1971 CL450 build. (not fancy, but complete...)
- Thread starter sleazy
- Start date
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
Yeah that was the first pic I could find, I believe the fellow went back and redid.
Next time you have the engine out, leave the kicker on, makes a nice handle. Pull the starter too gives more room.
I know day late dollar short, I had hardly any issues installing the frame onto my engine when she went in. Laid the engine on its side on a milk crate and tipped the frame over onto it. Seriously just slid right on, few bolts in and tipped it back up and finished the job.
Next time you have the engine out, leave the kicker on, makes a nice handle. Pull the starter too gives more room.
I know day late dollar short, I had hardly any issues installing the frame onto my engine when she went in. Laid the engine on its side on a milk crate and tipped the frame over onto it. Seriously just slid right on, few bolts in and tipped it back up and finished the job.
sleazy
"everyone has a plan…"
a thorough garage clean, tools back in place, and a pretty good inspection/list as to what's left to do. but today, motor mounts on with brand new shiny fasteners…
and the start of the electrics. the unexperienced eye simply sees an odd perspective of an engine case:
but anyone thats done this before sees the starter wire snaking its way along its course. brand new wire, and end piece -stock rubber boot.
and up, down and around and up and thru to the rear seat, where everything is now moved to.
and the start of the electrics. the unexperienced eye simply sees an odd perspective of an engine case:
but anyone thats done this before sees the starter wire snaking its way along its course. brand new wire, and end piece -stock rubber boot.
and up, down and around and up and thru to the rear seat, where everything is now moved to.
sleazy
"everyone has a plan…"
and here we are with some pictures of things up to this point:
its interesting that things look like they are moving along, but i'd gauge us at only about 60% of the way done. so much fit and finish to do. electrics to sort out and wire. exhaust should be here shortly. -a long list yet to go.
its interesting that things look like they are moving along, but i'd gauge us at only about 60% of the way done. so much fit and finish to do. electrics to sort out and wire. exhaust should be here shortly. -a long list yet to go.
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
Looks fantastic.
If you aren't putting high pipes on it, then CB was probably the right choice. I tell people mine is a CL and even the Honda guys look at me funny.
If you aren't putting high pipes on it, then CB was probably the right choice. I tell people mine is a CL and even the Honda guys look at me funny.
sleazy
"everyone has a plan…"
with the big showy stuff on hold until i get the exorst in.. its time to turn attention to some far smaller, hardly ever seen, yet perhaps just as important details -the electric components. almost everything on the bike -electrically- needs to be replaced. the stuff is just far too gone. but this little guy made me think a little bit...
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=60540.0
having never worked with this exact item, i wasn't sure as to how much pressure it took to get the thing rotating. was mine stuck, or did it just require more force?
a little post to the electrical forum brought out the experts.
so got a pan that the wife wouldn't freak out about, and heated her up in some oil.
even after boiling in oil- she still wouldn't turn. so did it again and while still hot, i VERY LIGHTLY, held it in a vise -used the thinnest/most aggressive channel locks i had (see the teeth back in the jaw?)… and even then it was a bastard getting her to move.
nonetheless- it finally came apart.
cleaned her up with a worn scotchbrite wheel:
and burnished it with a copper wire wheel.
had to really grind away the 40+ years of grease and crap that was clogging things up.
and if you happen to have one about… a .45 bore brush works wonderfully to clean out the cam-hole… (and master link pliers do a great job of resetting the "c" or "e" clips
i was a little hesitant about what to lube it with as you don't want things to get too messy as it will fly all over the points, it is not lubed by the engine oil circuits, and you don't want anything too heavy that can accumulate dirt. so i chose a thin coat of assembly lube and wiped off all excess. if anyone has any other ideas/experiences- please feel free to chime in.
mmmm…. all nice and clean, and working BEAUTIFULLY.
and back on the bike.
just one of many many details that take time and attention. the reason a good build takes time. and a little more than the 48 minutes of an edited and cut/spliced episode of Cafe Racers.
exhaust should be arriving this week.
