1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer (Updated 3/2/10)
- Thread starter Ninetyeight
- Start date
tWistedWheelz
BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer
Dude, I would do the same method on the tank! That is sick, it looks like you can reach inside of it or rub it and it will show you the future! You are very creative and have an awsome arsenal at your disposal! I will be pm'ing you in the future for some of that graphic work, if you would have ask your tail section you would have known that though! Hahaha! Great work man, very unique!
Dude, I would do the same method on the tank! That is sick, it looks like you can reach inside of it or rub it and it will show you the future! You are very creative and have an awsome arsenal at your disposal! I will be pm'ing you in the future for some of that graphic work, if you would have ask your tail section you would have known that though! Hahaha! Great work man, very unique!
Ninetyeight
Been Around the Block
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer
Hello All!
I haven't fallen of the face of the earth, but I did lose sight of the project.
I was working 65+ Hour weeks, and I had almost an hour commute to work and back. Let's just say if I was home, I was sleeping!
Well, I have a new job. 40 Hour weeks and half the commute...Not to mention better pay.
I am going to start this project right back up and I'm damn excited!
Projects that were left half done and are (More-than-likely) the next ones in line:
- Painting the wheels/hubs High Gloss black.
- Finish cleaning and painting the engine. (Cast aluminum w/ black cylinders)
- Finish painting/upholstering the seat
Also, I really need to buy some carbs for this bike. I'm over trying to find a diaphragm and am ready to just buy some carbs that are ready to go. Where do I start?!
I was looking at the rebuild carbs from OBB but I REALLY don't want to do business with them.
Expect this to be back in action soon!
Hello All!
I haven't fallen of the face of the earth, but I did lose sight of the project.
I was working 65+ Hour weeks, and I had almost an hour commute to work and back. Let's just say if I was home, I was sleeping!
Well, I have a new job. 40 Hour weeks and half the commute...Not to mention better pay.
I am going to start this project right back up and I'm damn excited!
Projects that were left half done and are (More-than-likely) the next ones in line:
- Painting the wheels/hubs High Gloss black.
- Finish cleaning and painting the engine. (Cast aluminum w/ black cylinders)
- Finish painting/upholstering the seat
Also, I really need to buy some carbs for this bike. I'm over trying to find a diaphragm and am ready to just buy some carbs that are ready to go. Where do I start?!
I was looking at the rebuild carbs from OBB but I REALLY don't want to do business with them.
Expect this to be back in action soon!
boomshakalaka
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer
haha.. when I was considering using roller paint on my tank ( http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html ) and my friend suggested somehow just pouring paint on, or dipping the pieces. I told him that was a retarded idea and it would never work.. guess I was wrong! :-D Thats gotta be like 1/2 cm thick though!
haha.. when I was considering using roller paint on my tank ( http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html ) and my friend suggested somehow just pouring paint on, or dipping the pieces. I told him that was a retarded idea and it would never work.. guess I was wrong! :-D Thats gotta be like 1/2 cm thick though!
Ninetyeight
Been Around the Block
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer
That's how I'm (In the process of) painting my bus!
Doing it to a tank would be damn tricky, though...
Being as small as it is spray cans are where it's at.
I have NO idea how thick it is, but it's rock hard.
There are however a few small blemishes that aren't visible in the photos, and for that reason I've decided to paint it flat black to match the tank.
I don't see getting the tank clearcoated to match as an actual option for the time being, so I'm going to paint the tail to match.
I'm planning on blocksanding the hell out of it (wet, and with a fine grit of course) and then painting it up to match. There won't be much exposed black after the silver side inserts, red outline, and numbers are applied so flat black it is...
That's how I'm (In the process of) painting my bus!
Doing it to a tank would be damn tricky, though...
Being as small as it is spray cans are where it's at.
I have NO idea how thick it is, but it's rock hard.
There are however a few small blemishes that aren't visible in the photos, and for that reason I've decided to paint it flat black to match the tank.
I don't see getting the tank clearcoated to match as an actual option for the time being, so I'm going to paint the tail to match.
I'm planning on blocksanding the hell out of it (wet, and with a fine grit of course) and then painting it up to match. There won't be much exposed black after the silver side inserts, red outline, and numbers are applied so flat black it is...
Ninetyeight
Been Around the Block
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer
Alllrighttyyy Then.....
Well, I was able to peak my head out to the work area tonight for just awhile and sort some things out. I did more thinking and rearranging of tools, etc. than working.
I've come to the decision that above all else I want to get the damn thing running. I'm planning on buying some rebuilt carbs which will cover me on what is more than likely my biggest hurdle.
Here's where I'm asking for advice...
I've got the engine out of the frame right now. I'm going to clean it all up and paint it for sure, but what about internals?
