72 CL350 Build - Done!!!! - lots of pics
- Thread starter WNTITAL
- Start date
WNTITAL
Been Around the Block
Re: 72 CL350 Build - updated pics and progress 3/11/12
I polished up a few more parts to get ready for reassembly.
Here is a before of one of the rear wheel spacers
and the after
here are all the parts I did tonight. About 2.5 hours start to finish. I'm really started to not like polishing.
more to come . . .
I polished up a few more parts to get ready for reassembly.
Here is a before of one of the rear wheel spacers
and the after
here are all the parts I did tonight. About 2.5 hours start to finish. I'm really started to not like polishing.
more to come . . .
MILKY
cafe con leche
Re: 72 CL350 Build - updated pics and progress 3/11/12
I'm about to start my build next week... a barnfind sr250 from 84... i've sneakily told the missus i'm building it for her.. so i can spend all the time i need on it.
love your posts mate.. great photos ... neat little fabs too..
props to you and your welding skills your a natural!
MILKY
WNTITAL said:
I'm about to start my build next week... a barnfind sr250 from 84... i've sneakily told the missus i'm building it for her.. so i can spend all the time i need on it.
love your posts mate.. great photos ... neat little fabs too..
props to you and your welding skills your a natural!
MILKY
WNTITAL
Been Around the Block
Re: 72 CL350 Build - updated pics and progress 3/11/12
Sounds like a good little project "for the missus" can't wait to see it.
Thanks again for the kind words, although I don't know if my welding skills indicate that I'm a natural!
More to come soon on my build so keep checking back often.
MILKY said:I'm about to start my build next week... a barnfind sr250 from 84... i've sneakily told the missus i'm building it for her.. so i can spend all the time i need on it.
love your posts mate.. great photos ... neat little fabs too..
props to you and your welding skills your a natural!
MILKY
Sounds like a good little project "for the missus" can't wait to see it.
Thanks again for the kind words, although I don't know if my welding skills indicate that I'm a natural!
More to come soon on my build so keep checking back often.
WNTITAL
Been Around the Block
Re: 72 CL350 Build - updated pics and progress 3/11/12
Before I assembled the rear hub I wanted to make sure the powder coated rear sprocket would fit. Here it is test fit:
and of course you can't assembly the rear hub retainer without this little gem. Worth the $20!
Now just waiting on the tires to get here so I can lace the wheels and mount the tires. Once I get that completed I can get it into a rolling chassis. More to come . . . .
Before I assembled the rear hub I wanted to make sure the powder coated rear sprocket would fit. Here it is test fit:
and of course you can't assembly the rear hub retainer without this little gem. Worth the $20!
Now just waiting on the tires to get here so I can lace the wheels and mount the tires. Once I get that completed I can get it into a rolling chassis. More to come . . . .
WNTITAL
Been Around the Block
Re: 72 CL350 Build - updated pics and progress 3/18/12
Here is my progress for today. Installed new bearings and seals. Then laced the wheel. It wasn't to hard after some thought. I also used the spare bike I have as a model. I'm glad I had an extra bike around.
Once I find the front wheel spacer I can install the front wheel bearings and seals. I can't believe I misplaced it. I labled every bag and you would have thought I put them in with the wheel bearings and seals but no. Now I'm on the hunt for it somewhere in the garage. If I can't find it I'm going to canabalize the other bike I have so I can keep moving forward.
More to come. . .
Here is my progress for today. Installed new bearings and seals. Then laced the wheel. It wasn't to hard after some thought. I also used the spare bike I have as a model. I'm glad I had an extra bike around.
Once I find the front wheel spacer I can install the front wheel bearings and seals. I can't believe I misplaced it. I labled every bag and you would have thought I put them in with the wheel bearings and seals but no. Now I'm on the hunt for it somewhere in the garage. If I can't find it I'm going to canabalize the other bike I have so I can keep moving forward.
More to come. . .
WNTITAL
Been Around the Block
Re: 72 CL350 Build - updated pics and progress 3/18/12
The short answer is I bought a kit from Eastwood. Here is the link to the kit I used:http://www.eastwood.com/buff-kit-stainless-aluminum-brass-steel-6-inch.html
My process was pretty simple. If any of the parts had deep scratches then I would use 150 grit wet/dry sandpaper and work my way to 320 then 600 then 800 then 1000 using wd40 as my lubricant. If a part wasn't so bad I would start with 600 and work up from there. I would always use a good amount of WD40 when sanding and I wiped the part off often to see my progress. I also used a soft sanding block to give me uniform pressure and to fit contours.