can't wait.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=60540.0
having never worked with this exact item, i wasn't sure as to how much pressure it took to get the thing rotating. was mine stuck, or did it just require more force?
a little post to the electrical forum brought out the experts.
so got a pan that the wife wouldn't freak out about, and heated her up in some oil.
even after boiling in oil- she still wouldn't turn. so did it again and while still hot, i VERY LIGHTLY, held it in a vise -used the thinnest/most aggressive channel locks i had (see the teeth back in the jaw?)… and even then it was a bastard getting her to move.
nonetheless- it finally came apart.
cleaned her up with a worn scotchbrite wheel:
and burnished it with a copper wire wheel.
had to really grind away the 40+ years of grease and crap that was clogging things up.
and if you happen to have one about… a .45 bore brush works wonderfully to clean out the cam-hole… (and master link pliers do a great job of resetting the "c" or "e" clips
i was a little hesitant about what to lube it with as you don't want things to get too messy as it will fly all over the points, it is not lubed by the engine oil circuits, and you don't want anything too heavy that can accumulate dirt. so i chose a thin coat of assembly lube and wiped off all excess. if anyone has any other ideas/experiences- please feel free to chime in.
mmmm…. all nice and clean, and working BEAUTIFULLY.
and back on the bike.
just one of many many details that take time and attention. the reason a good build takes time. and a little more than the 48 minutes of an edited and cut/spliced episode of Cafe Racers.
exhaust should be arriving this week.
can't wait.
sleazy
"everyone has a plan…"
...aaaaaaaand carbs.
for a primer, take a moment to have a look back at page one. remember what was growing in the intake throats? well, all that gelled/bad/shellac-ed gasoline and water must've come from SOMEWHERE? right?
outside: oxidized and rough. pretty much on par with the state of every other component on the bike...
oh, ho ho... but just wait until the inside:
yeah, pretty bad.
but there's a good side to this story...
mmmm.... back from the dead:
for a primer, take a moment to have a look back at page one. remember what was growing in the intake throats? well, all that gelled/bad/shellac-ed gasoline and water must've come from SOMEWHERE? right?
outside: oxidized and rough. pretty much on par with the state of every other component on the bike...
oh, ho ho... but just wait until the inside:
yeah, pretty bad.
but there's a good side to this story...
mmmm.... back from the dead:
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
How did you clean yours?
Also as a heads up, at least on mine, there is a little play in the top cap until you tighten them down. Moving the top caps even slightly can keep the slides from moving up and down freely. I always, make sure my slides are moving nicely before tightening the bolts for the top caps.
Also as a heads up, at least on mine, there is a little play in the top cap until you tighten them down. Moving the top caps even slightly can keep the slides from moving up and down freely. I always, make sure my slides are moving nicely before tightening the bolts for the top caps.
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
frogman said:
I can't read the stampings on the carb bodies, so hopefully they are the same. They certainly have different bowls.
sleazy
"everyone has a plan…"
frogman said:
when you live in a cave, all you know are rocks.
all i can say is that these are the carbs that came on the bike. as these are the only vintage honda carbies i've ever worked with- i just assumed the asymmetry was intentional and not something to worry about.
regardless, the floats float. the slides go up and down. all passages and circuits are clear. jetting is the same between the two... we'll see if they work here shortly. (still waiting on exhaust and some electrics)
btw-
while i have y'alls ears... anyone know where i can find a CORRECT speedo cable? ive ordered three speedo cables so far -all of them claiming to be exactly what i need- and all of them are the same damn motion pro cable.
the problem is at the wheel. the one everyone thinks should be for a CB/CL450 has an end about half the diameter of what i need.
can only post this pic now, so cant show relative size difference- but the threaded piece out of the speedo drive is about the diameter of a nickle. the ones everyone tries to sell me has the diameter closer to a dime.
am i making any sense?
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
You and I have some of the same problems, we both have 71 bikes and Honda made many changes to the 72 models. CB's have the older 750 front ends and you have the older 60's model front end. No big deal just finding parts will be a bit harder.