Before I began the tear down I had it running, a term I use loosely. It had no air filters and completely open pipes, not to mention the diaphragm was nearly nonexistant in the right carb.
I don't remember it smoking, and there wasn't any backfiring.
It would not rev to very high RPMS and wouldn't stay running for long periods of time.
Now obviously the majority of this boils down to the diaphragm (or lack of) and I'm sure some of it can be written off on the complete lack of back pressure via the exhaust.
But, should I still replace the rings as a precautionary measure? The bike has 15,000 miles on it and I don't have any history of maintenance.
How hard would it be to go back and replace the rings, etc? Would it require removing the motor?
I'm planning on running near open pipes but they'll have baffled tips with lollipops (Thanks Joe!) in them. I'll be running completely rebuilt (Or new...not certain yet) carbs with a single pancake filter (Hoping to bear a slight resemblance to CafePetes 360, see his thread for reference).
Should I throw the motor back in with the new carbs, filter, and exhaust setup and try to tune it?
If so, what should I do as far as routine maintenance? Adjust valves? Adjust cam chain?
I'm new to the motor internals game and am looking for some (very detailed) guidance.
Thanks in advance guys.
-Garrett
Alllrighttyyy Then.....
Well, I was able to peak my head out to the work area tonight for just awhile and sort some things out. I did more thinking and rearranging of tools, etc. than working.
I've come to the decision that above all else I want to get the damn thing running. I'm planning on buying some rebuilt carbs which will cover me on what is more than likely my biggest hurdle.
Here's where I'm asking for advice...
I've got the engine out of the frame right now. I'm going to clean it all up and paint it for sure, but what about internals?
Before I began the tear down I had it running, a term I use loosely. It had no air filters and completely open pipes, not to mention the diaphragm was nearly nonexistant in the right carb.
I don't remember it smoking, and there wasn't any backfiring.
It would not rev to very high RPMS and wouldn't stay running for long periods of time.
Now obviously the majority of this boils down to the diaphragm (or lack of) and I'm sure some of it can be written off on the complete lack of back pressure via the exhaust.
But, should I still replace the rings as a precautionary measure? The bike has 15,000 miles on it and I don't have any history of maintenance.
How hard would it be to go back and replace the rings, etc? Would it require removing the motor?
I'm planning on running near open pipes but they'll have baffled tips with lollipops (Thanks Joe!) in them. I'll be running completely rebuilt (Or new...not certain yet) carbs with a single pancake filter (Hoping to bear a slight resemblance to CafePetes 360, see his thread for reference).
Should I throw the motor back in with the new carbs, filter, and exhaust setup and try to tune it?
If so, what should I do as far as routine maintenance? Adjust valves? Adjust cam chain?
I'm new to the motor internals game and am looking for some (very detailed) guidance.
Thanks in advance guys.
-Garrett
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer (Help Me! 12/6/09)
There are guys here with a lot more engine knowledge than I have but a few basics would be definitely adjust cam chain tension and valve clearances. You want to do a compression test to determine whether or not you need to do a top end job on her. All of these jobs are covered well in the manuals just follow instructions to a tee. If you can't get the bike running to get the compression reading from a warm engine you can still do it cold, the compression will read a few psi lighter. Also change the oil and take a close look at it. Any metal present? if so you may want to dig further. Again, guys like Crazypj, etc. know these things inside out so hopefully one or more of them will chime in.
Oh, check out www.hondatwins.net there are some great tech tips and tech guys over there and they are almost as friendly as the folks here.
Theres a sticky right on the front page about how to go over a bike just like we're talking about.
There are guys here with a lot more engine knowledge than I have but a few basics would be definitely adjust cam chain tension and valve clearances. You want to do a compression test to determine whether or not you need to do a top end job on her. All of these jobs are covered well in the manuals just follow instructions to a tee. If you can't get the bike running to get the compression reading from a warm engine you can still do it cold, the compression will read a few psi lighter. Also change the oil and take a close look at it. Any metal present? if so you may want to dig further. Again, guys like Crazypj, etc. know these things inside out so hopefully one or more of them will chime in.
Oh, check out www.hondatwins.net there are some great tech tips and tech guys over there and they are almost as friendly as the folks here.
Theres a sticky right on the front page about how to go over a bike just like we're talking about.Ninetyeight
Been Around the Block
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer (Help Me! 12/6/09)
Awesome!
I think I'll check the compression tonight and go from there. Can I set the valve clearance, timing, points, etc. without the ability to have it running?
Awesome!
I think I'll check the compression tonight and go from there. Can I set the valve clearance, timing, points, etc. without the ability to have it running?
