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I ended up with a bit of a cold this weekend, so i didn't get much done... I did manage to mount the tail light bracket and get the tail light attached... (Zip ties will go but I have them there so that the adhesive will take hold well.)
there's not much need to pull wires through all 1 or 2" of bars. Just wire them outside like 99% of bikes. It's so short as to be almost invisible anyway.
there's not much need to pull wires through all 1 or 2" of bars. Just wire them outside like 99% of bikes. It's so short as to be almost invisible anyway.
It might go against my nature though as I like things like that to be clean as a bean... I'm using the stock controls, which were routed through the bars... so it might even be easier to go through than to modify the controls to route externally.
Okay, so mounting the controls and routing the wires through the bars was a snap... I just went out the bar ends and drilled out the end plugs and reinstalled them. Very happy... ( yes I still need to clean up the control housings... And the heat shrink is not shrunk.)
If you don't have the tool to crimp the pins and sockets, don't spend $250 on the tool made by Deutsch. Pick up a used DMC AF8 with a TH1A positioner from Ebay. These are aerospace tools and are extremely well made. I picked up mine for $100. It will crimp the solid type pins and sockets used on the DT, DTM, and DTP series of connectors. Personally I only use the solid type pins and sockets, as they are much more robust.
Also, the solid pins used by Deutsch are the same as used in several of their mil-spec connectors and can often be found for fairly cheap on Ebay. The mil-spec numbers are as follows:
for DTM connectors - 20 AWG (most commonly used for our applications)
male: m39029/4-110
female: m39029/5-115
for DT connectors - 16-18 AWG
male: m39029/4-111
female: m39029/5-116
for DTP connectors - 12 AWG
male: m39029/4-113
female: m39029/5-118
Good luck with the build... It's looking great so far.
If you don't have the tool to crimp the pins and sockets, don't spend $250 on the tool made by Deutsch. Pick up a used DMC AF8 with a TH1A positioner from Ebay.
Here's a site I found that sells DTM connectors for fairly cheap.
Good luck with the build... It's looking great so far.
I already have a proper crimp tool... (not Areospace grade but works far better than a $25 tool should)
I get my connectors from WireCare http://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connectors-main.asp You can add a connector+pins+wedges+boots+plugs all as an item in the shopping cart. Prices are okay enough not to bother looking around. I only needed two for this bike... one for ignition and one for the alternator. Everything else is bullet and spade. (A few taps too.)
I'm going to try to get the wiring finished this week and get my nieghbor to hlep me lift the motor into the frame this weekend. Then work toward getting the tank and seat ready for paint.... I really would like to get this little guy done before the season is out... it can get cold in the midwest here pretty darned quick... end of Oct mid Nov can start getting iffy.
Mmmm box from DCC was waiting on me when I got home today... Got my new grips installed... look great... but no way can I plan to run mirrors on those bar ends... I'll have to decide if I'm gonna use bar end mirrors or use stock mirror location... I'll have to be sure to get proper bar end mounts i I go with bar end mirrors.
Got my shiny new Mac 2:1 exhaust too... that should look great and help provide good performance, and sound great without pissing the nieghbors off.
I'm taking the day off tomorrow and I am going to try to get the wiring complete. Going to set the tappets and install the new points and do a static timing set this weekend assuing all goes will with the wiring. I scheduled time at my buddy Gary's shop for next weekend to shoot my tins... Ordred my supplies today... she's gonna get shot with House of Kolor Lime Gold Shimerin base... and HOK clear.
I took the day off today and spent some time on the wiring... annoying... I couldn't find a good drawing that accurately represented the hand control color codes I have... I think I have it sorted out and have an attack plan. Not sure why honda did some things the way they did... But I made headway and while taking a break from wiring. I mounted the engine back in it's cradle.
Got the wiring harness all buttoned up, still have a little clean up work on the tray end to do. I did not do a simplified wiring, I pretty well recreated the factory wiring. Everything seems to work except the headlight on/off switch... Headlight is always on... Which is standard fare for a modern bike. But the switch is there, so it needs to be functional if at all possible. Need to open the right hand control up and see if there's something up with the switch that can be addressed.
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