You need this something that looks like this. This is for a CL77 bike which has some of the same parts as 450's do. This is giving you an idea.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CL77-CL72-Scrambler-Speedometer-Cable-44830-346-750-New-Reproduction-/301191919811?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item46206ff8c3&vxp=mtr
THIS is labeled for the 450 but DOUBLE that price, notice that they are pretty much the same.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Honda-1962-1966-CB93-CB160-CL160-CL72-CL77-CB450-Speedometer-Cable-/150992985792?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2327e21ec0&vxp=mtr
You can convert the front end over to the newer style but that will take the speedo drive and possibly the spacers and of course the cable.
Screw around on ebay a while you may find one that is cheaper. I bought one like these because it was the grey cable and modified it for use with the other kind of connection.
You need this something that looks like this. This is for a CL77 bike which has some of the same parts as 450's do. This is giving you an idea.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CL77-CL72-Scrambler-Speedometer-Cable-44830-346-750-New-Reproduction-/301191919811?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item46206ff8c3&vxp=mtr
THIS is labeled for the 450 but DOUBLE that price, notice that they are pretty much the same.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Honda-1962-1966-CB93-CB160-CL160-CL72-CL77-CB450-Speedometer-Cable-/150992985792?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2327e21ec0&vxp=mtr
You can convert the front end over to the newer style but that will take the speedo drive and possibly the spacers and of course the cable.
Screw around on ebay a while you may find one that is cheaper. I bought one like these because it was the grey cable and modified it for use with the other kind of connection.
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
Heh, no problem I have the same issue with front brake pads. I have to order 750 pads from around 1970 to get the right ones. 
Parts fiches on online parts seller's websites are really freaking handy for things like this. If the part number is the same for different bikes its still the same part.
Parts fiches on online parts seller's websites are really freaking handy for things like this. If the part number is the same for different bikes its still the same part.
sleazy
"everyone has a plan…"
frozen/locked and stripped out screws? why should this component be any different from the rest?
thank god the local hardware store has an incredibly thorough collection of fasteners.
btw- new points/contacts off ebay. the solid black (far left) is aftermarket, the slightly reddish (looks like 50's bakelite, right) is genuine NOS Honda. otherwise, seemingly identical.
thank god the local hardware store has an incredibly thorough collection of fasteners.
btw- new points/contacts off ebay. the solid black (far left) is aftermarket, the slightly reddish (looks like 50's bakelite, right) is genuine NOS Honda. otherwise, seemingly identical.
sleazy
"everyone has a plan…"
if the above pic is used as a "before" pic, then here is the "after":
the discerning eye will notice i even sprung for a new oiling felt! btw- the Jingrish factory manual says to "grease" the felt. but its called an "oil" felt. any recommendations as to what to put on it?
the discerning eye will notice i even sprung for a new oiling felt! btw- the Jingrish factory manual says to "grease" the felt. but its called an "oil" felt. any recommendations as to what to put on it?
sleazy
"everyone has a plan…"
a few posts back, there was some chatter about speedo cables for 71s being hard to find. Frogman posted an item on ebay and it just came it:
sellers name is "scoutkb" and was very helpful. cable was listed for a CL77, CL72, CL160, CB160… and fits perfectly.
i left a few threads undone for the pic, but once tightened up- i couldn't ask for a more perfect fit.
book calls for part number 44830-292-030 ('71 CL450) which does not correlate to any part number listed by the seller.
44831-346-750
44831-273-000
44831-216-000
44830-283-010
44830-283-000
44830-273-000
44830-216-000
hopefully this helps somebody out there find a cable with less hassle.
sellers name is "scoutkb" and was very helpful. cable was listed for a CL77, CL72, CL160, CB160… and fits perfectly.
i left a few threads undone for the pic, but once tightened up- i couldn't ask for a more perfect fit.
book calls for part number 44830-292-030 ('71 CL450) which does not correlate to any part number listed by the seller.
44831-346-750
44831-273-000
44831-216-000
44830-283-010
44830-283-000
44830-273-000
44830-216-000
hopefully this helps somebody out there find a cable with less hassle.
