'76 cb360 cafe:ROUND 2...third times a charm!

[checko]

Engine painted. Valves adjusted. Pc'd bits installed with new gaskets. Engine installed. Tank wet sanded and cleared. Hydro clutch conversion is set up.

Things left (off the top of my head)
Finish exhaust/wrap
Mount led tail light strip
Upholster seat
Make wiring harness
Make rotor adapter
Front brake line
Rear brake linkage/stay
Paint headlight
Plugs/oil/fine tune

 

[focusinprogress]

I snapped some pics of progress last night. tank got wetsanded and cleared, motor got a bunch of covers swapped out for powdercoated variants, we wrestled the motor into the roller, mocked up the tank, and installed the hydro clutch conversion.

fresh paint on the engine

frame prepped for engine install

some powdercoated covers installed

hydro clutch mech

tank with clear (under fluorescent)

I tried a color correction, this is pretty close to what it actually looks like in person

tossed the tank on the bike

halogen light pics

 

[crazypj]

I'm glad you did beige paint, I was planning on doing similar on my XS650. (not using 'copper metallic though) 8)
You should run clutch line 'outside' of carbs, it will probably get too hot if between them (then fluid boils and it stops working )

 

[checko]

I'm glad you did beige paint, I was planning on doing similar on my XS650. (not using 'copper metallic though) 8)
You should run clutch line 'outside' of carbs, it will probably get too hot if between them (then fluid boils and it stops working )

Lol. True on the clutch line, I'll see about re routing it if the line is long enough. Thanks!

 

[Rene Holsebro]

What did you do with the clutch? How is it made

 

[checko]

It's just pit bike hydro clutch actuator. Can find em on ebay

 

[checko]

Started making wiring today. Key, headlight switch, headlight and tail light, coils and charging system components are wired. Still have to hook up the brake switches and horn, loom and route it all.

Aso sanded the tank badges, just the raised parts of the letters back to a bare finish. And mounted the led tail light strip.

 

[checko]

.

 

[crazypj]

Rotate your pictures before posting and caption them so we really know what we are looking at (instead of guessing)
What silencer is that?

 

[ridesolo]

What silencer is that?

Yeah, That's really a nice size to go w/ the bike.

 

[checko]

Rotate your pictures before posting and caption them so we really know what we are looking at (instead of guessing)
What silencer is that?

Sorry for the sideways pics.

The can is a fmf shorty from I think a ktm 65.

Headlight is painted and installed. Exhaust is test fit for the first time on the bike. It was built on a spare motor in a portion of a old frame it was bolted to. Wiring is done and have to be cleaned up. Exhaust needs grinding/heat paint/wrap. set tank on with emblem just to get an over all look.

 

[crazypj]

KTM65?
Is that a two stroke?
Should be pretty quiet which is always a good thing in my opinion
It's a PITA getting pulled over for loud exhaust, particularly when guy passing on HD is twice as loud

 

[checko]

KTM65?
Is that a two stroke?
Should be pretty quiet which is always a good thing in my opinion
It's a PITA getting pulled over for loud exhaust, particularly when guy passing on HD is twice as loud

Yes the ktm sx65 is a two stroke I'm not too worried about loud exhausts. I ride a 04 636 with a GYTR CF shorty, and a 05 zx10 which is loud AF. no problems getting pulled over ever

 

[checko]

On a note of actual work on the bike. It's fully wired, and loomed. I made a little box out of 1/8" aluminum to hold reg/rec and fuses. Programmed it in ProFab, punched it and bent it on the press break. There are bolts that come thru the seat pan (welded the heads to the seat pan) and bolts up under. Gonna mount a plate off the back of it too.

Focusinprogress and myself finished turning the rotor adapter and test fit it. Still need to drill/tap for bolts from rotor to adapter. And drill the holes for thru bolts for adapter to wheel.

 

[checko]

Drilled/tapped the holes to bolt the rotor to the adapter.

 

[focusinprogress]

figured I'd contribute some pics I've taken recently along the way

Humble beginnings of the rotor adapter:

the puck was too big for my lathe chuck, so we started my using a hole-saw to cut a 2" bore in the middle.

Moved it over to the lathe an started opening the bore to match the CB500t front wheel

After many repeated removal-testfit-remount-cut-repeat cycles until we had just the right fit, here's the rotor on the nearly-finished puck

We're debating taking the time to cut the adapter back to only having "tabs" where the rotor mounts instead of being a giant circle all the way around as it is already a pretty bulky looking part.....

but, here's some pics of the tank and emblem mocked up and the exhaust mocked up on a complete bike for the first time

 

[checko]

My second time using the lathe by myself (well little help from Focusinprogress) made me a tach delete plug. Took some rough measurements of where the cable would go, couldn't find a cable to measure. Don't think it turned out half bad. Didn't quite get the knurling tool quite right tho. :shrug:

 

[Trevor May]

My second time using the lathe by myself (well little help from Focusinprogress) made me a tach delete plug. Took some rough measurements of where the cable would go, couldn't find a cable to measure. Don't think it turned out half bad. Didn't quite get the knurling tool quite right tho. :shrug:

Would you consider making more and selling them? I'll take one.

 

[crazypj]

FYI, It's better when using hole saw on alloy if you use it to mark circumference then drill a couple of through holes with 1/8" drill.
Chip clearance makes drilling much easier particulaly if your drilling a deep hole
If your making tach plugs, use a profile tool for the 'O' ring and locking screw.
I've made a couple of different styles, this one if the drive worm is removed

and this type to just slip in.

I also make them with various top angles (angles vary because I dod them one at a time on mini lathe

 

[Trevor May]

FYI, It's better when using hole saw on alloy if you use it to mark circumference then drill a couple of through holes with 1/8" drill.
Chip clearance makes drilling much easier particulaly if your drilling a deep hole
If your making tach plugs, use a profile tool for the 'O' ring and locking screw.
I've made a couple of different styles, this one if the drive worm is removed

and this type to just slip in.

I also make them with various top angles (angles vary because I dod them one at a time on mini lathe

I should have bought one of those when I bought carb balancing inserts.