Once the part was all sanded I would wash it in the utility sink with soap and water. Then I wiped the part down with rubbing alcohol. I know this sounds weird but you need to get all the contaminants off the part before you polish. Once I had all that done it was time to polish.
I started with the spiral wheel and the emery compound. Don't put a ton of the compound on as you will gum up the part. After you have applied it to the wheel then start with your part. Also, make sure you use new gloves for each compount or do what I did and use rubber gloves. I started with light pressure and worked my way around the part going in one direction. Once the whole part was done and I was happy with it. It's time to wash the part again. You need to remove all the emery compound before you move onto the white rouge. Seems time consuming, and it is, but worth it.
Then repeat the process with the white rouge on the loose buff wheel. Contrats you have just polished your parts.
Couple of notes. Don't let the part get to hot. Work around the part or switch parts to help keep them cool. It's super messy. I wore a resporator and glasses but you may want to wear a full face sheild. Dust is going to go everywhere and your buffer will get hot. Also, rake the wheels every so often so they don't gum up.
As you said attention to detail is the key. I don't know if my attention to detail was the key just wanting to make it look good was my main obsession.
I hope this helps you out a little. Let me know if you have any other questions.
DashGordan said:
The short answer is I bought a kit from Eastwood. Here is the link to the kit I used:http://www.eastwood.com/buff-kit-stainless-aluminum-brass-steel-6-inch.html
My process was pretty simple. If any of the parts had deep scratches then I would use 150 grit wet/dry sandpaper and work my way to 320 then 600 then 800 then 1000 using wd40 as my lubricant. If a part wasn't so bad I would start with 600 and work up from there. I would always use a good amount of WD40 when sanding and I wiped the part off often to see my progress. I also used a soft sanding block to give me uniform pressure and to fit contours.
Once the part was all sanded I would wash it in the utility sink with soap and water. Then I wiped the part down with rubbing alcohol. I know this sounds weird but you need to get all the contaminants off the part before you polish. Once I had all that done it was time to polish.
I started with the spiral wheel and the emery compound. Don't put a ton of the compound on as you will gum up the part. After you have applied it to the wheel then start with your part. Also, make sure you use new gloves for each compount or do what I did and use rubber gloves. I started with light pressure and worked my way around the part going in one direction. Once the whole part was done and I was happy with it. It's time to wash the part again. You need to remove all the emery compound before you move onto the white rouge. Seems time consuming, and it is, but worth it.
Then repeat the process with the white rouge on the loose buff wheel. Contrats you have just polished your parts.
Couple of notes. Don't let the part get to hot. Work around the part or switch parts to help keep them cool. It's super messy. I wore a resporator and glasses but you may want to wear a full face sheild. Dust is going to go everywhere and your buffer will get hot. Also, rake the wheels every so often so they don't gum up.
As you said attention to detail is the key. I don't know if my attention to detail was the key just wanting to make it look good was my main obsession.
I hope this helps you out a little. Let me know if you have any other questions.
WNTITAL
Been Around the Block
Re: 72 CL350 Build - updated pics and progress 3/18/12
Got a little work done today. Got the front wheel bearings and seals installed. I also installed the speedo gear along with a new seal. Then laced it up. I also installed the front brakes and levers to the front hub. Here are some pics:
Here is what I'll use to true them up. Simple but should work just fine.
I should be able to finish up the trueing for both wheels tomorrow. Then on to the assembly of the forks to the triple trees and then once the rubber arrives I should be able to get it into a rolling chassis. More to come . . .
Got a little work done today. Got the front wheel bearings and seals installed. I also installed the speedo gear along with a new seal. Then laced it up. I also installed the front brakes and levers to the front hub. Here are some pics:
Here is what I'll use to true them up. Simple but should work just fine.
I should be able to finish up the trueing for both wheels tomorrow. Then on to the assembly of the forks to the triple trees and then once the rubber arrives I should be able to get it into a rolling chassis. More to come . . .
