1976 Honda CB360T - The first step is admitting I have a problem build

Just speaking from experience man. Aluminum is really easy to damage with flame. Not saying he shouldn't use it, but to be very careful if he does. And with care the center punch shouldn't be hard to do, it's only 1/8" below the surface, normal for a broken off bolt, l've extracted plenty. Same with dremel - use one of the small pointed stones if there is ridge in the center of the stud preventing punching - but again l said that extreme caution should be used. As far as bits go, it has been my experience that they dull very fast once they get hot, and dull bits break easily, not what you want in an exhaust stud. Like l said these are all lessons l've learned working on ild cars and bikes for years, and working as a technician in a factory - many of the lessons learned the hard way.


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Foolishdreamer said:
Just speaking from experience man. Aluminum is really easy to damage with flame. Not saying he shouldn't use it, but to be very careful if he does. And with care the center punch shouldn't be hard to do, it's only 1/8" below the surface, normal for a broken off bolt, l've extracted plenty. Same with dremel - use one of the small pointed stones if there is ridge in the center of the stud preventing punching - but again l said that extreme caution should be used. As far as bits go, it has been my experience that they dull very fast once they get hot, and dull bits break easily, not what you want in an exhaust stud. Like l said these are all lessons l've learned working on ild cars and bikes for years, and working as a technician in a factory - many of the lessons learned the hard way.


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Different strokes for different folks, my man. I've done it to aluminum and magnesium no problem. I wasn't just guessing a method, it's the way I've done it a hundred times. And what makes you think I don't have similar work experience. ;)
 
Nothing makes me think that. Just telling my experience, not trying to argue. The main thing is giving Trek enough advice that he can get his bike going again, and the more advice and experience we can share with him the better. There is no "one right way" with this, as you said. He'll have to find his own way, but the more info we can share with him, the better it might go. If he's good with a torch, fine. Same with other things, but if not, he should know the risks. That's all I'm saying. You and l have done this many times, and we each have our own technique. Now it's Trek's turn, and he'll have to find his own way too.


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All and any advise is greatly appreciated.

calmness and patience seems key here.
I work w tools on old shit everyday. and have always had pretty decent luck when removing broken bolts.
But this situation feels like worst case. I dont ever remember having one so far under the surface AND in aluminum. In most of my cases dealing w broken bolts is penetrant and hammer and chisel. Almost always seems to work great.
But this scenario just sucks.
And its at an angle and Im wearing bifocals.

Im gonna smooth the end out w the dremel tonight. center punch then get started w a small pilot bit first.

My 8mm tap is missing, so gotta find one of those after work. is the first thing. I got spare studs from the old head...thank goodness.
 
and this probably has alot to do w the popping I had during acceleration on my last ride.
 
Might think about getting those studs out of that other head, never know they may break as well.

Good luck bud, that problem is the reason why I keep spare heads around.
 
Trek, this is the worst thing to happen, patience and lots of PB blaster and beer to calm your nerves and you will get it. After dealing with this a few times on my CM450 I swithed to stainless allen bolts to hold the exaust on, I used a lot of never anti-seize on them to prevent gauling.
 
Oh man Trek, that sucks. I had to order a replacement head for the Interceptor because of the same issue. If you run into a worst case situation, I have a spare head I can ship over to you.
 
I'm just going to throw this out there because it use to happen to me on older EZ-GO golf carts. In my case, I would drill out the bolt and keep stepping up the drill sizes until I reached the threads, then I would be able to just punch out the remaining that was in the threads. Worse case scenario, I would drill larger and retap to a standard size which is just a little bigger than the metric. Might have to drill out the hole in the exhaust joint to accept the larger bolt. Again, just something that I use to do.
 
Worst cb650 ever said:
Oh man Trek, that sucks. I had to order a replacement head for the Interceptor because of the same issue. If you run into a worst case situation, I have a spare head I can ship over to you.
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They do come out but really suck to do. Honda used a stepped stud 8mm in head, 6mm for exhaust clamp, I knew there was another reason VF pissed me off ;D
Trek, put exhaust back on and run motor to get it hot, the head will frequently get over 300f at exhaust port. Spray it up when hot and hope it sucks some release oil into thread
Foolishdreamer, are you talking about water cooled/automotive heads or air cooled motorcycle heads?
 
In my case, my time was more valuable than the $30 for the new head ;D I already had to order the gasket kit to deal with the Leakapaloza that is that bike. I did notice that those studs were stepped, what a huge pain in the ass.
 
No kidding! It came with everything except the cams, and the valves and seats were in good shape as well. New valve stem seals, a little cleanup, and on it went! I need to get back on that horse and finish up with the motor so the bike can go back together. I think I'm going to wait to paint the frame until I know the bike's a runner. There are still too many unknowns with the Interceptor.

I'm still waiting for the new petcock and gas cap seal for the 360, but might see them today. USPS stuff arrives when it arrives...
 
The studs on my exhaust are not stepped. I replaced 2 already.....

CB360 might differ different years?
 
Yep, we have at least 2 discussions going on, not that Trek threadjacked anything ;D
 
LOL, I get fuddled easily....

Is the head the 8mm or 6mm?

If it is 8, i would use a straight, standard 8 mm stud and enlarge the holes on the exhaust flange a little.

Of course, removing the broken one is where the fun is.
 
crazypj said:
Yep, we have at least 2 discussions going on, not that Trek threadjacked anything ;D
Click to expand...

Sorry for the threadjack. Again. and I usually try not to do this. LOL

I will move it to mine. But you guys gotta promise to come check on me.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=27417.msg678746#msg678746
 
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