What gearing are you running 350 F
- Thread starter 1fasgsxr
- Start date
carnivorous chicken
Over 1,000 Posts
Stock. Can wind it up to 80+, don't go much above that but it's got some more room. Cruises 75mph all day.
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
You need to have the wheels true and the correct torque on the axles also. Is this to just go as fast as you can or for a rider? Is the mile from start to stop or do you have room for run out?
If I were looking to see how fast the 350 would go before my nerves cave in, I would go down a tooth up front and like XB says down a tooth aft until you cant make power ie the bike stalls like an airplane, sometimes if the clutch is weak you will roast it and over rev the motor too so be cool.
I see many push off starts to get the ton done hahaha!
If I were looking to see how fast the 350 would go before my nerves cave in, I would go down a tooth up front and like XB says down a tooth aft until you cant make power ie the bike stalls like an airplane, sometimes if the clutch is weak you will roast it and over rev the motor too so be cool.
I see many push off starts to get the ton done hahaha!
1fasgsxr
Over 1,000 Posts
I am going to try and run the Ohio Mile this year. It is a standing start 1 mile run. You dont get many passes in on a weekend race, maybe 3 a day. Dont have anywhere really to test unles I do like "Street Outlaws" and go make a test hit on the streets...lol. I was going to try and get some differents sizes but dont want to waste money on useless sizes. I know the bike will be lucky to have 40 hp so my expectations are not real high..
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
You may have to shave... everything :-X
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Depending on activity the night before... even your teeth. I am looking forward to hearing how this turns out.
Also any update keeps the thread active and someone with good info may drop in... ya never know
Also any update keeps the thread active and someone with good info may drop in... ya never know
3 words -total loss ignition ,dont even think about it just do it ,all you need is a healthy battery
total loss as in remove the stator rotor ,just rig up a simple 3 wire race harness no lights no nothing just on/off 12v to the coils leave your harnmess but just unhook it from battery and unplug power to coils
no need to be loosing a cupl hp making lectricity ,paras-icktik drag, and the lighter crank rotation may help accel but gearing is still critical overall weight on the bike itself is a waste of time really unless you really,really lighten it up .top speed is not increased with less weight
skinny,light hi-pressur in the tires will help accel some..get some pizza panms and disc the wheels...make a cardboard dustbin fairing etc direct all airflow around and over not through the bike
wheni was a kid i did total loss on my mxer at the time a 1972 xl250 good lord shedding 8 lbs from the crank made a huge difference in fact it was not ridable in the dirt ,at least njot in the muddy winter when i experiment with it but your f has a much lighter smaller rotor and you are on pavement
a shift light is a good idea too, watching the tach can be tough actually
total loss as in remove the stator rotor ,just rig up a simple 3 wire race harness no lights no nothing just on/off 12v to the coils leave your harnmess but just unhook it from battery and unplug power to coils
no need to be loosing a cupl hp making lectricity ,paras-icktik drag, and the lighter crank rotation may help accel but gearing is still critical overall weight on the bike itself is a waste of time really unless you really,really lighten it up .top speed is not increased with less weight
skinny,light hi-pressur in the tires will help accel some..get some pizza panms and disc the wheels...make a cardboard dustbin fairing etc direct all airflow around and over not through the bike
wheni was a kid i did total loss on my mxer at the time a 1972 xl250 good lord shedding 8 lbs from the crank made a huge difference in fact it was not ridable in the dirt ,at least njot in the muddy winter when i experiment with it but your f has a much lighter smaller rotor and you are on pavement
a shift light is a good idea too, watching the tach can be tough actually
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
A one shot of NOS through third gear would be good ;D maybe weld a small section of frame into a tank an just have cable pull valve 8)
1fasgsxr
Over 1,000 Posts
Damon the GSXR is an 02 model with a 6 inch stretch . Nothing special especially since i cant get it to fire !! I ran it at the 1/4 a few times with a best pass of 9.40 @142 mph. I had some head work done and put cams in it and fucked something up in the wiring harness and now it wont fire... Tune I do have a NX kit that could be hooked up ;D
redwillissuperman
Keep it simple- engine, wheels, bars
How big of a guy are you? What are the rules for stock versus streamlining?
