Very clean 1970 CL175 Cafe racer. Fully rebuilt. $3500

avendlerdp

New Member
Very well constructed street or race bike ready to be daily driven anywhere any time. Electric start! Runs perfectly. Not a perfect show bike but presents well and is completely unique. Surprisingly fast and smooth riding. Perfect for around town fun.

Partial list of upgrades:

Engine completely rebuilt by Les Barker of Vintage Advantage.
Brand new pistons/rings
Full valve job with all new parts
HD timing chain
Adjustable timing sprocket
Screw secured engine seals
New clutch
All other engine internals are either new or rebuilt
Electric starter rebuilt
Keihin PE 24 carbs jetted perfectly
Pertronix ignition module
Dyna coils
Full fiberglass cafe body with amazing period paint-job.
Tank is sealed and safe for pump gas
Powder coated frame
Rebuilt forks with new seals
New rear shocks
New tires
New aluminum rims
New chain/sprockets
New cables
Custom rear-sets and controls
Clip on handle bars
Custom bare bones wiring harness

There's much more that I can't think of right now. No way one could duplicate this bike for what I am asking. Come check it out and see what I mean. Clean title currently registered in my name. Email me at: vendler.dp@gmail.com
 

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Re: Very clean 1970 CL160 Cafe racer. Fully rebuilt.

My gawd, that tank though.. I love it. GLWS.


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Re: Very clean 1970 CL160 Cafe racer. Fully rebuilt.

What is it? Looks like a CL175 with that typical pressed steel spine. And it says 175 on the side covers too. :-)
It's not a 160 motor or frame or forks....

I suspect that was just a typo.

Is the motor stock inside?
What bore size?
How much?
Why are those spokes so rusty on a rebuilt wheel?
Why are the handle bar mounts still there?
What is going on with those fork top nuts?
Front fender help on with zip ties? Seriously?
 
Re: Very clean 1970 CL160 Cafe racer. Fully rebuilt.

"No way one could duplicate this bike for what I am asking. "

Well, we may never know since you didn't include a price.
 
Re: Very clean 1970 CL160 Cafe racer. Fully rebuilt.

teazer said:
What is it? Looks like a CL175 with that typical pressed steel spine. And it says 175 on the side covers too. :-)
It's not a 160 motor or frame or forks....

Yes it's a 175. I made a typo!


I suspect that was just a typo.

Is the motor stock inside?
Other than valve train it's stock.
What bore size?
.5 mm over
How much?
$3500
Why are those spokes so rusty on a rebuilt wheel?
I re used stock spokes.
Why are the handle bar mounts still there?
I'm using the other end of them for tach mount. Might source correct hardware to fix that though.
What is going on with those fork top nuts?
I'm using a clamp type top tree and those nuts are left over from the bolt through type tree.
Front fender help on with zip ties?
Absolutely. That's how it's designed to be mounted. Those mil spec ties are very strong. Seriously?
not sure what you mean here. Bike runs perfectly though.
 
Those style fenders were designed to be retained with hose clamps. Not a whole lot stronger than zip ties but somewhat less likely to come loose or break.

I see what you mean about the fork nuts. One suggestion would be to get an early style top clamp and that would also potentially tidy up the tacho mount.

The question about rusty spokes was rhetorical. There is no reason to have rusty spokes on a rebuilt wheel. Plated spokes are not that expensive or just paint them.

That's a nice looking race type tank though.
 
Sorry about the spokes everyone! I started off with freshly wire-wheeled clean spokes but they got surface rust on them in like a week. I promise to never make that mistake again. As for the zip tied front fender, I stand by that. It's not going anywhere.

I have the old bolt through top tree if one wants that. I went with the clamp style for rigidity and to lower the front ride height a bit. It's clear from this thread that I should have probably never been born though.

All this said, if anyone wants to take pity on this barely held together pile of crap and come take a look at it please don't hesitate to get in touch. It really does run well and will give it's new owner years of trouble free service. Motor idles rock solid with nary a tick and pulls to redline with authority. Zero smoke zero leaks.

I also have a bunch of spares including a whole other used motor some hubs and lots of extra hardware too. An extra scrambler exhaust system and stock carbs too. All goes with the bike.
 
It's a nice bike and I'm sure it runs well. Zip ties or hose clamps - it's not a big deal. The spoke thing gets to me because it is an all too common mistake as people wire wheel parts and don't know that the gray coating they stripped off is actually zinc plating which protects the steel.

Fortunately the buyer can easily replace those with stainless or new OEM plated spokes or just throw some silver paint on them. :-)

I like that top clamp and if the buyer can find some later model fork legs to go with it, it will work even better. Not all 160/175/200 fork parts are interchangeable but many are. That gives the buyer a path to make it their own taking care of the small details.
 
So what's the asking price? There's a lot I like about it, something's I would change, but overall pretty good. I'm guessing by the plate your on the opposite coast from CT?
 
MBS-HondaGuy4Life said:
So what's the asking price? There's a lot I like about it, something's I would change, but overall pretty good. I'm guessing by the plate your on the opposite coast from CT?

Asking $3500. Open to offers of course!
 
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