Turn Signal Relay Issue

so wait a sec...

are you saying,

Batter + -> Relay -> Switch "Grey" -> each ends Left and Right going to the + of LED and LED Neg going to ground?
 
Ok cool. now will i need a resister for the LEDs? please note im talking about the DASH leds as well.
 
Luis, from what I understand the electronic flasher eliminates the need for resistors on the flashers.

The dash is a totally different thing though, you will need resistors for those. I have a bookmark at home for a resistor calculator although the math is not complicated.
 
If you use an LED as 'idiot light' (P) just make sure it's wired the right way round.
Shouldn't need any resistors as long as you use 12V LED
 
devon said:
The dash is a totally different thing though, you will need resistors for those.

Yes, if you have one light on the dash for the turnsignals, it will most likely crossfeed and both sides of the bike will flash regardless of which side of the switch is on. You will need to add a diode into the wires that feed the dash light. This will stop the crossfeed, and allow the dash light to function normally. The "easy alternative" is to simply remove the turnsignal indicator bulb from the dash and ride without it. That will stop the crossfeed as well, you just need to remember to cancel your signals.
If you have two turnsignal indicator bulbs on the dash (one for each side), then it shouldn't crossfeed and the diodes aren't needed.
 
Redbird said:
Yes, if you have one light on the dash for the turnsignals, it will most likely crossfeed and both sides of the bike will flash regardless of which side of the switch is on. You will need to add a diode into the wires that feed the dash light. This will stop the crossfeed, and allow the dash light to function normally. The "easy alternative" is to simply remove the turnsignal indicator bulb from the dash and ride without it. That will stop the crossfeed as well, you just need to remember to cancel your signals.
If you have two turnsignal indicator bulbs on the dash (one for each side), then it shouldn't crossfeed and the diodes aren't needed.

That's why you use a 3 pin relay - to have a separate circuit for a single pilot light so it doesn't bleed over to the other indicators.
 
crazypj said:
If you use an LED as 'idiot light' (P) just make sure it's wired the right way round.
Shouldn't need any resistors as long as you use 12V LED

On Hondas (and probably other makes, too) this means use of diodes and installation of a ground wire coming from the idiot light.
 
Well fuck me sideways!!! Hillsy, I owe you a beer ;)

Much like Devon, while looking at the diagram you posted, I was scratching my head wondering what "Pilot" meant. Even after ADC answered Devon, it didn't register in my head. Now it makes perfect sense. Holy crap, that was like a smack to the brain!

Luis, forget what I said about the diodes. If you have one dash bulb, you use a three pin relay. If you have two dash bulbs you use a two pin relay. Post up what relay and dash bulb you have and somebody in here can get ya wired up properly. Either Hillsy, ADC, or (I'm confidant NOW that I can too) myself.
 
Sonreir said:
On Hondas (and probably other makes, too) this means use of diodes and installation of a ground wire coming from the idiot light.
My DS7 was the same way, and that's how I cured it too. But with the three pin relay, you should only have to run the "pilot" wire to one side of the single indicator and ground the other. After that it shouldn't matter if the indicator bulb is LED or incandescent.
 
perfect! im glad i keep asking questions :)

i have 2 LED dash lights and an integrated LED / brake / lic light stop light. i will post soon prob monday. this weekend im out of town.
 
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