If stock is stock, do this:
- loosen valve clearance to max setting
- remove front fender
- wrap exhaust pipes individually and then mummy style creating and air dam.
- lower front end (contrary to high speed stability theory but you want minimal gap from headlight to tire)
- install "big headlight" backwards
- remove gauges
- remove seat (if allowed) to hide rider behind tank to maximum effect
- max out chain adjusters for longest wheelbase
- stuff closed cell foam between tank and frame backbone
- Bob rear fender to be tangent to the top of the tire, parallel frame
- run Sunoco EXO2 fuel which means you will need to jet up 5 at least on mains and pilots. Keep cold and put it at last moment as it is highly evaporative
- run a total loss ignition with a 14.5V battery if not 16V
- stop eating now. Drop 30lbs by race day.
Read this about gearing. I would start with 16/34, and would try a 18 countershaft sprocket if your bike has the beans. You will need a new and stronger clutch unless you can be pushed. Switch to a 520 or smaller chain with aluminum sprockets.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm
If stock is stock, do this:
- loosen valve clearance to max setting
- remove front fender
- wrap exhaust pipes individually and then mummy style creating and air dam.
- lower front end (contrary to high speed stability theory but you want minimal gap from headlight to tire)
- install "big headlight" backwards
- remove gauges
- remove seat (if allowed) to hide rider behind tank to maximum effect
- max out chain adjusters for longest wheelbase
- stuff closed cell foam between tank and frame backbone
- Bob rear fender to be tangent to the top of the tire, parallel frame
- run Sunoco EXO2 fuel which means you will need to jet up 5 at least on mains and pilots. Keep cold and put it at last moment as it is highly evaporative
- run a total loss ignition with a 14.5V battery if not 16V
- stop eating now. Drop 30lbs by race day.
Read this about gearing. I would start with 16/34, and would try a 18 countershaft sprocket if your bike has the beans. You will need a new and stronger clutch unless you can be pushed. Switch to a 520 or smaller chain with aluminum sprockets.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm
excellent red this is a great thread
428 chain lighter l;ess drag plenty srtong unless maybe you clutch the 350f up onto willies all thetime
if dont go the428 route there are still many things to check if all of these were infail mode it wouls defo cause some accel hinderence very smallbut these checks are free:
as redwill super said string line the wheels make sure they are paralell and in th same centre line track
with the bikd on centerstand spin wheel look at the bottom run if it is going tight loose tight loose tight loose as you gently spin the wheel it should be looked into
make sure the sprockets are not grossly out of parallel but you must string line wheel track first
it could be one of 2 -3 things or a combo you really need a 1" travel dial indicator to check the most common cause which is rear sprocket ,its either machined off center or loose on the regisster which allows it to be installed off center
its possible the sprocket wear is uneven but not likely
chain could be worn more in one section
strutrs in the rear could help,the chain can be run at the ideal minimal slack which reduces slightly powerit saps
look at pics of some record holders if the runnin struts it may be a good thing
make sure chain is very good condition clean,lightly lubed ...non oring prefverably
428 chain lighter l;ess drag plenty srtong unless maybe you clutch the 350f up onto willies all thetime
if dont go the428 route there are still many things to check if all of these were infail mode it wouls defo cause some accel hinderence very smallbut these checks are free:
as redwill super said string line the wheels make sure they are paralell and in th same centre line track
with the bikd on centerstand spin wheel look at the bottom run if it is going tight loose tight loose tight loose as you gently spin the wheel it should be looked into
make sure the sprockets are not grossly out of parallel but you must string line wheel track first
it could be one of 2 -3 things or a combo you really need a 1" travel dial indicator to check the most common cause which is rear sprocket ,its either machined off center or loose on the regisster which allows it to be installed off center
its possible the sprocket wear is uneven but not likely
chain could be worn more in one section
strutrs in the rear could help,the chain can be run at the ideal minimal slack which reduces slightly powerit saps
look at pics of some record holders if the runnin struts it may be a good thing
make sure chain is very good condition clean,lightly lubed ...non oring prefverably
1fasgsxr
Over 1,000 Posts
Stock is 100 % stock.. other than removing mirrors or signals.I will be running in modified production for the frame "class" and modified engine "class". " The motorcycle must appear identical in all aspects to the production model it represents, including the air intake box and exhaust system." straight from the rule book for production class.