Re: 1974 CB360 - (Properly Named) The Sterilizer (Help Me! 12/6/09)
valves should be checked cold anyway. points can be set. A static timing can be done with the bike not running as long as you have electrical. (though if you have that and fuel, why wouldn't it run?) Not sure about this particular model but usually the cam chain is done with the bike running. If you don't have the compression though don't mess around. no amount of fiddling will ever have it running really right. Go ahead and do the top end.
Get in touch with CrazyPj he is doing a 360 right now as well and really knows his shit.
valves should be checked cold anyway. points can be set. A static timing can be done with the bike not running as long as you have electrical. (though if you have that and fuel, why wouldn't it run?) Not sure about this particular model but usually the cam chain is done with the bike running. If you don't have the compression though don't mess around. no amount of fiddling will ever have it running really right. Go ahead and do the top end.
Get in touch with CrazyPj he is doing a 360 right now as well and really knows his shit.
Ninetyeight
Been Around the Block
I've been silent for awhile,
I didn't work on the bike for quite awhile coming into winter, but I'm back at it!
I worked on cleaning up the motor and began painting it. The motor is painted from the cylinder down, from the top of the cylinder up will be the same silver as the bottom. I'm hoping to be able to finish the paint on the motor this week, then I'll be able to get it back into the frame
I need to pick up a gasket kit, and a stainless steel bolt kit so I can put the side covers back on. Any suggestions on where to buy these items?
I'm also getting ready to buy a new set of carbs from Old Bike Barn (As my diaphragm is ripped....still )
I began working on the rims tonight - I was able to get the front rim wirewheeled and sanded down, then primed.
Plan of attack is as follows:
Finish painting on motor
Install motor in frame
Paint Front Rim Gloss black
Sand/Wirewheel/Prime/Paint Rear Wheel
Install Tubes/Tires on Rims
Sort out Electrical
Install new carbs (after buying them, of course)
Should be pretty close to done at that point!
Also - CafePete!!! I'm sorry for being a jerk and falling through! I promise promise promise that I'll get you those stickers. I'm so sorry! I hope I haven't held you up any.
Thanks,
Garrett
I didn't work on the bike for quite awhile coming into winter, but I'm back at it!
I worked on cleaning up the motor and began painting it. The motor is painted from the cylinder down, from the top of the cylinder up will be the same silver as the bottom. I'm hoping to be able to finish the paint on the motor this week, then I'll be able to get it back into the frame
I need to pick up a gasket kit, and a stainless steel bolt kit so I can put the side covers back on. Any suggestions on where to buy these items?
I'm also getting ready to buy a new set of carbs from Old Bike Barn (As my diaphragm is ripped....still
)I began working on the rims tonight - I was able to get the front rim wirewheeled and sanded down, then primed.
Plan of attack is as follows:
Finish painting on motor
Install motor in frame
Paint Front Rim Gloss black
Sand/Wirewheel/Prime/Paint Rear Wheel
Install Tubes/Tires on Rims
Sort out Electrical
Install new carbs (after buying them, of course)
Should be pretty close to done at that point!
Also - CafePete!!! I'm sorry for being a jerk and falling through! I promise promise promise that I'll get you those stickers. I'm so sorry! I hope I haven't held you up any.
Thanks,
Garrett
CresentSon
Over 1,000 Posts
Glad to see that you are still out there and this thing is progressing. Motor looks good with the black accents.
kadavenport
Been Around the Block
I bought a stainless steel bolt kit from ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CB350-CL350-SL350-twin-STAINLESS-ENGINE-BOLT-KIT_W0QQitemZ370340784912QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item563a07eb10. My only complaint is that it came without any diagrams.
tWistedWheelz
BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
I really like the look of that paint on the motor! What brand/color/finish is it, where did you buy it/ and how well does it cover/spray? Looks killer and a really smooth paint job! Great work!
rjz5400
grummble grumble
looking good on the engine!
what did you decide to do about the maintenance? did you get a good compression reading and set the timing?
also i am concerned about the wheel, from what i hear if you paint the spokes it is a real Bi%&*H to replace the spoke or true the wheel after. just something to think about maybe tape the nipps off before real paint and just leave them in primer.
glad you are back and posting
what did you decide to do about the maintenance? did you get a good compression reading and set the timing?
also i am concerned about the wheel, from what i hear if you paint the spokes it is a real Bi%&*H to replace the spoke or true the wheel after. just something to think about maybe tape the nipps off before real paint and just leave them in primer.
glad you are back and posting
Ninetyeight
Been Around the Block
Thanks for all of the motivating words, guys!
