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Till the full mark on the dipstick ;D I think with oil and filter change on my bike with oil cooler it is around 3 litres? I have the manual at home and can get the actual amount from it tonight.
Ya I just don't want to buy too little or too much. One more question for y'all: do you think it would be alright if I used Valvoline Maxlife in those same weights?
depends on if there is any friction modifiers. I have a case of Valvoline ATV oil I am using in the GL. My father in law got it through work for cost. It seems to be a good oil. Max life may have additives that will frig with your wet clutch, read the label or check online to find out. If it doesn't it should be just fine.
Ah yes. I was going to buy it for the detergents and extra lubricants. God knows how long it's been since this bike has ran. Well then, I will probably just go with the Rotela15W40 for it's first breath of air. I'll look more into what oils I can and can't use.
I think you need the pointed corners of the bolts, but maybe nuts on a long piece of rope and chain would do. I would also use alot more nuts and or bolts. I think like 50+. I still think this would be a great way to handle a Rusty Virgin (Non-Sealed) Tank. You just have the issue of how to break down or loosen the sealer. Is there any flakes of it at all that have come off in the muck?
Ya, I'm afraid the BBs were just acting like polishing stones or something. I'll probably tie a BUNCH of nuts and bolts together, that way I can grab one and pull the rest out instead of sitting there and shaking the thing like a crazy man trying to get all the pieces to fall out.
I need something that will dissolve what ever that sealer is in there.
I was looking more for something I can buy at the local store, just to save money and time.
And I can't decide what to use. What do y'all think I should try in the tank to clean/remove the old sealer (as much as possible). I don't think there is too much rust inside the tank, just that old sealer that is separating from the top of the tank).
I finally got around to reading that thread. They used something called ZEP from home depot that was some sort of calcium lime and rust remover. So I'm just going to pick up some CLR from work since home depot is out of my way. I'm also going to use a bunch of old wheel weights that I took from work also.
:-X BAD NEWS. The gears in the rostisserie motor are too weak and a couple of teeth broke off resulting in it just going back and forth, charing one side....
EDIT: more bad news. The effing weights wont come out. Terrible idea. Oh well, I guess that's how you learn. I'm now going to buy a tank in better condition or make one out of fiberglass or have one off a different model modified to fit the 400 backbone.
Alright I need some help figuring out why I'm not getting spark. Is there a way to take a multimeter to the ignition coil. What are the obvious things to check for that I'm not thinking of. The manual sucks at explaing how to test the electrical system.
I'm guessing that's bad... Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but green=ground? I'm trying to look for alternative replacements other than the OEM one.
I get readings on all wires coming from the CDI.
More bad news, on one carb (havn't checked the other) the brass overflow tube has a crack in it. Not sure how I'm going to fix this. It's hard finding a carbs for this model.
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