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Got my new tank in, and although, it was in worse condition than the ebay listing described, I have lined it with POR5 and bondoed it up. Not an amazing job, but the best I have done so far, so I am happy. Primered everything and laid down a metallic base coat. When the spraymax 2k gets in, I will apply the silver specks and clear. Hoping to be up and running by weeks end.
Also thoughts on the gas cap, leaving it the way that it is. I kinda like it.
And I have no idea where to mount the license plate, any ideas would be appreciated.
Thats a good question. As of now, it is a stand alone piece, I may put it on there and if looks out of place, I will just paint it, but I think that with a clear coat and a polish, it would look good.
Thanks I was going to paint the tank and tail to match the fender, but I may just paint tue fender to match the tank. Thoughts between painting the tank or fender?
Got the license plate mounted up. Just reinforced the base of the tail light and mounted it straight to it. Then wired a resistor to a 10mm led and siliconed it into a socket and mounted that on the side. SO close, I can't wait to ride it!
I finished upholstering the seat today. Decided to just make a wood pan and bolt it to the tail. With any luck the clear will be in tomorrow and painting will be done.
I got the new air filters in and with a little bit of starting fluid, it runs! I think it is lean, though cause it doesnt stay running. But at least the engine is ok, carb tuning is a piece of cake.
Well, I rejetted, and she seems to be running now. Kinda hard to start at first, but after it gets warm, seems to run ok. Thinking a carb sync, and mixture screw changes will do it. Hopefully.
HAHaha, Got the carbs tuned perfectly and it runs beautifully. But the rear brake is funny, when I leave it for a day or two, the rear wheel locks up. I can open up the bleed valve and let a bit of brake fluid out, and it opens up, but then it later tightens up again. Bled it several times, no air. Dont know whats happening.
Sounds like a dirty caliper. Fluid/crap builds up under the O-rings in there and they just PUSH the piston out, without letting it come back in. It's most likely the gunk under the piston in there, really easy to do on a single pot caliper. Sounds like that, or if you just installed a brake rebuild kit, you put the o-ring on backwards...some had a directional cut so they could only be installed one way or you will get what is happening.
I am thinking that it is probably the master cylinder rather than the caliper. It didnt do this before I rebuilt the MC and it seems that the line is just staying pressurized as it releases when I open the bleed valve, plus the brake pedal gets stiff, not squishy. Think maybe I didn't do the MC quite right. Makes sense?
Nope, sounds like a caliper "sticking" to me. That's how you know if your caliper is seizing on you while you ride. There should be a "squish" to the lines etc when you pull the lever. Say it starts contact at about 1/2-3/4 way in before you ride it will get farther out as you go . As you ride the bike, the pad rubs on the disc and heat up the caliper, causing the pads to PUSH harder on the disc and making your lever very stiff. You'll notice you have less stopping force and less travel on the brake handle and before you know it, your calipers will seize and bad news ensues. Try pulling the caliper, and pump the brake (making sure fluid is in the master) until the piston pops out. I'll bet you have some nasty stuff behind it. Also remember that what comes out of the caliper as you bleed should be clear to clear-ish yellow, not red/orange or brown or anything of that sort. Good luck and take a picture when you pull the caliper apart...
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