Haha. Hence, my "stupid and lucky" comment last night. I have no doubt about one of those qualities.cxman said:
1975 CB360 Freeze-dried Hell Ride
- Thread starter irk miller
- Start date
Barring anymore of my stupidness, I am back in business. I took the bike for a hell ride through the hood, and all looks good. There's still a little wave in the idle, but once it warms up things start to go. Running through the gears was smooth. I parked and check the tappets, because I'm paranoid.
I need to do some work at school today. Dare I ride there?
I need to do some work at school today. Dare I ride there?
Ellwood
Vintage person on vintage bikes...
You could always get a rope and have your wife tow you back with the xA.... Since you're now in Georgia that would seem to be completely OK! Besides it's short and no pressure, you won't have any confidence until you get a few short trips under the belt.
And I have TMobile, which is about as good as a phone booth.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
haircuttergirl
Over 1,000 Posts
Like I said... Throw those ramps in your truck and tell Ash to not get too busy in the next twenty mins. Just in case. You can do it!deviant said:
Got 3/4 of the way to school and dead. I named this thing after the crazy episodes of singer and folk artist Wesley Willis. Episodes where his mind went manic, he referred to as "Hell Rides." This motorcycle has become a manic beast. Then again, every old machine has their own manic tendencies. Anyway, I got the wife to pick me up. Got it back in the garage and went through it with the multimeter. I started with the fuses and worked through the harness under the seat. Then I test the starter solenoid by jumping the poles (it worked) which gave me a clue. I'm working with the key switch on, so hopefully if I get something to work, the neutral light and head light comes on. I moved to the front and started pulling the harness out of its holders. The neutral light and headlight flashed on. As turned out, the key switch plug is loose. Stuck a mini screwdriver in the tabs on the female side to tighten it up and we're back in business. Jeezus! Something tells me it's time to scrap the old harness and get a new custom jawn.
I rode it into work this morning. It rode well. A little squirrelly, but a good ride. I have the front and rear shocks pretty tight, so I feel every wave in the pavement. It'll take getting used to. I have new Avons coming in the mail to replace the Continental front and Shinko rear I have on it now. The front tire is a 3.5 H18 RB2 which is just way too bulky and seems meant for a laid back cruiser. It just has no handling characteristics, is supposed to be tubeless, and is too old to be good.
I still have backfire through the carbs at idle. It's fine running through the gears. I can't get it to give me a sign with ether, but when I pushed on the carbs last night, the idle rose. It wasn't immediate, but slowly rose. For some reason, I'm having a hard time getting the boots tight around the carb foot, so I'm going to change out the clamps and see if that improves. Right now, the clamps want to slide off the carb foot.
It's also been suggested more than once that my issue may be points bounce.
I also did a Trek-style carb stabilizer upgrade, so they sit nice and level and hold in place, despite the backfire.
I checked and re-checked the tappets because I still don't trust they will stay in. There is certainly a tapping noise coming out of the engine, but I don't know what is normal. Everything checks out at 5mm on the intake and 8mm in the exhaust. I'm setting them at the LT and T marks, and wonder if I might be 90 degrees off.
I still have backfire through the carbs at idle. It's fine running through the gears. I can't get it to give me a sign with ether, but when I pushed on the carbs last night, the idle rose. It wasn't immediate, but slowly rose. For some reason, I'm having a hard time getting the boots tight around the carb foot, so I'm going to change out the clamps and see if that improves. Right now, the clamps want to slide off the carb foot.
It's also been suggested more than once that my issue may be points bounce.
I also did a Trek-style carb stabilizer upgrade, so they sit nice and level and hold in place, despite the backfire.
I checked and re-checked the tappets because I still don't trust they will stay in. There is certainly a tapping noise coming out of the engine, but I don't know what is normal. Everything checks out at 5mm on the intake and 8mm in the exhaust. I'm setting them at the LT and T marks, and wonder if I might be 90 degrees off.
Well, I did two things today that made the bike idle and run beautifully. I put some dielectric grease on the points cam and a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank. I hope it lasts.
Ha. Sorry, I left out the decimal places Should have written .05mm and .08mm.
I can't get rid of the backfire through the carbs at idle. I've ruled out all vacuum leaks and now look back to the ignition. Essentially, if I set the idle at 1200 rpm, I get backfire. If I set it at 2000 rpm, I don't have backfire. I've also had to reset the timing a few times. The points sparks are fading in and out at idle and appear to be the root of the issue. Is it looking more and more like points bounce? The springs do not fully compress (there is a gap between coils). In most pictures I see, it appears that the springs are fully compressed. Does it make sense that stretched springs could be an issue here? Otherwise the advancer seems clean and free.
Points bounce gets worse with increased RPMs, not better, so I don't think that's the issue. Have you followed the procedure for tweaking the mixture screws? It would seem to be that you're having issues with the idle circuit in the carbs. Possible something is gummed up or dirty?
