1976 Honda CB360T - The first step is admitting I have a problem build

deviant said:
Did he have solid lifters put in? The hydraulic lifters they put in 'vettes were known for their hp stealing.

I think so - it was more of a "knock knock" "Who's there?" "Rod knock!" rebuild situation, but he did take advantage of the motor being out to fix up some stuff like that. He had it pretty well hopped up when it was new, so I wouldn't be surprised if the lifters were replaced with the cam back in '73.
 
By the way, here's the petcock I originally purchased and am currently having issues with:

http://www.amazon.com/Supply-Fuel-Petcock-18-4150/dp/B007GR503M

It's from K&L Supply. I'll try PJ's trick with the drill bit on it, but it is strange that there is air in the lines even when the tank cap is open and the bike is running. I think that "air lock" is part of the issue.
 
Also, I've been eyeballing some of the vacuum operated fuel pumps from lawn equipment. Hmm...
 
Aluminum fuel cell behind the carbs, empty gas tank for storing drugs and not winterizing...Lemme know how that pump works out.
 
Lawn equipment is appropriate. I've used lawn mower parts on my car several times, including once more today :)


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Hahahahah, I'm just looking for a good way to overcome what appears to be a low fuel pressure situation.
 
deviant said:
Does that mean we all have to remove our comments so we don't look crazy? :eek:

Yep, cause only the sane ones have some dude wearing a freaky bird head avatar.
 
trek97 said:
OK bud the post jack has been deleted.

No need to delete it - at 84 pages this thread is one giant post jack ;D Sometimes we even talk about motorcycles!
 
Which reminds me, I did do some work on the 360 while I wait for petcocks and tank seals...I pulled the shocks off the back and wire wheeled the rust off them. The rust came off pretty easy, and made a remarkable difference in how the rear end looks.

The shocks are probably still shot though ;D But at least they are shiny now!
 
In basic training my drill sergeant would tells us "you can't polish a turd" But yet still expect us to buff the barracks floor... It was crap, but shiny crap!


Kinda like that first petcock l bought. Except it wasn't shiny either. Just crap.


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Didn't they prove you could polish a turd on Mythbusters? ;D

My first replacement petcock was shiny, but apparently shiny crap. If I could find a M16x1.5 threaded female to push on / barbed fitting adapter I'd be running the thing with no petcock and just riding it!

Of course, my crankcase would probably be full of fuel and my cylinders hydrolocked...
 
OK guys, I need a bit of help here.
No shit, 10 minutes ago I am sitting out in the garage having a smoke, glance over at the bike. I noticed one header nut was missing...
NO, the stud was gone...pulled header and the stud is broke off about an 1/8 inch BELOW the surface. I got 16 days to get this thing together for the trip to kentucky spring thaw.

ANY advice you can offer would be GREAT!!!

I shot some penetrant on it...and then panicked ran to Amazon ordered these...

left hand bits w easy outs...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

dual edge extractors...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SM2DTW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
trek97 said:
OK guys, I need a bit of help here.
No shit, 10 minutes ago I am sitting out in the garage having a smoke, glance over at the bike. I noticed one header nut was missing...
NO, the stud was gone...pulled header and the stud is broke off about an 1/8 inch BELOW the surface. I got 16 days to get this thing together for the trip to kentucky spring thaw.

ANY advice you can offer would be GREAT!!!

I shot some penetrant on it...and then panicked ran to Amazon ordered these...

left hand bits w easy outs...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

dual edge extractors...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SM2DTW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's how I do it:

I use the straight fluted easy out bits like the Rennsteigs. Take a piece of aluminum or steel plate and make a template the fits over the head. You want the hole just larger than the smallest bit size and work your way up. You can also make a bushing that fits in the hole and use the ID as your bit size. This is all to keep your drill bit at a perfect right angle to the surface of the head. Also use a drill stop so you don't go too far. You want to use left hand drill bits. I get them from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#left-hand-drill-bits/=rs7ft8). Sometimes the heat from the bit and the left hand drilling will break it loose. If it's still stuck, then tap in your easy out and see if it comes out. If not, then take a propane torch or mapp gas torch and heat the area and spray with PB Blaster. Repeat a few times while waiting a bit in-between. It usually comes out by now. With those Rennsteigs you might also be able to just us an impact wrench if they don't come out right away.

edit: I just realized the Irwin set comes with left hand drill bits.
 
The left hand bits are great but they probably won't pull the broken piece out as Honda used the studs to tap the holes (makes a real tight fit)
Tapered 'easy snap' are worse than useless, don't put it anywhere near the hole you drill.
The parallel ones with teeth along length are the only ones I used that actually work.
Whatever you do, never heat the stud directly, if it gets too hot it's going to be just about impossible to drill without carbide (modify a masonry drill, much cheaper than buying 'correct' one)
 
The drills are carbide and left handed. I am gonna keep it soaking til the bits arrive. looks like it may be saturday.

good freakin god. I mean come on!
 
Personally, l wouldn't get a torch of any kind near it except as a last resort. The whole mother is aluminum, and aluminum warps very easily. The first thing to do is mark the broken off stud with a center punch, before you ever start drilling. You may wish to very carefully smooth the surface with a dremel first to make that easier, use extreme caution not to damage the head if you do. Once you have the punch centered and started, make sure the mark is deep enough that your drill doesn't wander. Use a small drill, it will be easier to hold steady, and when drilling in steel low rpms are better. TapMagic or similar cutting fluid will help to keep the heat down and your bit sharp. The stud is small enough you should only have to use the drill bit specified for the extractor you are using. Most auto parts stores carry extractors, as well as home improvement stores if you don't want to wait for Amazon. When you do start turning the extractor, gently tap it in first with a brass hammer, the use slow and steady pressure - carbide is very hard - and brittle. Impact is a sure way to break one off in the stud, and the. You're really screwed.


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Foolishdreamer said:
Personally, l wouldn't get a torch of any kind near it except as a last resort. The whole mother is aluminum, and aluminum warps very easily. The first thing to do is mark the broken off stud with a center punch, before you ever start drilling. You may wish to very carefully smooth the surface with a dremel first to make that easier, use extreme caution not to damage the head if you do. Once you have the punch centered and started, make sure the mark is deep enough that your drill doesn't wander. Use a small drill, it will be easier to hold steady, and when drilling in steel low rpms are better. TapMagic or similar cutting fluid will help to keep the heat down and your bit sharp. The stud is small enough you should only have to use the drill bit specified for the extractor you are using. Most auto parts stores carry extractors, as well as home improvement stores if you don't want to wait for Amazon. When you do start turning the extractor, gently tap it in first with a brass hammer, the use slow and steady pressure - carbide is very hard - and brittle. Impact is a sure way to break one off in the stud, and the. You're really screwed.


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The torch is just to get it hot, but not red hot. You're not going to warp a head with a small propane torch. It also helps encourage capillary action of the PB Blaster. How do you get the center punch centered when it's broken below the surface of the head? The dremel works when it's above the surface, but not so good below. A dremel wants to run and you don't want to risk nicking the inside of the thread channel. The bit getting hot can actually be good, since it makes the stud expand then it contracts when its cool to allow it to break free.
 
trek97 said:
good freakin god. I mean come on!
I feel ya, man. I got mine running smooth for Meltdown the Wednesday before when the tappet let loose and broke my cam chain. Now its tore completely down waiting for parts to put it back together. 16 days and I'm nervous just the wait for parts will keep me.
 
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