1973 1/2 BMW R60/5 restoration.

The RP cables have the bend in them - a nice smooth curved metal sleeve that threads into the top of the Mikuni. Only problem is the curved sleeve is locked onto the cable - the small barrel on the cable can't slide through it. So you can't replace those metal sleeves if/when the threads strip where they mount to the carb tops.

Mikuni sells (I think) curved adjusters - I'd have rather that RP included a pair of those with the cables. They let the cable ends slide through. I just don't like anything with threads and a lock nut permanently part of the cable.

For unscrewing the top of the carbs, I pull the cable end out of the curved adjuster and then carefully unscrew the top. Just a pain is all.

Kanticoy said:
Oh man, it's a nightmare. That and lining up the little grommet that goes around the points wire to get it to match up with the front cover. Ridiculous. I need the curved top for mine unless the cables are overly long from Rocky Point. The problem with the stock R60 cables is that when they come out of the normal top cap adjuster, the cables turn toward the frame and there's a pretty significant kink there. I know the cable is rubbing on the inside of the sheath when it is that severe of a bend and is only a matter of time before it fails. And I will be loading up soon man! I cut corners due to some funds like not going immediately with the Enduralast alternator ($500) and instead doing a /6 conversion for 240W ($55). I sourced the /6 diode board and the stator for that shipped. Good deal for me. Both tested good. I did grab a thunderchild regulator (being shipped). I didn't replace the coils. Apparently the Bosch units are indestructable and mine give a huge fat spark. I also held off for now on the ignition ($200+) because I focused on what I needed to get her on the road. Shocks and exhaust took a big enough bite! Here is an R60/5 carb...

FUR59265.jpg


See the curved outlet? It needs that. I'll see if I can dig up the binding picture. I'm actually relieved the RP cables come with the bend...

Edit: see the kink? I don't like it.

eqa4a4ej.jpg
 
Thanks Mike!

And Tim, I gotcha now. I can see what you mean about it being a pain now. Kind of makes changing needle clip position a turd doesn't it! Speaking of which, where did you end up on that with yours? I started middle clip for initial testing.
 
Middle position if I recall.

2.5 Slide
Remove the Air Jet
200 Main
35 Pilot
6DH3 Needle
P2 Needle Jet

I find I need the chokes on to start the bike, but then immediately close them back up and have to keep the bike running with the throttle till it warms up. About 10 minutes of riding and it idles perfectly at lights. Rode it like that without a single hiccup to Kentucky and back.

But clearly something isn't right, so I'm going to dig into it and see if I can get it running better. Watching Doug run his GS750 made me jealous - that thing is tuned perfectly.
 
That's exactly my setup except I'm using a P0 needle jet. Time will tell what it needs beyond that. Gonna be "fun"....been here before!
 
Yeah, your NJ is one step leaner than mine. I've been considering dropping the needle 1/2 a step with a shim (don't have a shim of course) to lean mine out. But, I'm first going to change my air filter and see how much leaner it gets. Plugs show it running a tad rich - Troy was eyeballing them on our trip, showing me how to read temperature etc. Black magic. I'm running the Bosch W6DC plugs which are the same as the NGK BP6ES. Fairly hot plugs - might step it down to 7's for the summer, but that makes me sound like I know what I'm talking about and I don't.
 
Hahaha, I hear ya Tim. Luckily with the saga that is Gretta i have a good deal of experience jetting mikunis from scratch. I got the baseline from the internet, and will go from there. If it's bogging on you anywhere and reading rich, then that'll tell you what to change depending on where the bog is.

I am running NGK plugs in mine because they're easy to get here and I've always had good luck with them. Also running silicone plug wires with NGK resistor boots per the recommendations of Euro Motoelektrik. Hope she works right! All I know is that there is a nice fat juicy spark and that makes me happy.
 
Hey! It turns out that I wasn't as jealous as was possible. Well, that did it. :) :)

Excellent work, Kiley, it sounds great.
 
for those who don't have Quicktime installed:

http://youtu.be/uXCGlUs4Hp8

(I'll pull this down if you'd like, Kiley)
 
Aw you guys!

She's running excellently. I am gonna grab a battery tomorrow. Waiting on the Mikuni specific throttle cables, a right lower fork crush washer, a couple of idiot light housings, and a few tiny parts and pieces. They are due to ship tomorrow. If they do, trickle tomorrow night on the new battery, and a shake down on Saturday. I feel like a new parent. Felt great to hear her tick over that first time. Literally, that is the first time that bike was started in 30 years. Last registration was in 1982. We have an R60/5 block crank and cam, 1977 R75 cylinders and pistons with new rings and fresh hone, 1985 R80ST heads, and r90/6 stator.....she's a hodge podge, but the simplicity makes it all mesh well. The carburetors are from a late 70's Arctic Cat snowmobile. The beauty of this is that they're the old school small intake spigot VM32s and a pair of intake tubes to connect to the airbox from an r100/7 literally bolted on. I'm gonna throw a timing strobe on her tomorrow and synch the carburetors, but she is extremely close. Idles happily at 1200rpm. And NO SMOKE!

I am happy with this bike. :D
 
Holy shit Kiley that is great. Hope the shake down goes smooth and when you make the big tour you have to come visit me and Jill and William.
 
cue theme music"It feels like the first time,feels like the very first time",lol. love it man!!
 
Re: Re: 1973 1/2 BMW R60/5 restoration.

Junior Burrell said:
cue theme music"It feels like the first time,feels like the very first time",lol. love it man!!

Ha!
 
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