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I can't remember the name of the stuff, but you get it at marinas and places that deal with boating supplies. It's actually meant for brass I think as that will go green in salt water pretty quick, but it works quite well on aluminum. Goes on like car wax..
I can't remember the name of the stuff, but you get it at marinas and places that deal with boating supplies. It's actually meant for brass I think as that will go green in salt water pretty quick, but it works quite well on aluminum. Goes on like car wax..
Here was my process:
1. Aircraft stripper to remove factory clear coat
2. Wet sand with 320, 400 grit all in a uniform direction
3. Polish with stiched wheel and the grey Harbor Frieght compound
I like the results but I'm sure there's a lot of people here that would criticize for not doing the proper 320, 400, 600, 1000 then different compounds but i wanted a more raw look.
Swagger said:
Could you weigh the parts that you're discarding? It'd be interesting to know what they are.
I like the results but I'm sure there's a lot of people here that would criticize for not doing the proper 320, 400, 600, 1000 then different compounds but i wanted a more raw look.
Cleaned up the front caliper tonight. My brake drags pretty bad and I was reading on the sohc4 forum somewhere that there tends to be a build up of corrosion under the piston seal that can restrict the retraction of the piston. Sure enough, I pulled out the seal and lots of nasty white corrosion stuff. You can kinda see it in the picture where I started scraping the crap out.
My buddy gave me a Hel stainless steel brake line from his Ducati. The problems are it's a tad long, I'd have to ditch my front brake switch and just use my back brake to switch on the brake light, and figuring out how to fit the banjo to the caliper since there is that weird solid pipe that runs into it. So, I'm not sure what I want to do yet or know whats possible.
thompsonmx100 said:
Hey nice bike. For the chrome you may need to consider an adhesion promoter. I was wondering if you have any idea what size the pet cock threads are on your tank i have one and i need a new petcock. Thanks if you can help.
I have done the rebuild on my wifes CB500 front brake 2x's i even replaced the gasket... i am so fed up with that drag it would blow your mind! i hate it!!!! i still get it a bit. i plan on replacing the whole set p for a duel piston when i do her bike
My front brake is baller. Like I posted previously, my buddy gave me a stainless steel brake line which he had for his Ducati and couldn't use because it was too short. He gave it to me with the stipulation that I could only keep it if I could make it work.... and I DID! I had to figureout how to attach it to the caliper since there was previously a solid pipe running to it and with using the ss line I had to ditch my brake light switch. First, I used a banjo bolt from the brake switch and cut it down by 3/8's allowing me to attach it to the caliper and I ordered a banjo bolt for the master cylinder that has a built in switch.
Gauges:
My stock cb500t gauges are huge. I really like the no gauge look but since I plan to do some longer trips I'd feel more comfortable with them. So, I had an extra pair of gauges from a cb360t. They were pretty gross so I disassembled them to clean them up on the inside and polish the outsides.
Meanwhile, I've cleaned up the frame and have been mocking up my seat with poster board so that I can make templates to transfer to sheet metal.
I still cannot find a simple single cable pull throttle that will work with my stock cable. Anyone know of something that will work?
looking good man! nice work on the brake... what are you looking for on the throttle cable? you trying to get rid of the push pull and go to just a pull? what is wrong with your stock cables? if they are ruined there are a ton of companies out there, motion pro is one that makes cables
looking good man! nice work on the brake... what are you looking for on the throttle cable? you trying to get rid of the push pull and go to just a pull? what is wrong with your stock cables? if they are ruined there are a ton of companies out there, motion pro is one that makes cables
Hey JRK, my stock setup is a pull throttle. It has one cable from the throttle grip and then just before the carbs there's a splitter that goes to 2 cables.
I purchased this throttle from ebay but my stock cable doesn't thread into the throttle body.
First, I used a banjo bolt from the brake switch and cut it down by 3/8's allowing me to attach it to the caliper and I ordered a banjo bolt for the master cylinder that has a built in switch.
My master cylinder is 1.25mm thread pitch so I assume thats true for Honda's. I just realized that the picture above is before I got this banjo bolt incase you were looking. http://www.mikesxs.net/products-55.html#products
I figured out an aftermarket throttle with the help of Useful Idiot so thanks to him. He used a motion-pro throttle on his sick 500t so i bought the same one and it works great.
Designed a gauge bracket which also incorporates a kill and hi/lo beam switch.
Gauge stance.
Making some progress on my seat. Laid out the design.
ripped into the oem wiring harness. I'm cutting out so much original stuff I'm really hoping to streamline everything.
I can't figure out what this piece is. The green/red line wire comes from the clutch switch and the light green/ red line comes from the starter selinoid. I'm not running the oem clutch anymore so how can I get rid of this? I'm not even sure what this part is. Can anyone explain?
Another confusion. The white/yellow line wire is (according to the Clymer Manual) for charging regulation on some models but it looks like it is not utilized for my bike. I'm not sure what I even need to ask to understand what this is doing yet.
i say to ditch the stock wiring loom entirely, and just make your own. takes more time, but you can rest easy knowing that its all new stuff. it should be loads more streamlined. use the clymer as a guide. throw in more fuses in select spots so that if one thing blows, the bike can still run. only having one fuse complicates things.
for example... if your headlight shorts, you can still run the bike =D
I agree ditch that stock harness...the wire is 35 years old, the insulation is breaking down by now. On everything I build I rewire it (cars and bikes). Cheap insurance when your a long ways from home. Ive never had a rewire job that was done properly leave me stranded. I also like to run ATC style fuses on everything (you can get a pocket load at any wrecking yard). for some really nice electrical stuff checkout raychem, they make a kick ass heat shrink that remains really flexible, way better than black tape.
+1 on the harness. After stripping down the stocker from my CB350, I just dont trust it. I picked up a small 6 slot blade type fuse box and one of ever color of the 8ft rolls of automotive wiring at the local parts store. That and a package of quality end pieces and unions and your good to go. Simple as can be. You can even get new ends for the factory plugs. You should be able to build a whole new harness for under $50 easily.
Building my own wire harness does sound like a solid plan but I'm not sure I have the knowledge to make that happen.
Oh, I found out what the electric part is that clips to the top of my coil... a silicon rectifier. Although I still don't know what it's purpose is there.
Get a stock wiring diagram so you know what your cutting/connecting. Run one wire at a time. It'll take a bit, but you'll be better off in the long run.
Thanks Vonvinzer. I have this diagram but understanding it enough to manipulated is what I'm struggling with.
However, wiring is coming along. I had a slow day in the office so I used MS Paint to rework the diagram (very high tech I know). I think I've finalized on this wiring design but if anyone can see any errors let me know please. Again, my electrical knowledge isn't great but I think this works.
Also, thanks crazypj for answering my question about the silicon rectifier in the 800-cafe section. Non of that wiring is shown in my OEM diagram and I deducted that it could all be removed without affecting anything with the way I have this wired.
::::NOTES:::: Kill Switch: SPST toggle (on-off) Hi/Lo Beam: SPDT toggle (hi-off-lo) Off position I've setup to kill all my lights. Ignition: rerouted to eliminate the parking light. Fuse: the diagram is incorrect since my bike has 4 fuses but I am going to switch that to 1 inline 15a fuse.
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