'74 CL360 troubleshooting

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

Also, Rich Ard, you are the patron saint of people like me. So, so helpful. Thanks a ton!

 

[djelliott]

Are you leaking fuel from the overflows? Check your float height. I believe it should be 22mm but you'll want to verify that.

 

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

Are you leaking fuel from the overflows? Check your float height. I believe it should be 22mm but you'll want to verify that.

Noted. We will check that out, as well.

 

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

Are you leaking fuel from the overflows? Check your float height. I believe it should be 22mm but you'll want to verify that.

Wait, this would cause fuel to leak onto the ground and be pretty noticeable, right?

 

[frogman]

I will look into this. How do I begin to check it out?

OK, one side running or not is easy. Get the bike running enough to heat up the headers. Get a spray bottle or steal the kids squirt gun, fill with water and spray the headers just a bit. If the water boils away right off, that side is running. IF the water sorta hangs out or you can touch that side with wet fingers and not burn yourself that side ISN'T running. Figuring out why can be many things from no fuel to no spark to no compression.

Do you have a manual? If not there are a few places you can download the HONDA SHOP manual, like HERE or HERE Second is a link, let the manual load and then click download. If you have a Clymer, do yourself a favor and toss it in the trash. They are junk.

I suggest going through the entire tune up procedure, There's lots of good info in that manual and it will help you get things working correctly or at least figure out why things aren't.

 

[Rich Ard]

I advise buying an infrared thermometer. You can point it at each header and see how hot they are. Also you will suddenly know exactly how warm everything around you is because they're fun to play with.

 

[frogman]

I advise buying an infrared thermometer. You can point it at each header and see how hot Rey are. Also you will suddenly know exactly how warm everything around you is because they're fun to play with.

Hahahaha, I knew wasn't the only one that did that. 8) Is that Beer REALLY cold or just cold?

 

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

OK, one side running or not is easy. Get the bike running enough to heat up the headers. Get a spray bottle or steal the kids squirt gun, fill with water and spray the headers just a bit. If the water boils away right off, that side is running. IF the water sorta hangs out or you can touch that side with wet fingers and not burn yourself that side ISN'T running. Figuring out why can be many things from no fuel to no spark to no compression.

Do you have a manual? If not there are a few places you can download the HONDA SHOP manual, like HERE or HERE Second is a link, let the manual load and then click download. If you have a Clymer, do yourself a favor and toss it in the trash. They are junk.

I suggest going through the entire tune up procedure, There's lots of good info in that manual and it will help you get things working correctly or at least figure out why things aren't.

Got a major malware warning on that first link...

 

[frogman]

Probably because its Mediafire, I just checked again at it works fine. Some anti virus scanners are pretty dumb, There's a bunch of good stuff with that one too I had forgotten about.

 

[Rich Ard]

Frogman - do you have a link to sprint66's carb float tool made from a credit card? I'm on mobile and can't find it.

 

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

Probably because its Mediafire, I just checked again at it works fine. Some anti virus scanners are pretty dumb, There's a bunch of good stuff with that one too I had forgotten about.

The second link worked well. Getting it printed out at the copy shop later on.

The tune up process is basically the section called "Inspection and Adjustment," right?

 

[frogman]

Frogman - do you have a link to sprint66's carb float tool made from a credit card? I'm on mobile and can't find it.

I did a quick search through twins and never found it, I think that was for a 450 anyway. I'll have to look a little harder on a better PC.

The second link worked well. Getting it printed out at the copy shop later on.

The tune up process is basically the section called "Inspection and Adjustment," right?

You got it.

 

[Rich Ard]

It was for a 450, beg pardon

 

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

Hopefully getting some hands-on time tomorrow. I will keep you gents in the loop. Thanks for the wisdom so far.

 

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

Field report: bike would not idle as well as it did the other day. 30-45 seconds, max, and then it would die.

Also, the air from the bottom (right side) pipe is not hot, but there is air coming out. Air from other pipe is warm.

It's making a puffing/choking sound and every time it does this, the carbs jiggle/jump a bit. Sometimes a small puff of smoke from the engine side of the carb accompanies this.

Thoughts?

 

[djelliott]

3 things I can think of off hand would be:

Valves need adjusted.

Intake leak.

Timing/points not right.

One last thing could be air/fuel mix isn't right or carbs aren't synced.

 

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

3 things I can think of off hand would be:

Valves need adjusted.

Intake leak.

Timing/points not right.

One last thing could be air/fuel mix isn't right or carbs aren't synced.

Intake leak like the airbox-carb-engine boot issue I had earlier?

Will check valves and timing tomorrow when it goes to the doctor.

 

[djelliott]

The rubber boots from the carbs to the engine.

 

[john.leach1991@gmail.com]

The rubber boots from the carbs to the engine.

Yep, those. They seem to be snug now. Still popping and puffing, though.

 

[djelliott]

Get the bike running and spray some ether or carb cleaner at them. If it makes the motor rise in rpms you have a leak. Even a small rise means something.