Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build
- Thread starter Texasstar
- Start date
+1 on the switches.
Rubber mount that battery. We had an annoying misfire even with a rubber mounted battery and we found that at race revs the things moved enough to touch the frame and the vibration was the problem.
I never use an auto advance. On a CB77 racer we had timing swings that were caused by cam chain oscillations, so after that I moved the ignition to the crank.
Rubber mount that battery. We had an annoying misfire even with a rubber mounted battery and we found that at race revs the things moved enough to touch the frame and the vibration was the problem.
I never use an auto advance. On a CB77 racer we had timing swings that were caused by cam chain oscillations, so after that I moved the ignition to the crank.
I had a switch like that act funny. The problem was the solder joints touched the bars and shorted out. And the on being the off one off being on deal. FishyTexasstar said:Our on off switch is on when it is off and off when it is on
Lose that switch. Put a heavy duty toggle with sealed cap
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Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Put dampening material under battery and took the bike out for a speed run...road passed the Sheriff parked under a tree and waved he waved....lit the megaphones up still had a misfire came home passed the Sheriff again he waved and smiled I waved and smiled...God I love Texas.
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Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Were you using a relay in the ignition circuit?
I have the same on/off ignition switch. Earlier I had it wired directly to the coil and it didn't like it in the higher rpms. I think it was arcing to the handlebars...
I reconfigured it so that the switch operates a relay to apply power to the coil. After adding the relay my ignition troubles disappeared.
Just food for thought.
I have the same on/off ignition switch. Earlier I had it wired directly to the coil and it didn't like it in the higher rpms. I think it was arcing to the handlebars...
I reconfigured it so that the switch operates a relay to apply power to the coil. After adding the relay my ignition troubles disappeared.
Just food for thought.
Texasstar said:
By the block of plate you mean his left side plate that fits between the side of the crankcase and the left side cover? To be honest we don't bother with one even though a DYNA S is supposedly not rated for oil immersion, we just get an aluminum disk machined that bolts inside the cover in place of the alternator stator and bolt the pickup to that. Obviously the crank end has to be "sawn" off or the rotor taper bored. If that's not an option, spin the motor over as you grind the crank end with an angle grinder after you mask everything off to keep metal out of the crankcase.
That's only recommended for emergency repair work at the track but some years later, I have not felt the need to re machine it more accurately. Only grind it down as far as the locating peg- you need that.
I think you have a picture of our Crank on Dyna set up. You will need one pickup and one magnet and if you screw up the rotor, they'll sell you another but check what the rotor number is - there are several options with one magnet or two and with the magnets in different places. PM me if you need more details.
You could also try an auto timing light when the bike is running hard on the dyno to see if it "blinks". But clean up the wiring and grounds first and add a ground to the points plate and run it back to the battery ground.
You could also have a good look at the fuse holder and fuse to see if there's a bad/loose connection there.
