Tube v tubless?

Q

quadracer351

Coast to Coast
I'm about to purchase some new tires for my 74 cb750 most likely going with 90 front 110 rear (unless anyone has better suggestions) all the tires I've been looking at are tubless but the tires I had on the bike had tubes when i removed them. Just wondering if I should purchase the tubes anyway and put them in. I'm sure this is a stupid question to most of you but this is my first bike build.


http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=50116.0
 
you will need inner tubes and go ahead and get some new rim straps
your rims have spokes so you must use innertubes,it is ok to use tubeless tires with tubes
while the tires are off is a good time to tune the spokes and re-true the wheel rim if needed
 
The tube inches measurement can just be found by measuring the around the rim? I have new rim straps already I was positive I would need those, the wheels have been completely disassembled, I re laced them and had a shop true them. Thank you for the help!
 
I'm not sure it crosses to motorcycle tires, but I deal with a lot of classic cars that need tubes for their wire wheels. Most people want modern, tubeless radials so we end up running tubes in them. It's fine, but it effectively lowers their speed rating by 1 position. i.e. if they were rated T (118mph) you lower that to S (112mph). This is due to the extra heat that builds up because of the tube that the manufacturers don't consider when making the tire.
 
Yup - you need tubes, and rim strips (they're rubber strips that cover up the spoke nipples on the inside of the rim to protect the tube). Some run 2 of the strips for extra protection. Some use duct tape instead and make a massive mess for the next owner to clean up. Don't be that guy.

As mentioned, tubes are sized to match the tires. They're assigned a range for width, like 90-100 for example, but only one diameter - 18", 19" etc.

All modern tires are 'tubeless' but that just means they form an airtight seal with the rim. If the rim is not airtight (i.e. spoked rims) then you need tubes.
 
Hey Quadracer!

You indeed CAN run tubeless on a spoke wheel.
You have to seal the rim!
I used GOOP sealant where the rim strip would be.
It worked great!
Give something like "sealing spoke wheels" a Google search and you'll see plenty of info.
I did this with my CB750-
 

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I would strongly advise you to run tubes in any wheel with wire spokes. Goop is not approved by any tire manufacturer, the DOT or anyone else as a safe alternative.

Some tires come in TT (tube type) as well as in TL (Tubeless). Krafty is correct that tubes in a TL tire reduces its rated speed.
 
Lots of bad reasons not to do that.

1. The rim bead area is a different shape than a tubeless rim. In an air out, the tubeless rim will retain the tire on the rim better.

2. Tubeless rim bead is smooth, designed to hold air.

3. Goop will seal till it falls off...then you have an unfixable flat.

4. If you need to adjust spokes or true wheel, goop will lose seal....

A tube is $5....about the cost of a tube of goop.

You can safely put a tube on a tubeless tire....

So why do it?
 
i run the tubliss front and back and love it
but not for the saved weight it only saves about 1/4 of a pound
 
I would love to run tubeless. Makes repairs so much easier. But I haven't seen a way that I would really trust
 
The rule is:
TT tire = needs tube no matter rim
TL Tire = needs tube if rim is TT, not if rim is TL
Some spoke wheels are factory TL but few and very expensive

Don't mess around with your tires, wrong size, wrong ratings and not running tubes if needed = death on a motorbike.

Flat tire in a cage is inconvienent. Flat tire on a bike at 60+MPH can be fatal
 
xb33bsa said:
http://tubliss.com/
Click to expand...

That's way cool.
100 bucks a rim though is a bit steep considering how many bikes I have hahaha.
Have to pay to play I suppose.
I wonder how it would hold up on the highway?
 
I have been using for a year fr and back on my sl, the longest hiway runs I do are 15-20 miles at 70+ no problems
the only issue is it takes a lot of weight to balance and you gotta check the pressure ever ride
I carry some air and sometimes air way down for the washboard gravel roads it is nice to be able to do without the danger of a pinched tube
also not to have to carry a tube,tire tools etc ,just a plug kit should do it and if ya have to you can ride on a flat without it coming off the bead(you would have to take it real easy but better than stranded)
think I paid about $85 a wheel
the amazing part is how secure it is 8) you air up the inner chamber first and it seats the bead 100% before you even air up the tire
 
Good to know!
The main bike I would want them for would be the KLR, so I'll have to see if I can find anyone who has put more highway miles on them.
It would be amazing to be able to plug a tire 500 miles from home on a dirt road/trail all alone. Rather than pull the tire and have to change a tube in the middle of nowhere.
 
the only drawback I have is the unsightly bundle of lead to balance the wheel ,reason is it has one large clincher bead locker deal that also is wear you enter tha main air
 
xb33bsa said:
the only drawback I have is the unsightly bundle of lead to balance the wheel ,reason is it has one large clincher bead locker deal that also is wear you enter tha main air
Click to expand...

It's a KLR, looks aren't my priority ;D
Thanks for the tip
 
Sorry guys haven't looked at this thread in a bit!! I have no problems running a tube at all just everything I was seeing when I went to purchase a tire was said to be tubeless.
 
Correct. Just slip a tube inside that tubeless tire and you are golden.

In fact I have a pair of early cast wheels ("mags") and they don't have the correct rim for tubeless tires and the wheel. The rims are designed to take tubes, but it would be easy to make a mistake and fit tires without tubes and if they are low on air, they will roll off the rim and deflate instantly. Not good.

It's OK to put a tube in a tubeless tire if the wheel needs it.
 
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