CresentSon - Thanks! The Black Accents are all handpainted with a fine hobby brush. Some of the edges are a little wobbly but it looks quite good in person. From 1.5ft+ you can't tell at all.
kadavenport - Thanks for the link! I'll definitely look into that. I have most of the bolts, but they're pretty beat up so I think I'll just commit to getting a new set. I'll definitely check those out.
cafePete - I've been swamped with work lately, but once I get to my design computer I will vectorize the logo and get them thrown onto one of the sheets we print that day. I've got your logo saved on my thumb-drive waiting!
tWistedWheelz - Thanks for the compliments, I'm super happy with how the paint turned out. The silver is Duplicolor High Heat Engine Enamel in "Cast Coat Aluminum". What you see is several light coats done within 15 minutes of each other. It builds up quite well and the coverage seems to be very good. I will admit, I was using it when it was a bit too cold to paint, which caused it to be a little bit runny, but other than that it was golden! The black is a VHT "Flameproof" flat black. I'm not sure if I'm happy with this or not. I again did several light coats within a period of several minutes, but it didn't seem to cover as well. It could very well be that it was just not getting into the fins well, and it could be because it was a bit too cold when I sprayed that, too. :
Overall, I'm very happy with how the paint turned out.
rjz5400 - I haven't timed the engine yet, but I got a good compression reading out of it, so I decided to go with it. I'd like to try it with correct pipes, carbs, and tuned up and then decide if I need to do anything to it. That may be a bit backwards, but I figure if I don't need to do anything to it, why should I?
As for the wheels, I'm thinking of maybe shooting the nipples and spokes flat black, then shooting the rims super glossy appliance enamel. That should allow the spokes to turn easier.
diesel450 - Still doing stickers. Shoot me a PM and we can talk your project over!
CresentSon - Thanks! The Black Accents are all handpainted with a fine hobby brush. Some of the edges are a little wobbly but it looks quite good in person. From 1.5ft+ you can't tell at all.
kadavenport - Thanks for the link! I'll definitely look into that. I have most of the bolts, but they're pretty beat up so I think I'll just commit to getting a new set. I'll definitely check those out.
cafePete - I've been swamped with work lately, but once I get to my design computer I will vectorize the logo and get them thrown onto one of the sheets we print that day. I've got your logo saved on my thumb-drive waiting!
tWistedWheelz - Thanks for the compliments, I'm super happy with how the paint turned out. The silver is Duplicolor High Heat Engine Enamel in "Cast Coat Aluminum". What you see is several light coats done within 15 minutes of each other. It builds up quite well and the coverage seems to be very good. I will admit, I was using it when it was a bit too cold to paint, which caused it to be a little bit runny, but other than that it was golden! The black is a VHT "Flameproof" flat black. I'm not sure if I'm happy with this or not. I again did several light coats within a period of several minutes, but it didn't seem to cover as well. It could very well be that it was just not getting into the fins well, and it could be because it was a bit too cold when I sprayed that, too. :
Overall, I'm very happy with how the paint turned out.
rjz5400 - I haven't timed the engine yet, but I got a good compression reading out of it, so I decided to go with it. I'd like to try it with correct pipes, carbs, and tuned up and then decide if I need to do anything to it. That may be a bit backwards, but I figure if I don't need to do anything to it, why should I?
As for the wheels, I'm thinking of maybe shooting the nipples and spokes flat black, then shooting the rims super glossy appliance enamel. That should allow the spokes to turn easier.
diesel450 - Still doing stickers. Shoot me a PM and we can talk your project over!
The bolt kit that kadavenport mentioned is absolutely the way to go. They're easy to find out where they go. I use them on all of my builds, and love them.
As far as carbs go, let me know what you need...I may just have it. I swapped to Mikuni's (jetting nightmare, but great when done), so I have a pile of carburetor parts left over. Just PM me man.
Build is lookin good!
As far as carbs go, let me know what you need...I may just have it. I swapped to Mikuni's (jetting nightmare, but great when done), so I have a pile of carburetor parts left over. Just PM me man.
Build is lookin good!
Ninetyeight
Been Around the Block
Thanks for the review Kanticoy, I'm definitely sold on the bolt kit, than.
As far as carbs I need #7 in this diagram:
I believe it's the diaphragm?
I could buy a new one for $90-$120, or buy a set of re-manufactured carbs from Old Bike Barn that are completely rebuilt for $220. I think my gaskets are all good if I could just get that diaphragm, but otherwise I should probably look to the rebuilts.
Let me know if you've got that, that would be awesome!!
As far as carbs I need #7 in this diagram:
I believe it's the diaphragm?
I could buy a new one for $90-$120, or buy a set of re-manufactured carbs from Old Bike Barn that are completely rebuilt for $220. I think my gaskets are all good if I could just get that diaphragm, but otherwise I should probably look to the rebuilts.
Let me know if you've got that, that would be awesome!!
Ninetyeight
Been Around the Block
Oops, here is the diagram:
