1975 CB360 Freeze-dried Hell Ride
- Thread starter irk miller
- Start date
Thank you, sir. Much easier to find.trek97 said:
I saw two on eBay- one labeled as from a CB360 and one from a CL350. The CL350 looks exactly like mine and I bought it. The CB360 labeled part has two screw mounts and looks smaller and of completely different design.
I'm in a holding pattern waiting on the clutch cable actuator and a starter solenoid. In the meantime, I painted the tank and did another adjustment to the seat. There's so much insane torque...h-hm... on a CB360 that my butt was sliding back into the seat when I accelerated. A crack developed where the back of my butt hits the rise because I glassed too thin. So I reinforced with some glass, repaired the crack and fabricated a plate to rest against. Eventually, the plate will have some cush padding, although I like the look of the metal.
I haven't put it on yet. I think the ball bearing or spring is missing because it doesn't want to stay in its stow away position. I might strap it to the frame until I can figure it out. With the solenoid issue it would have been easier to start with the kick, that's for sure.trek97 said:
I'm feeling pretty stupid and really lucky today:
I've been perplexed by my backfire issue, yet feeling so close to getting it tuned right. So I went out to the garage to go through some more checks. In particular, I figured with the black soot on one of the spark plugs that I was having spark issue. Since the carbs just came from PJ, I was confident that the carbs are tuned well so I want to go through all of the other checks first. Anyway, so I pull the alternator cover off to check the timing again and to make sure my points are clean. Put the 14mm wrench on the the alternator bolt and it turns an 1/8 turn and that's it. It bounces back a bit, makes the sound of compression, so I try again. Same result. WTF? I'm thinking, "How could I have seized this thing?" Great. Here we go again: One step forward, two steps back. I pull the engine and disassemble the top end. Every thing looks good. Cylinders are smooth, everything is clean. Not a ding anywhere. So I let the cam chain rotate ever so slightly and I notice a little glimmer and a strange shape on top of the lower cam pulley. An entire tappet and the locknut from another tappet had come loose and fallen down into the engine and lay rest on top of the lower cam pulley. I have no idea how it didn't destroy anything. The only nicks are on the tappet and locknut; nowhere else in the engine. Damn! I think I found my backfire issue.
I've been perplexed by my backfire issue, yet feeling so close to getting it tuned right. So I went out to the garage to go through some more checks. In particular, I figured with the black soot on one of the spark plugs that I was having spark issue. Since the carbs just came from PJ, I was confident that the carbs are tuned well so I want to go through all of the other checks first. Anyway, so I pull the alternator cover off to check the timing again and to make sure my points are clean. Put the 14mm wrench on the the alternator bolt and it turns an 1/8 turn and that's it. It bounces back a bit, makes the sound of compression, so I try again. Same result. WTF? I'm thinking, "How could I have seized this thing?" Great. Here we go again: One step forward, two steps back. I pull the engine and disassemble the top end. Every thing looks good. Cylinders are smooth, everything is clean. Not a ding anywhere. So I let the cam chain rotate ever so slightly and I notice a little glimmer and a strange shape on top of the lower cam pulley. An entire tappet and the locknut from another tappet had come loose and fallen down into the engine and lay rest on top of the lower cam pulley. I have no idea how it didn't destroy anything. The only nicks are on the tappet and locknut; nowhere else in the engine. Damn! I think I found my backfire issue.
These led's:
Sooner or later, I need to get a lathe and mill. In order to get the LED's to fit, I reamed the inside of the frame tube, then welded conduit lock nuts to each end. I slightly reamed the inside of two 1/2' chase nipples, removed the lock rings that came with the lights, and epoxied them in with some scotch weld 3501.
Just need to clean up the welds some more and repaint.
Just need to clean up the welds some more and repaint.
Got it back on the road. It runs better, but still runs rough and has a tendency to stall in idle. I've got black soot on the plugs which now has me thinking weak spark. The right side is slightly better than the left. The primary resistance checks out at 4.3 ohms, but I can't get a reading on secondary resistance. I'm going to order coils and plug wires, and hopefully this is the last step.
I'd like to give the Dyna DC3-1 3ohm coils another shot. I bought a set for this bike, but never really used them. I was concerned they might be too much for these points. They measure out at 3 ohm on the primary resistance, but each coil is slightly different on the secondary. One measures at 13.8k and the other at 14.3K. I can't find any information that addresses whether the Dyna coil's secondary resistance has a range or what it is. My understanding is that secondary resistance is acceptable within 10 - 15%.
