. But as I see it, I need to raise the rear about an inch to clear the top of the frame, and another .25" for when the shock bottoms out for top tire bloat on impact. Is 1.25 inches too much of a lift. I have some room to move the tree back up the forks because I have a cb750 front end, modified 1 inch shorter than cb750 stock, to make up for some of the 1.78 inch difference in the 350 to 750 swap. This also changed the front to a tighter trail which i know will make for a quicker steer geometry. Am I over thinking this scenario?
Click to expand...

If you want to keep the hump as small as possible yet still keep the electrics under there consider sliding the battery forward, still on it's side, to just behind the tank. The frame bars are 1" in diameter and a small gell battery is maybe 3" at most thick, you can go thinner if you go lithium. So if you make a tray that sits a 1/2" below the frame rails just above where your carbs are all you need is to have the front section of the cafe seat hide up to an 1.5" of the battery. Not many would notice the tray below the frame and you really only need the thick padding on the seat back near the hump so you can go thinner up front and conceal the tunnel for the topside of the battery.
 
xb33bsa said:
CONGRATULATIONS !!!!!!!!!!
the amazing thing is you are the first person i have ever seen post a concern over this issue
most are literally either too stupid to know it is going to happen or in a few cases they just don't care
you gotta leave room for wheel travel just like the oem did
leave the suspension geometry VERY close to stock
do not lower the bike front or back you will sacrifice cornering clearance
build your machine around the issue with the seat design
putting the electronics in a tray is a foolish thing to do anyway the regulator all locked into it's own lil oven ::)
Click to expand...


Can i please see a build thread from you, you do come up with good points but im just interested to see a project from you.

You can all so bolt the regulator to the underside of the electrics tray so its not cooking.

The OP said he took the shocks out to check, well your bike with shocks on will never travel that far so its a misrepresentation of clearances needed
 
cqyqte said:
If you want to keep the hump as small as possible yet still keep the electrics under there consider sliding the battery forward, still on it's side, to just behind the tank. The frame bars are 1" in diameter and a small gell battery is maybe 3" at most thick, you can go thinner if you go lithium. So if you make a tray that sits a 1/2" below the frame rails just above where your carbs are all you need is to have the front section of the cafe seat hide up to an 1.5" of the battery. Not many would notice the tray below the frame and you really only need the thick padding on the seat back near the hump so you can go thinner up front and conceal the tunnel for the topside of the battery.
Click to expand...

Yes. that is part of my redesign. It just sucks I have 15 or so hours in my seat, and I have to re-engineer it.

The knowledge from my failed design taught me tons. I learned how to check for clearance issues, And many of my favorite bikes have now become unpractical. :-\
 
jsnabbs said:
The OP said he took the shocks out to check, well your bike with shocks on will never travel that far so its a misrepresentation of clearances needed
Click to expand...

He actually said he took the springs off, not the shocks, which is exactly how you would check max travel.
 
On my CB360, the electronics are under the seat in the triangle (where the stock location of the battery was) and the battery is under the hump. The fuses are in their stock location, while the regulator sits under the hump next to the battery.
 
i still don't understand the popularity of this anti performance mod that started of having an open triangle,little tiny power stealing pods and a seat slammed down onto the frame(brats) that clearly interferes with supension rear wheel travel
people are like swarms of rabid, zombie,brain dead sheep to emulate this ridick-ulated, purely zero function , stricktly vain, poser, fashion styling circle jerk
and it looks fucking stupid to boot
 
Well, first off my seat is not that different from a tracker seat. Secondly, the carbs have been modded for more performance and the stock air cleaners are no longer necessary. I still have a fender in there, so it's not a totally open triangle and the carbs have K&N air filters which are in that triangle on a CB360. I have gained performance, not lost it. And all I did was move some things around. After 3500 miles in 4 months, I have not bumped the rear wheel yet. Maybe when I decide to say fuck it and start jumping the bike it will bump. As of yet, it hasn't happened.
 
your bike looks great it is the poor dumb bastards that follow all the useless styling trends and end up with a late term abortion, is what i was SPEWING about :)
 
xb33bsa said:
your bike looks great it is the poor dumb bastards that follow all the useless styling trends and end up with a late term abortion, is what i was spewing about :)
Click to expand...
Thanks, XB. Love you man. The internet confuses me, sometimes. ;D
 
xb33bsa said:
i still don't understand the popularity of this anti performance mod that started of having an open triangle,little tiny power stealing pods and a seat slammed down onto the frame(brats) that clearly interferes with supension rear wheel travel
people are like swarms of rabid, zombie,brain dead sheep to emulate this ridick-ulated, purely zero function , stricktly vain, poser, fashion styling circle jerk
and it looks fucking stupid to boot
Click to expand...
Its called your opinion. Stop acting like its fact. If we all went by your "opinion" or views we all would have the same looking motorcycle.

Jesus I'm getting tired of seeing your posts. Troll you are.....
 
You know what, sorry about the above post. No need for my rant. I apologize. Sorry for hijacking your thread.
 
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