1974 CB360 "Pickled"

Today I had some extra time so I installed the head again and finished up with the cam and chain. I went over the manual several times so Im thinking I have everything correct. I did have a bit of side to side play with the cam and the head but I didn't have any gauges for measuring so I moved ahead and bolted it together anyways. I did read the tolerance spec's within the manual and guessed I was within that. I have most everything squared away on the motor and Im trying to decide if I want to do anything with the head cover or if I should just leave it and finally get the motor together. I polished it a little but Im nearing crunch time. Anyones thoughts? Im sure theres hundreds of motors posted on DTT but I figured what the heck, whats one more?
 

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Bolt it together - bare aluminum is the best finish for an engine.

On the side-to-side cam play, make sure your bearings are sitting where they should be with any necessary shims between them and the cam (not sure how your engine compares with an XS, but on mine there are 2 bearings on each end of the cam, and they need to be set inboard enough to ensure minimal side-to-side play and room for the seals that go on the outside).
 
I have the shim installed. ;) I had read in the manual that either an additional shim can be added or a bigger shim, I forget what it said exactly. I didn't feel that the side to side play warranted any special changes so I just bolted it up.
 

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I forgot to add that my rubber carb intakes are near rock hard. Im guessing they should work but will they make a good seal? No cracks or anything.
 
There are ways to 'restore' the pliability of the rubber - I think you stick them in a ziplock with some lube or something - Google that.
 
Tim, thanks for the tip on the cam sprocket bolts. I wasn't sure loctite would hold up to the hot an oily environment so I wasn't going to add it. I will be sure to redoe them with a dab of loctite. ;) I have some old RC car tire compound that I tried on the intakes but nothing seemed to happen. I will check on it and let you know what I find. Here's a pic of the sprocket I purchased from speed moto. Looks pretty good for now. I may have some machining done to it later.
 

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You must have a set of feeler gauges? Stack couple together to get actual clearance. Should be OK as is though.
I've tried various things to soften old manifolds, except wintergreen oil. So far, nothing has really worked so wintergreen will be next step (and if that fails, new manifolds)
 
Re: 1974 CB360 "Pickled"

I've heard a hot soak in wintergreen oil and xylene mixture works wonders, and have seen photos to prove it. It took some old Honda Dream foot pegs with the old Honda cursive logo on them and totally renewed them. They were old and crusty before and soft, black, and pliable after.

Mind you, the rubber part will swell significantly, and it takes a couple hours to reduce back to normal size.

Be careful when heating xylene, highly flammable
 
plagrone said:
I've heard a hot soak in wintergreen oil and xylene mixture works wonders, and have seen photos to prove it. It took some old Honda Dream foot pegs with the old Honda cursive logo on them and totally renewed them. They were old and crusty before and soft, black, and pliable after.

Mind you, the rubber part will swell significantly, and it takes a couple hours to reduce back to normal size.

Be careful when heating xylene, highly flammable

That is the mixture I was trying to remember, there is a thread on it here someplace. Maybe yours Plagrone? Anyway the pics look convincing that it works. Something I have done when there are pin holes in the boots is wrap them in self fusing tape, It works and is fuel and UV stable. Did my CX500 boots with it and they have held up great for 1 full season with no signs of needing a redo.
 
I just ordered dome wintergreen oil. I have read, mixing the oil with acetone, alcohol and laquer thinner all have good results. I have experience with all three chemicals and xylene can melt certain rubbers so that will be something I will have to keep a eye on. Sounds like it won't be in for about a week so I will need to find something else to work on for a while
 
Xylene wintergreen oil 12hrs
 

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I'm also struggling to get the cylinder cover on because the cam lobes are hitting the rocker arms. I have turned the motor over so I can get the cover on but should I be concerned that the parts will be hitting the cover while the motor is running?
 
Sorry to get here late. But perhaps things are not so bad. Consider the concoction you are using. You can submerge hard old manifolds in pure methyl salicylate (wintergreen oil) for a year and hardly notice a difference. Or, you can submerge them in the pure carrier (xylene, benzene, acetone, etc), and get all sorts of ill effects in a short time (depending on what you use and the material of the manifolds). The MS has a hard time infiltrating the manifold by itself, but mix it with the xylene for example, and it gets soaked up like a sponge. Unfortunately along with the xylene. Let your manifolds sit around for a week and see if the xylene evaporates out leaving some of the MS. Maybe you will be ok. This trick is usually somewhat temporary (softening the manifolds) anyway, but lets you re-use the otherwise impossibly hard manifolds at least to get your bike back together. You very likely will find out your manifolds are once again uselessly hard next year, but if you do not take it apart too often, it will be ok. So keep an eye on them and put the carbs on as soon as they have shrunk back down enough - they will eventually get hard again. A lot depends on your mix. I think the best results are had with more soak time and more MS and less carrier to increase the MS absorption and minimize the inflation, but have not done enough experimenting to offer any better advice than a generality.
However, I can tell you that Loctite works great in oily environments, but not really at all on oily parts, Clean your cam sprocket and bolts (and anything else you would prefer to not disassemble itself while in service) with acetone before using the Loctite, or you may end up unfairly condemning a good product (and good advice!).
I don't know about the rocker interference problem might be off hand - been a while since I had one apart. If it obviously turns over smoothly with the cover on tight, it is likely ok though.
 
That sounds like a fair theory. I was thinking about new rubber anyways. until then, hopefully the xylene will evaporate out to make them useful for a while. I picked up some thread bond 1104. I spread it on both pieces, tried to put the cover on and found it wouldn't fit. It left a mess so I had to clean it off and find out what the issue was :mad:. I'm guessing once the cover is on, the rocker arm will put more pressure on the valve and keep it from hitting the cover. I'm new to this so feel free to correct me. Lol
 
Did you loosen all the valve adjusters before trying to fit cover?
I back them off until they are level with 'underneath' of rocker arm (you always need to 're-do' valve clearance if motor has been apart)
Cam lobe one side will be 'pushing' on at least 1 valve although two on overlap would be correct
 
Thanks, I was able to take your advice and everything worked out slick. I don't have a feeler gauges so I will need to pick up a set before moving ahead. On another note, the rubber boot that had expanded beyond use has shrunk and is now able to slip over the carb and under the plate. Its soft and fits so I just threw my other one in for the night. Thanks
 

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