1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer (Updated 3/2/10)

Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

I completely agree with Chris. you will also get much more tunability if you get that further up in the pipe rather than at the end... it could create heating issues the way it is right now, but then again alot of that will depend on how you do your air intake (box, pods, stacks, etc)
i would open up alot of those holes and put a lollypop further up in the pipe to help you when tuning. what you have there is going to be much too restricting. the seat leather is AWESOME!!!! that looks so killer man!
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Thanks for the tips guys.

I am planning on trying to tune it with the tips open (the tips are baffled on the inside with packing so that should offer some resistance, right?) but if that doesn't work I'll start fine-tuning the end caps.

Thanks again,
Garrett ;D
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Other than a little more buffing...Tank is done!!!

dsc05172h.jpg


dsc05174r.jpg


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Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Just a note, the patchiness you can see in the silver is because it needs a finish buff. I'm letting the adhesive on the sticker cure before I buff right up close to it.
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Tank looks hot al hell brother. I am really anticipating the final before and after on this one. Keep up the killer work.
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Looking great!! I love your decal!!

Hey just a note on easy painting. and i'm not trying to jack you thread i bring this up because I am in the middle of painting right now and am learnign alot. I am a total novice but I wanted to work towards painting like at least a semi-pro. I bought a $50 gun at Lowes and used the dupli-color "paint shop" series ready to spray laquers that are available at virtually every auto parts store. there is no reducing or mixing involved. I have no idea how these paints will hold up and I don't really care. The idea was to use the gun with cheap paint and learn the principles of how the paint and gun work with out spending big bucks on the paint. the quart cans are about $22. If the paint fails I will be the wiser and I'll get to paint it again!! ;) the first try was moderately successful; good coverage, no runs but a lot of peel. I read a bunch more and the second try was much better I was able to lay the clear on thick enough with enough coats to reduce the amount of peel. It looks really good with no sanding or buffing. But with sanding and buffing it will look great.

I'm now feeling ready to move to pro quality paint and see what I can do.

I have seen great results from rattle cans but I think a lot of guys are just intimidated by trying to paint. And if you prep right and practice it really isn't that difficult. I only bring this up because I see a lot of really careful, thoughtful work going on here and that is really all it takes to take paint to the next level.

The drag is clean up. you had better clean up...
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

If I had a better air compressor I'd invest in a HVLP Gun from harbor freight but this project is ultra budget and I'm really happy with the rattle can.

Check out my bus on the first page...All of the white from the midline up is Rustoleum rattle can. ;D

I have spent a little over $250 on this project EVERYTHING included. I'm gonna drop a little on a slight engine rebuild but no more than a couple hundred.

It looks like it's gonna cost about $500 when I'm done.

Speaking of engine rebuild...Anyone know where I can get the stuff to redo the top end at?

Thanks!
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

No man, I get it. I wasn't criticizing or editorializing in any way. I do appreciate a budget. It just got me thinking in a general way about painting as I'm in the middle of a paint project and so have been thinking about that a lot anyway. I'm also a few cocktails into the evening so please accept my apology. :p. I should have taken the thought to a different thread. Sorry. Your bike and paint look great!
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

No offense taken, man!
No need to apologize.

I'm anxious to see how your project turns out!

If I can get my rims painted in the next few days, I can get the tires/tubes on and have a rolling chassis.

If I can find a source for my engine parts I can have the bike back on the road in a month or two.

Thanks again guys!
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

WOW! the tank looks great, love the decal, I was thinking of doing a decal for my tail/seat. what would I be looking at $ for a
4"-5" dia. two in white two in black?
BIKELOGOLUCKY7EVEN2.jpg

Thanks
Bike is looking really good.
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Cool, Hey try this guy for your engine parts. john Stockbridge [kennedypunk2003@yahoo.com] he had an ad on craigslist here in maine for a bunch of old parts bikes. You might pick up a complete engine for cheap.

Cafe pete, that logo looks nails!! Do you do that sort of work? I am looking to have a couple of different logos designed.
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

DUDE! NICE WORK! I'm a big fan of the Red Stripe/Silver center. Nice Graphic too! where/how much did that cost to print?
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

diesel450 said:
Cool, Hey try this guy for your engine parts. john Stockbridge [kennedypunk2003@yahoo.com] he had an ad on craigslist here in maine for a bunch of old parts bikes. You might pick up a complete engine for cheap.

Cafe pete, that logo looks nails!! Do you do that sort of work? I am looking to have a couple of different logos designed.
Click to expand...

Thanks, just design logos for myself so far.
But I sure I can help you out, just Pm me some
ideas. Maybe Ninetyeight can print them, his family
buisness does some nice work. DZGM.com

Sorry on the thread jack, question what brand
of tires are you running, really like that vintage
look.
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Thanks for the positive reviews guys.

I did all the design for the tank badges and printed them up on my family's equipment.

CafePete, I'll throw them on a sheet when I print some more stuff off and get 'em shipped out for you. PM me your address. You hooked me up on the seat, there's no reason I shouldn't hook you up on some stickers.

Diesel450,
Thanks for the lead on the engine stuff. I've got the engine, I had it running before I tore it apart but it was running pretty rough. I'm looking to get the points and put a new top end in it but I'm not sure where to find new pistons, rings, etc.

If anyone wants badges/decals let me know through PM or through E-mail: Ninetyeightfilms@gmail.com.
I'll get you an estimate on the prices, I'll have fun designing them so don't worry about design costs.

Thanks again,
I'm off to do some finish work on the seat and start sanding the rims!

-Garrett
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Good work with the rattle cans. I have tried the same recently and was unsatisfied with the result. Even after some buffing and polishing I cant make it look decent.

Whats your secret?
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Hmm...There's a few tricks but mostly from experience.

If you're going with gloss colors, definitely wetsand. My advice on gloss would be:
Prime, wetsand, paint, wetsand, paint 2nd coat, wetsand, paint 3rd coat, wetsand, polish.

A lot of work but well worth it.

With the flat finishes you just have to make sure your prep work is as good as it can get. I'm not sure if it's possible to wetsand a flat finish or if it'll turn out satin-ish/glossy-ish, I've always been kind of afraid to try.

Also, for any finish (Flat, Satin, Gloss, Etc.) always make sure you keep a wet edge. It takes some practice to do this without getting runs but you'll get it eventually. I like to go over the whole piece with a light coat (not fully covering), followed by a nice wet coat paying attention to keeping a wet edge.

On something like the tank I hang it up (I use an old folding hammock frame) and I start by painting the underside (if it gets overspray on it, it won't matter as much as the bottom is not seen) then I switch to the areas you will see.

Another thing, it may sound silly but make sure to read the directions for each seperate can. There are several variances in recoat times, priming times, curing, etc. It seems to vary per color, even. One thing I recently learned is with the majority of rattle cans you can spray your main color immediately after spraying the primer. You don't even have to let the primer dry, they actually recommend not to.

If you're using a stencil or masking (Like I did for the inlays) if at all possible remove the masking while the paint is still wet. Some times it isn't possible (Like when I had to wait for the red to dry before I could paint the silver) but it produces a cleaner line when removed while the paint is still wet. You risk pulling the edge of the paint off if you wait for it to dry.

Sorry for the novel,
Hope it helps. ;D

-Garrett
 
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer

Excellent info.

What kinda grit do you use for the sanding in between coats?

I just couldnt get mine to come out glossy, and it spider webbed in a few parts because I was afraid to rub it down with alcohol after it set prior to clear.

What do you clean with in between coats?
 
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