Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build

"The miss fire was still there and Tim quickly diagnosed He explained that the Dyna S is very susceptible to damage if the rotor and pickups touch as ours had done earlier this year." http://www.thefang.co.uk/news2013.html


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Every connection is soldered, tach installed (works great) , new mini 15 am fuse holder, gapped the plugs to .035", removed on off switch. Seems to have gone away rev'd it to 9k and held it there no blip. Installed the 16/33 sprocket combo. Need to run another ground wire to the dyna plate. Time for another run.


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xb33bsa said:
you can also put the contact breaker points back in ,as the process of elimination if need be
I have a new set of jap points if you need them
thanks Xb we have a few around the shop.


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simo said:
I was wondering the same , 90 deg of advance ( or whatever it was off by) is going to mess with everything
ck'd the plugs may be a little rich does not pull as hard and I had to roll off the throttle slightly to get it to continue up the revs.


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FYI she starts no problem 75mph 4th gear with the 17/33 gearing but gearing won't work for COTA, had no tach on this run so was conservative needs more advance... http://youtu.be/YEhZvB2G8cs



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I have a question on the Dyno we were far advanced but yet our fuel ratio was good how do you know if you have too much advance?


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Our taylor 8mm spiro core had 637 ohms resistance and our MSD for the same length (24inches) had 89 ohms resistance
saqebere.jpg



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Texasstar said:
I have a question on the Dyno we were far advanced but yet our fuel ratio was good how do you know if you have too much advance?

Usually a quick check of the plug electrodes will show if it's getting too hot. Best way is on the dyno - do a timing swing. ie start at say 35 degrees and run it, then 40 then 45 then 50 - if it didn't already peak before then and then back it off slightly. Every motor is different but don't be surprised if it like 40-45 degrees of advance and maybe even more.
 
Texasstar said:
Our taylor 8mm spiro core had 637 ohms resistance and our MSD for the same length (24inches) had 89 ohms resistance


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I hate carbon leads, don't care how they are made and what internals they have, soild copper and resistor plug caps just work better
 
crazypj said:
I hate carbon leads, don't care how they are made and what internals they have, soild copper and resistor plug caps just work better
after wrestling non resistor screw type plug caps on the 8.5mm msd wires I agree with you...


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Is a little reistance between the coil and spark a good thing? I thought a little suppression lenghtened the time the spark arced getting a more consistent burn. But this may be wrong
 
Texasstar said:
after wrestling non resistor screw type plug caps on the 8.5mm msd wires I agree with you...

Tex, get a pack of crimp on plug caps from somewhere like Moroso - Summit etc. Carbon leads should not have screw in caps. The screw cuts teh carbon filaments.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/ignition-installing-spark-plug-wire-terminals.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-72070?seid=srese1&gclid=COX4wJqZxMACFSsV7AodCTsALQ

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-72071?seid=srese1&gclid=CMWKka2ZxMACFcZQ7AodUFQAWw
 
teazer said:
Tex, get a pack of crimp on plug caps from somewhere like Moroso - Summit etc. Carbon leads should not have screw in caps. The screw cuts teh carbon filaments.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/ignition-installing-spark-plug-wire-terminals.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-72070?seid=srese1&gclid=COX4wJqZxMACFSsV7AodCTsALQ

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-72071?seid=srese1&gclid=CMWKka2ZxMACFcZQ7AodUFQAWw
OK well we may have found a gremlin...I had the screw type plugs in the Taylors also and they were suppression core. Double whammy. Now those megaphones will show you all your mistakes won't they? I have the correct crimp plug caps for the msd but was trying to think (overthink) why the NGK iridium plugs are shipped without the screw caps. Now don't laugh or shake your head in disgust but you can wrap a significant amount of the spiral core around the screw...expensive lesson learned. Crazypj was right.


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simo said:
Is a little reistance between the coil and spark a good thing? I thought a little suppression lenghtened the time the spark arced getting a more consistent burn. But this may be wrong
You are right! I fell prey to marketing BS. Where we have a problem is double suppression. The iridium plugs have a resistor and the plug wires also were suppressing the spark. They say the best is copper core (little resistance) with no suppression caps but that is what caused that annoying interference I had in my radio as a kid when my neighbor would fire up his race rm125. Now that would really hack off my neighbors but I wouldn't mind running them to interfere with the annoying Female Spanish Preacher Lady with the PA system at my neighbors house on the next street. What is louder then megaphones at 10k? Yep the annoying Spanish Preacher lady wins...ask me how I know?


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Called NGK tech support and they said the DR8eix doesn't come with a screw on cap because they have had misfires and failures with high vibration. They have no alternative in a non removable cap for our size. So we are back to copper core with nonresistor screw in plug caps if want to use the iridiums. Well that was the long road less traveled.


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simo said:
Is a little reistance between the coil and spark a good thing? I thought a little suppression lenghtened the time the spark arced getting a more consistent burn. But this may be wrong

That's why you use 10K plug caps with solid core leads (or 5k and resistor plugs ;) )
 
simo said:
Check all the connections as well, including the leads and plug caps
Is there any way to get a better connection between the cap and lead ( assuming you go back to copper core)? Dipping the tip of the lead in solder so there's a better seat for the screw?
 
simo said:
Is there any way to get a better connection between the cap and lead ( assuming you go back to copper core)? Dipping the tip of the lead in solder so there's a better seat for the screw?
my friend Brian Hobbs of Hobbsracecraft said, "you can build a fire like a caveman with a stick or you can build it like a spaceman with a laser but you are still building a fire Tex and when we go to the race track all that fancy shit goes out the window and we revert back to what works"


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