'74 CL360 troubleshooting

Got the valves done. Went through the tune up process. Carbs are synced. Everything should be good, but the problem persists. There's some oil leaking from the head gasket and when we sprayed some starter fluid, it did liven up a bit. Looking like new gasket is in order... :(
 
More updates: after repeating the starter fluid trick, I'm rethinking my hypothesis. It doesn't seem to affect the rpm at all. Not saying that I don't still need a gasket, though.

The carb seems to periodically gasp for air and then cough it back, with a little puff of smoke.

After checking valves, carbs, points, it still won't go beyond 50mph, totally open on the throttle.

We are stumped.
 
Sounds very much like an ignition/timing problem. the cliff notes version: spark plugs should have nice fat blue spark from both sides? If so Re-time. If not, trouble shoot the ignition. The Giant Robot Co can walk you through. Once done, get timing spot on. Once the timing and ignition are spot on move to carbs
 
troybilt said:
Sounds very much like an ignition/timing problem. the cliff notes version: spark plugs should have nice fat blue spark from both sides? If so Re-time. If not, trouble shoot the ignition. The Giant Robot Co can walk you through. Once done, get timing spot on. Once the timing and ignition are spot on move to carbs
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Yep. Both sides have spark.

I will check out the timing section of the manual.
 
Alright. I think it may be an electrical problem...

First two miles on a fresh battery and it goes like a bat outta hell. I stop to get gas, and then head back home, and it's back to the same old problems; no thrust and hardly goes over 50mph.

Timing, etc, was done on Saturday. Thoughts?
 
Take a volt meter the next time you go ridding and test battery voltage after a few miles. IF you are keeping rev's above 2500-3000 the system should be charging at its max and voltage should go UP. If it is under 12.5 the system is not charging, at rest after a few miles of ridding the battery should read over 13 volts.

360's run like shit if the batteries are shot or the bike is not charging.
 
frogman said:
Take a volt meter the next time you go ridding and test battery voltage after a few miles. IF you are keeping rev's above 2500-3000 the system should be charging at its max and voltage should go UP. If it is under 12.5 the system is not charging, at rest after a few miles of ridding the battery should read over 13 volts.

360's run like shit if the batteries are shot or the bike is not charging.
Click to expand...

Also, this would make sense with some of my other observations. It stays more "alive" at higher RPM.
 
I'll forgive me I'm rollin down the road and reading at the same time but have you changed any of the charging components to anything new or are you still running the old stuff that came with the bike originally?

Staters tend to stay in good condition so long as none of the wires get crossed. Rectifiers and regulators tend to either burn out or become so corroded that they no longer do their job until there's enough current created at higher RPM's to actually make them work.

360's also have two charging circuits, one that is on all the time (the yellow circuit), and one that is turned on by the headlight (white). If you were only running the lower wattage charging circut and not both on at the same time you are getting about a third of a charge compared to what you should be. If your lights are ON battery may last about 10-15 minutes.

Side note, god I love my Samsung and speech to text.
 
Sonier sells a replacement unit on his website that supposedly works well, not tried it myself. Website on the front page of the forums Spark Moto.
 
Frogman has some very good advice. Try to find the problem first though before starting to swap stuff out. Take the tester and run through the charging system. it's very simple to do. Once you are done with that, test the ignition system. A coil that's getting hot and breaking down will do what you are describing as well. Keep in mind its easy to have multiple problems at the same time all with the same symptoms. Also, just knowing your battery voltage before, during and after a ride will help point you in the right direction. The meter will help you troubleshoot your problem(s).
 
Meter needs to have a DC voltage setting, just pop the seat up and touch red to POS and black to NEG on the battery for the tests. I would do all tests with the bike OFF, lights off, ignition OFF. That way there are no other drains to the battery when you test it.
 
frogman said:
Meter needs to have a DC voltage setting, just pop the seat up and touch red to POS and black to NEG on the battery for the tests. I would do all tests with the bike OFF, lights off, ignition OFF. That way there are no other drains to the battery when you test it.
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Alright. I'm going to hit it with the meter tonight. Any other tidbits of advice or things to look for while I'm at it?
 
Alright, took it for a short spin with the meter. Read 12.66V before the ride, and 12.55 after 2 miles, and 12.45 at 4 miles.

It had good thrust right at first, but then wouldn't top 50mph even at full throttle.
 
Well it looks like your battery is low to begin with. When you bought the battery I'm wondering if it was placed on a trickle charger before being put into service or was it filled and tossed on the bike?

Since its starting out low its hard to tell what's going on. Its definitely not being chargeable while you ride however, a 360 charging system won't make up for an already low battery. I would toss the battery on a charger and see what it Comes up to. Then maybe test the before during and after again with a full battery. If you get the same results after starting out with a full battery, I would move onto checking the stator (I belive the white and pink wires but I'm not 100%) then the rectifier and regulator.
 
The battery was filled and then charged overnight and through the early afternoon the next day. It ran much better for the first few miles on that brand new battery, then back to the same issues.

The stator looked to be in good condition. I've ordered a new rectifier unit from Sonreir. I hope that helps me sort out my issues. I'm mystified and I want to get riding this damn thing!

Any other thoughts/advice are still greatly appreciated.
 
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