'73 CB250 - Doing it right this time round.

lpooking good the fairing will fine once you get it mounted right from side view the line at the join of screen should be plumb lrevel and those bars are too low to be safe anywhere but a racetrack , your life will be in danger in traffic with bars silly low like that
you will be sitting up trying to see over cars and doing that will have your neck in pain from tilting head back and your elbows will be locked straight giving you virtually zero control needed in an avoidance situation

and yes the splash guard will defo be taken out by the tire i already told you that didn't i ?
 
neevo said:
Don't bother unless you can get some anodised Alu bolts. The black steel ones rust in an afternoon. Useless for a bike build and I've since replaced all mine for stainless.

Thanks for the info neevo, guess i'll just use stainless then!

jpmobius said:
Nylon bolts are good for the windscreen - they will not crack the paint or gelcoat. For the actual mounts, a rubber grommet with a steel or aluminum sleeve will protect the fairing and last indefinitely. I've mounted quite a few race fairings on street bikes, and it is a good idea to not crunch down on the glass with fasteners. Not too important on a race bike, but for a daily driver you need to plan farther ahead if the appearance is important to you.

That's a great looking fairing, but it looks like it aims "up" a bit. Is the headlight aim independent of the fairing orientation?

The fairing is just resting on the frame at the minute, without any brackets. Once mounted it will be level. The fairing is a cheap ABS unit, so no real problems tightening fasteners down onto it compared to GRP.

xb33bsa said:
lpooking good the fairing will fine once you get it mounted right from side view the line at the join of screen should be plumb lrevel and those bars are too low to be safe anywhere but a racetrack , your life will be in danger in traffic with bars silly low like that
you will be sitting up trying to see over cars and doing that will have your neck in pain from tilting head back and your elbows will be locked straight giving you virtually zero control needed in an avoidance situation

and yes the splash guard will defo be taken out by the tire i already told you that didn't i ?

Yep, the fairing will be made more level once actually mounted, rather than resting on the frame. The bars do not seem too low, as they are just under the top tree. Probably only around 3 inches lower than a pair of superbike bars. I know that small measurements like that make a big difference on machines like motorcycles, but the clip-ons cannot be any higher.

No need to worry about neck pain etc as i'm used to being in hunched positions on my race bike. NOT an excuse, but just a point. In fact, this bike is comfier than my race bike to me.

Splash guard will be rectified and is an easy fix, but will be sorted when the rest has been assembled and is one of the last things to do on my list.
 
Very, very tastefully done. I'm really liking the small fairing on this style of bike. Top work.
 
Started work on the lower mount for the fairing. I made a steel bracket which will bolt on to the lower yoke, and another which mounts to the fairing. Then gonna bend some solid steel bar up and weld it to both brackets. Should get hold of that soon so I can crack on with it.

Going to use the same tubing for the top fairing mount, which will run inside the screen perimeter, and will mount either onto the top yoke bolts, or the gauge mounts which are attached to the yoke themselves.

I got the headlight mounted in the fairing today, but annoyingly, the mount holes aren't symmetrical! :mad: Note - measure twice cut once works best in a WELL LIT garage, so you don't confuse dust/crap/something as your mark for drilling! :-[
Its only out by about 4mm, but it is noticeable. Ahh well, I may try and remedy it or I may just leave it and see how bad it looks once mounted. ::)

Also started making up some small spacers for my rear indicators as I need them to be further outboard as they are obstructed by my seat. Will just weld a bit of tubing to the mounting bolt, so that can be attached, and then will weld a washer and nut onto the tube so that I can thread the indicator into the spacer. The most difficult part will be drilling through the frame mounting bolt so I can run the wiring through but that should be ok.

Need to play around with indicator mounting on the fairing too. Not really any 'flat' surface for me to mount off where they will be facing forward as they should. Maybe off one of the screen mounting bolts?

Maybe not there, in the pictures it does look a bit like Shrek....
 

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Wiring loom is 90% complete. Just need to wire the switches and indicators in, wrap and heat shrink it.

I have had the bike up and running previously, but it was on a temporary loom and much bulkier than I had intended. This one is much tidier.
 
Always waiting on parts: This time, connectors and heat shrink to finish up my loom.

In the mean time....
 

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Cheers guys. Wish I had a steadier hand for when I was applying it though, doesn't look too bad but definitely not perfect.
 
deviant said:
Wow. British carpet looks an awful lot like American carpet.

Yep, but we lay it in the other direction because our stairs go down not up.
It's a British thing.
 
Progress has stalled on the bike for a minute. The only things left are to finish the wiring, sort the rear set linkages, fabricate the fairing mounts...then paint. But I have been distracted recently as I picked up a cheap SV650s.

Total electrical failure led to it being sold, which I sorted with a bit of solder and heatshrink. Paint was shite too, so £20 on paint and £10 on stickers and it's a little quick turnaround...all in for less than £630. :)

Will crack on with the CB once I get the zook all finalised and on the road.
 

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