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Yes. Good Info. No I did not troweled the sealant. I was very careful to apply a light thin later. A few of my mechanic buddies gave me a heads-up when applying sealant. Recommended I use a very thin layer for the very reasons you mentioned. What squeezed out was very minimal. Not stringy at all, not drippy. If you look at the pics above you can see the squish where the stator/points is suppose to go. The rest I gently scrapped off after it sealed.
Not to bust your balls but if you look at a completely stock motor that has never been split they don't trim the excess off... Every KZ motor I have ever seen has it squished out uneven, and if you apply thin then it will not look out of place. I have done a few of these over the years and I apply the 3Bond with a bare finger then when mated don't touch it at all... I think that is part of the charm and look of these motors, you can tell they are put together by hand and not a robot.
Not to bust your balls but if you look at a completely stock motor that has never been split they don't trim the excess off... Every KZ motor I have ever seen has it squished out uneven, and if you apply thin then it will not look out of place. I have done a few of these over the years and I apply the 3Bond with a bare finger then when mated don't touch it at all... I think that is part of the charm and look of these motors, you can tell they are put together by hand and not a robot.
Yeah, the squish i very minimal. I just clean up a few small areas. I got the primary drive in, oil pump, and sealed up the bottom this weekend. Making good progress thus far.
I recommend filling the oil pump up with fresh oil prior to installing the oil pan, that way it won't suck air upon first start. Looks like a pretty clean build, you should be proud of that... too many guys rush this sort of thing.
You also may want to cobble up a 0-100 oil pressure gauge off of the main oil galley plug under the points cover - Shows you that everything is working properly in the first few minutes, if oil is pumping to the end of that plug then most likely its getting to the cams. Too bad there are no takeoff plugs on the head - That would be the best place to take a oil pressure readings.
Too late for this step. I plan to kick it with the valve cover off and plugs out before I start it. This low pressure, low resistance prime should hopefully clear things up. Once it hits the head I'll be certain that all the passages are working correctly. Then I'll put plugs back in and cover on before firing her up.
Buttoned up the bottom sump. Delayed on the clutch hub. Had to order a new used one and main lock but due to some previous damage. Also got the EBC Clutch hub wrench. Gotta use the right tool for the job.
Both the Mission Cover and Clutch side are buttoned up. Took engine off stand and installed Wiseco 700cc pistons. Made a connecting rod holder out of cardboard. Pistons fit nicely. Great bore job by PowerSeal USA.
By the way, this video was very helpful to install the nasty piston ring circlips. glad i found it before i buggered shit up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpP6WXxLmXI
Thanks. I got them done last year. If I remember correctly it was $75 a cylinder, so $300. I don't know if that's cheap or pricey but they came highly recommended from a friend. I toured their shop. These guys had hundreds of cylinder they were boring. It's all they do and have a pretty good setup.
Welp, I goofed. Nothing major but I ended up using the standard OEM head gasket instead of the Wiseco 64mm bore gasket. I saw the gasket when I was cleaning up and was like...SON OF A BITCH!
Called Wiseco to see if I could get away with OEM gasket....."nope".
Time do this all over again next week. So annoying.
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